What causes these white marks in dev ?

[grahamc]

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Hello. 

New home developer here  

Can someone please let me know what caused the white marks on this frame, and how I can avoid ? 
 

actually it was the first of a roll and the rest of the roll was not affected.  The rest of the roll was also nicely developed and not grey like this one 

 

thanks in advance 

Graham 

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Edited April 12, 2022 by grahamc

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[Siriusone59]

It looks to me like maybe the film was not correctly placed on the spool.  Part of the film was touching the next layer and not allowing the developer to flow between layers it as it should.  A common problem when using stainless reels and parts of the film gets out of track.  It happens to all of us before we really get the hang of loading film on a spool in a changing bag.  Hopefully it only affected a few frames.

[grahamc]

Thanks @Siriusone59.  Yes, luckily only this frame 

The other problem I'm having with steel reels is that the edges of the negative sometimes get creased upwards and I don't realise until I finish developing as it's not obvious when winding the roll onto the reel .  It has only happened a couple of times but concerning because I never feel it happen 

I obviously have some practice to do but generally the steel reels do load very easily (Hewes reels) 

[TomB_tx]

Once you get the hang of loading stainless reels (especially Hewes) they are faster and easier than other types. (But I've been loading them for over 50 years, so I've had lots of practice.)

[Ko.Fe.]

8 hours ago, grahamc said:

Thanks @Siriusone59.  Yes, luckily only this frame 

The other problem I'm having with steel reels is that the edges of the negative sometimes get creased upwards and I don't realise until I finish developing as it's not obvious when winding the roll onto the reel .  It has only happened a couple of times but concerning because I never feel it happen 

I obviously have some practice to do but generally the steel reels do load very easily (Hewes reels) 

I don't use steel made. Plastic made are much more easier to load and not giving problem like this.

[Aryel]

17 minutes ago, Ko.Fe. said:

I don't use steel made. Plastic made are much more easier to load and not giving problem like this.

I got the opposite : hewes reels are very easy to load for me whereas the plastic ones gave me lot of trouble. 

@grahamc: on way to get this is to leave too much film behind the hooking point at the start and when rolling it touches the first frame (hope this makes sense). 

[grahamc]

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12 minutes ago, Aryel said:

I got the opposite : hewes reels are very easy to load for me whereas the plastic ones gave me lot of trouble. 

@grahamc: on way to get this is to leave too much film behind the hooking point at the start and when rolling it touches the first frame (hope this makes sense). 

I read this a lot that's why I bought the Hewes .  I have been cutting off the leader and then hooking the first holes onto the hooking points, so there isn't anything at all over-hanging.

There is one thing I've been wondering with these reels ......  before putting the film on the hooking point I wasn't sure whether the film is supposed to slide under the little 'bars that are is in front of the hooks (pic attached) .  For now, I've just been laying it over these bars.    But perhaps this is something I'm doing wrong , is it supposed to go under do you think ?

I agree overall they are really easy - the only thing that has happened a couple of times is the creasing of the edges but I think that's caused by carrying on winding when something is wrong.  Squeezing the film as it's winding on avoids this but I have gotten it on a couple of random rolls so far which was annoying 

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[TomB_tx]

Film should just lay over the turned-in ends of the wire. That puts it between the first two winds of wire. Otherwise the film will wind under the first coil that should hold it away from the hub.

[Ko.Fe.]

1 hour ago, Aryel said:

I got the opposite : hewes reels are very easy to load for me whereas the plastic ones gave me lot of trouble. 

I doubt any steel reel is able to handle 40+ frames. I do load 40+ frames from time to time on cassettes.

Plastic reels. all you have to do is to push film in, unroll film from cassette and rotate wheel halves while cassette with film is down. Gravity works for you.  

[Aryel]

1 hour ago, grahamc said:

But perhaps this is something I'm doing wrong , is it supposed to go under do you think ?

I do the same as you, I do not go under. If you have some film to waste, maybe try to reproduce the issue with daylight to workout what happened?

 

@Ko.Fe. I don’t know about the maximum number of frames.  I think it all come down to preferences and what works for you.

Edited April 12, 2022 by Aryel

[TomB_tx]

1 hour ago, Ko.Fe. said:

I doubt any steel reel is able to handle 40+ frames. I do load 40+ frames from time to time on cassettes.

Back in college days I have loaded 40 frames on Nikor steel reels - making sure not to leave excess on the leader end, and allowing the last frames to roll OUTSIDE the last spiral of the reel, which leaves those frames between the reel and tank wall. (It sounds like that could scratch the back of those frames against the inside of the tank, but I never noticed any problem.)

In recent years I usually load 20 to 24 frames on a cassette - takes me too long to use up a 36 roll!

[Doug A]

I have both arthritis and essential tremor in my hands. For me, the easiest to load of all the 35mm reels is the plastic Samigon that fits either a Paterson or a plastic Samigon tank. The hardest for me is the Nikor. The Hewes and the Paterson reels fall somewhere in the middle. For 120, the Samigon is the only one I can load at all.