wda Posted June 29, 2021 Share #21 Posted June 29, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) 3 hours ago, 01maciel said: imho DNG files can't be compressed furthermore or reduced - or am I missing something? Converting the DNG file in a 8 Bit TIFF doesn't help for the purpose. Could you please more specific. I process my RAW files in Lightroom then export selected ones as jpegs, resized to fit with destination requirements. Often these do not exceed 1,000 pixels in width. I save my export settings and name them accordingly. Choose quality settings appropriately. The exported files are very much smaller than the master files, and suit their purpose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 29, 2021 Posted June 29, 2021 Hi wda, Take a look here Critique and your thoughts on how to improve - original vs processed photo. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
beewee Posted July 2, 2021 Share #22 Posted July 2, 2021 On 6/19/2021 at 7:18 PM, jaapv said: It was a good save from an underexposed image, but I really though the total effect a bit dull My tweak was simple: I used the dodge brush and increased vibrance: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Of course the edges are a bit sloppy -normally I would mask the outline of the tower. Here’s my take. It looks remarkably similar. No masking needed with the DNG. Just simple tone curves. It was rather funny in that, as I was playing with this image in lightroom, the way the file reacts to lightroom adjustments felt very similar to my M10 images. Then, when I checked the metadata, I realized it was taken from an M10. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01maciel Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share #23 Posted July 12, 2021 I need to follow up this thread with the latest pp of the initial image. Sometimes it helps a lot to read the manual of the software I am using. I increased the target gray point which adds brightness without changing the black and white area. The sky isn't too bright nor overexposed. The contrasts and the colours still look real and they are not too bad imho. What do you think? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/321789-critique-and-your-thoughts-on-how-to-improve-original-vs-processed-photo/?do=findComment&comment=4236689'>More sharing options...
wda Posted July 12, 2021 Share #24 Posted July 12, 2021 It depends on your recollection of the scene and your aim in processing the image. Those factors are very personal. I suspect you are making global adjustments. I would be inclined to consider local adjustments as well. Unless you desire the building in near silhouette, more detail could be revealed in its structure by using a brush in Lightroom. Why not explore that possibility? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camaro5 Posted July 13, 2021 Share #25 Posted July 13, 2021 Backlight images can be tough. I did some basic tweaks in LR and used PS & Nik with reduced opacity. Also some local adjustments in LR using a range mask. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/321789-critique-and-your-thoughts-on-how-to-improve-original-vs-processed-photo/?do=findComment&comment=4237604'>More sharing options...
wda Posted July 13, 2021 Share #26 Posted July 13, 2021 Have you tried Nik Viveza? Mastery of control points would be a useful skill to exploit, in such an image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camaro5 Posted July 14, 2021 Share #27 Posted July 14, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've looked at Viveza but it's similar to Lightroom where I have a ton of adjustment brushes. I prefer local adjustments that way. I have used control points but don't find them to be as precise as a brush tool. Typically I don't use any contrast, vibrance, or saturation in Lightroom until the very end, if it needs it. I open a separate layer in Photoshop with Nik and use the Dynamic Contrast & Perceptual Saturation modules. I then reduce the layer opacity to about 50% or so, just to get a little pop. I also use a High Pass Filter set to 3 pixels and reduce that layer to about 80% or so. Final adjustments are done in Lightroom, usually a small tweak here and there and light vignette. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted July 14, 2021 Share #28 Posted July 14, 2021 Selections are subtly different, but each to his own preferences. I hasten to add that most of my work is accomplished in Lightroom. Filters are rarely used. But I do find a place for Viveza, where the subject is tonally and chromatically different to its surroundings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01maciel Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share #29 Posted July 16, 2021 Am 13.7.2021 um 19:28 schrieb Camaro5: Backlight images can be tough. I did some basic tweaks in LR and used PS & Nik with reduced opacity. Also some local adjustments in LR using a range mask. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Very interesting. It looks terrible when the photo is displayed in the thread but looks impressive good when clicked on it. I like the light around the tower and the contrast of clouds which is imho not over-processed. It looks a bit red-ish for my taste. Good work anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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