Pelu2010 Posted May 6, 2021 Share #1 Posted May 6, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hey , I am starting to use speed lights with my sl2s and I am wondering on how do I solve this problem. I need a fast time because the scene is bright, but without flash it is dark. Now if I try to focus my manual lenses I can’t see the sharpness. If I flash the picture looks ok , but I need to make adjustments to the time. So to focus I need to go to 0,5 or 1 Second and the back down the exposure to 1/200 to make the shot. But I would not get any reaction of the model if I would shoot a person this way. Is there any way to solve this? I am shooting in manual mode with a Godox speed light and a remote attached to the camera. Thanks Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 6, 2021 Posted May 6, 2021 Hi Pelu2010, Take a look here How to focus manually when you flash and the exposure for ambient light is to low ?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Slender Posted May 6, 2021 Share #2 Posted May 6, 2021 4 hours ago, Pelu2010 said: So to focus I need to go to 0,5 or 1 Second and the back down the exposure to 1/200 to make the shot. But I would not get any reaction of the model if I would shoot a person this way. Is there any way to solve this? Yes, it is common to all mirrorless as yo see real time exposre simlated in the EVF. To solve this on the Leica, you need to cut OFF exposure preview in M mode. (P-A-S only). I dont have the camera with me right now bt it's somewhere in the menus... It lets yo dial your speed w/o affecting the brightness of the EVF. Works a charm for flashes for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photoworks Posted May 6, 2021 Share #3 Posted May 6, 2021 in addition to what it has said above you can open the f-stop to focus and close to shoot. Some people implement a 3 stop ND filter to keep the F-stop from closing to much while using flash. I have used a Godox AD200 at very low power outside with trigger on a bright day at 1/640 and not Curtin vignetting manifested on the SL2 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/320652-how-to-focus-manually-when-you-flash-and-the-exposure-for-ambient-light-is-to-low/?do=findComment&comment=4195483'>More sharing options...
RoySmith Posted May 6, 2021 Share #4 Posted May 6, 2021 The SL2’s flash sync speed is 1/250s was this taken using high speed sync? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slender Posted May 6, 2021 Share #5 Posted May 6, 2021 Yeah I am wondering if flash was at all seen by the camera... if so that is awesome news but I prefer to stay cautious... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photoworks Posted May 7, 2021 Share #6 Posted May 7, 2021 14 hours ago, RoySmith said: The SL2’s flash sync speed is 1/250s was this taken using high speed sync? Godox has only manual mode on SL2. It studio I shoot at 1/125 because the duration of studio strobe is longer . In the shot above she was in the shade with not light in the eyes. The Godox was in the soft box at 1/4 power. Since the flash is so quick at 1/4 the Curtin just matched well. you can see the flash in the eyes Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/320652-how-to-focus-manually-when-you-flash-and-the-exposure-for-ambient-light-is-to-low/?do=findComment&comment=4196052'>More sharing options...
RoySmith Posted May 7, 2021 Share #7 Posted May 7, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well done. You really have to know your equipment to know when this will work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted May 7, 2021 Share #8 Posted May 7, 2021 (edited) Puzzled by this. I wouldn't expect a shorter duration strobe to make HSS easier - more the opposite ('normal' HSS relies on extending the duration of the strobe to ensure the whole of the sensor 'sees' it). I did some tests a while back with the SL and found I could use a strobe at faster than 1/250 - I can't remember the limit (I decided in the end to keep to 1/250) but as the shutter speed increased (i.e. reduced shutter slit width) there was both horizontal vignetting from the curtain and dimming of the image. But whatever works🙂! Edited May 7, 2021 by LocalHero1953 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photoworks Posted May 7, 2021 Share #9 Posted May 7, 2021 To clarify there are 2 reason why I have used flash in this photo. she wanted to shoot in that spot and the usual problems are that light in the shade of trees doesn't always have the right direction for portraits, most important is that everywhere around was green grass that many times reflects green on the skin. I started with a base exposure in M mode with no flash , lightly underexposed , then added the flash, few tests and I set it to give me about 1/2 stop over ambient light. It is quite simple if your ambient light doesn't change much. Flash duration. The lower the flash power a shorter time it is going to light up. I remember shooting an ad for champagne in the days of film, the challenge was to freeze the liquid with no motion blur. At that time I needed f45 on a 4x5 camera. Using 3 studio strobes from elinchrom at full power would give me the correct exposure, but been full power the duration was to long, the solution was to use 15 strobes a very low power to reach f-45. @LocalHero1953 HSS works in a similar way in that micro flashes in continuous mode illuminate the sensor when the sliver of the exposure goes down. This is only doable with TTL function of the flash of the camera, in this case only Leica SF-60 would work in remote . The problem is that the flash has to be very close to the subject since the power in HSS is very low, and even more once you ad diffusion in the from of it. It seam that this way you can only shoot a few picture before the flash battery starts complaining and in my experience it does not last a portrait shoot. My hope is that leica opens the TTL function to other companies like Elinchrom and Profoto, a better solution would be to use Elinchrom Hi-Sync . https://www.elinchrom.com/learn/hss-hs.html sorry for the long story, but sometime you just need to try different options to know what works. Shooting at 1/640 at f2 and flash was a happy coincidence . In other cases it is preferred to use ND filter to get back down to 1/250 and F2 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted May 7, 2021 Share #10 Posted May 7, 2021 Yes, a tricky situation. I have almost the exact issue to deal with tomorrow: my first portrait shoot in over a year, outdoors of course. The weather is expected to be sunny, and I will be looking for a shady spot for her in a garden setting. I shall be doing the same trial and error with flash; I find it difficult, though, to judge fill-in flash from the EVF or LCD - before now I've gone home to find, on a big monitor, that I've overdone it, and flattened the face. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelu2010 Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share #11 Posted May 16, 2021 All my tests with HSS have failed. I tried to contact godox and Leica to get any feedback on the issue. I hope this gets solved in one of the next firmware updates. To me HSS is very important. I don´t want to go back to ND Filters. Anyone has any experience with Panasonic flashes? kind regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photoworks Posted May 16, 2021 Share #12 Posted May 16, 2021 1 hour ago, Pelu2010 said: All my tests with HSS have failed. I tried to contact godox and Leica to get any feedback on the issue. I hope this gets solved in one of the next firmware updates. To me HSS is very important. I don´t want to go back to ND Filters. Anyone has any experience with Panasonic flashes? kind regards Peter Did you miss the part that Godox flash or any other flash is not supported on Leica Camera. If HSS is important to you use the Leica SF-40 or SF-60. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsmith Posted May 20, 2021 Share #13 Posted May 20, 2021 Actually, the SL2 flash syncs at 400th ss, try it 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelu2010 Posted August 4, 2021 Author Share #14 Posted August 4, 2021 You are right! But you need to activate HSS. Without HSS on the flash it's 320. Its nice to have a little more time. But it would be massive if we could haver the full spectrum of shutter speeds. Thanxs for the hack! Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantoz Posted August 7, 2021 Share #15 Posted August 7, 2021 I use a sl2-2 with godox xpro-n trigger, all in manual. have you also had problems in the sense that every now and then the leica freezes and the only way to go back to shooting is to remove the battery? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelu2010 Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share #16 Posted August 14, 2021 Not until now. But I will keep an eye on it. I had this problem too, but I am not sure if I was shooting with strobes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelu2010 Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share #17 Posted August 14, 2021 On 5/6/2021 at 8:23 AM, Pelu2010 said: Hey , I am starting to use speed lights with my sl2s and I am wondering on how do I solve this problem. I need a fast time because the scene is bright, but without flash it is dark. Now if I try to focus my manual lenses I can’t see the sharpness. If I flash the picture looks ok , but I need to make adjustments to the time. So to focus I need to go to 0,5 or 1 Second and the back down the exposure to 1/200 to make the shot. But I would not get any reaction of the model if I would shoot a person this way. Is there any way to solve this? I am shooting in manual mode with a Godox speed light and a remote attached to the camera. Thanks Peter Hey I found out what I did wrong. You need to set the camera to PAS, so that manual is out of the exposure preview. Then you can see the model and set any time and f-stop After the flash hit the scene you get the feedback of the camera. So far this works for me. Nice would be if we could HSS with Godox products. thanxs Peter Page 3 Live View Settings Exposure Preview P-A-S-M Set this to P-A-S Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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