MATE and M8

[egibaud]

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Thank you Carsten. The MATE is 1700 € and the SUMMILUX 35 is not ASPH.

 

Merci Pascal, j'ai vu le SUMMILUX hier chez Jean-Marc Francoz. Jean-Marc m'a dit la même chose que toi. En fait, j'aimerais bien un LUX 35 ASPH mais ce n'est pas raisonable. Je suis a plus de 25K euros de matos Leica depuis june. Peut-être je dois attendre jusqu'à Nöel et faire passer le message à ma femme qu'un LUX 35 ASPH serait le meilleur cadeau pour son homme

.

Tell her to get it from Nicolas Muro, official dealer in Saintes, as he test all what he sells before sending. This ensure no back focus etc., he got me a spot on Noctilux.

 

Good luck,

 

Eric

[gabriel]

There were 3 versions of the MATE

1st version 55mm filter black

1st version 55mm filter silver (rare)

2nd version 49 mm filter black only

Always check any version MATE on all bodies you may use it on for correct framelines at all focal lengths and free positive movement of the frame selector lever on the camera.

All MATE repairs and coding have to be carried out in Solms.

I have used the 1st and 2nd versions for several years and find them excellent lenses optrically only limited by the F4 aperture. And mow I have a M8 together with the WATE and a 90mm F2.6 form my Ideal lens travel outfit.

[ArtZ]

Paulo, Carsten, David, Bob, Howard, Eric and Gabriel,

 

Thank you for your advice on this issue. Finnally I made up my mind. I ordered at CameraQuest a copy of the "New Limited Edition f1.2/35mm CHROME" of the Nokton (I wanted a second lens in chrome for my chome body and, hopefully, this lens will become collector: only 300 lenses made over the World). The price was good (819 USD which is a bit less of 600 €).

 

I've been reading some reviews about this lens and it seems to be almost as good as the LUX f1.4/35mm ASPH and highly recommended for the M8.

 

On the other hand, it's a bit bulky and heavy... well, we cannot have everything, can we? But I will save some money to get a LUX f1.4/75mm before the end of the year :D

 

Does anyone know if John Milich sell rings for 6-bit code? Or where can I get them?

 

Regards,

.

[carstenw]

Congratulations, and may I say this: nice lens! John Milich can code a ring sent to him. You will need to find out if the bayonet ring can be removed from the 35/1.2 without trouble, but if it can, you can send it to John and have him code, and then remount it.

[jonoslack]

HI Art

I've just seen this.

 

I think that the MATE is a wonderful companion for the WATE. If I'm going walking, I take the WATE, the MATE and a 75mm 'cron - an excellent combination in a lightweight bag - and if you have two bodies it's even more attractive.

 

Of course, it's not fast, but I'm pleased with the image quality, and it's a nice lens to use.

 

thoroughly recommended.

[ArtZ]

Carsten,

 

I've just got an email from Stephen (CameraQuest) confirming that the Nokton will be send this week. I have also found in Wüppertal a B+W 486 52mm IR cut (Silber!!!) for the Nokton at Michael Huppert Foto. Argg... mein Deutsch ist so sleght... but I managed to order it and paid it through their web site Wunderbar!

 

Jonathan,

 

I DO agree with you... I think the combination WATE+MATE is perfect for street photography, especially when I have in mind to buy a second M8 before the price goes up. The reason why I finally chosed the Nokton is because the MATE I found is version 1 (55mm filter). Then, it was the price... I prefer to spend 600 € in a 35mm and getting later this year a LUX 75 (if I can find it, of course)

 

Today's annecdote:

 

I went with a friend to the "Parc de Sceaux" (a beautiful place near Paris) to take some pictures. I was using mainly the WATE because my 28/2 cron is in Solms.

 

I lend to my friend the D2 which just arrived from Solms with a new sensor... Well, it must go back to Solms again tomorrow!!!

 

After repairing the sensor, they have screw up the lens! If you try to do manual focus, at 28mm a subjet placed at 3m you get it in focus at 0.6m on the ring. The distances between the subjet and the focus ring reading are only good when you're at 90mm. The more you zoom, the more accurate become the reading on the ring and the real distance.

 

When I say that the QA department at Leica is less than perfect...

 

They have already replaced the D2 in the past (dust on the LCD screen and sensor); in June, back to Solms for the sensor; my first M8 died in 24 hours and a battery replacement for the second body; in August, the 28/2 cron and the D2 has not been properly repaired... I think "mon cher" Attila or Andrea won't be happy after my phone call tomorrow. I think I will ask them to keep the D2 and to give a very good price for a second M8 or to replace it for a D3... We'll see... Grrrrrrrrr

 

Cheers!

.

[gravastar]

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Congratulations, and may I say this: nice lens! John Milich can code a ring sent to him. You will need to find out if the bayonet ring can be removed from the 35/1.2 without trouble, but if it can, you can send it to John and have him code, and then remount it.

Yes, the bayonet ring is easily removed. I had to remove it from my black lens to safely machine part of the shroud in order to get the lens to focus to infinity on the M8. You won't have that problem since your lens will have already been modified. If I remember correctly, under the bayonet ring there is another ring that has to be reassembled in the same position (could be wrong though.) I just marked the rings and lens barrel with a fine tipped spirit marker. The absolute alignment is guaranteed by the screws when you reassemble. The marker can be removed by methy alcohol - meths - Eclipse 1 etc.

 

The only slight fly in the ointment is there is a screw hole where some of the coding slots go so you will have to paint over a screw head after John has milled the ring.

 

I saw the Chrome lens on Stephen's site the other day and was sorely tempted - but I figured it would be very expensive. After what you have said I think I'll send him an email - LOL I really shouldn't be thinking this ....

 

Bob.

[ArtZ]

Yes, the bayonet ring is easily removed. I had to remove it from my black lens to safely machine part of the shroud in order to get the lens to focus to infinity on the M8. You won't have that problem since your lens will have already been modified. If I remember correctly, under the bayonet ring there is another ring that has to be reassembled in the same position (could be wrong though.) I just marked the rings and lens barrel with a fine tipped spirit marker. The absolute alignment is guaranteed by the screws when you reassemble. The marker can be removed by methy alcohol - meths - Eclipse 1 etc.

 

I take note of this... Stephen will send it tomorrow by FedEx (125 USD) so, hopefully, I will have it here by next week.

 

I saw the Chrome lens on Stephen's site the other day and was sorely tempted - but I figured it would be very expensive. After what you have said I think I'll send him an email - LOL I really shouldn't be thinking this ....

 

I understand you so well, Bob... It's really beautiful in chrome. I was afraid of not being able to get the IR cut filter on chrome. Well, if you crack for the "Limited Edition" this is the place for the filter: Willkommen bei Foto Huppert (75 € incl. delivery)

 

Cheers!

.

[carstenw]

Manuel (and other 35/1.2 owners),

 

You may want to do a bit of research to find the best IR filter for the 35/1.2. Sean may mention it in his review, I am not sure. I know that with my 35/1.4 ASPH the Leica filter is better, at least sometimes, wide open. The B+W is too strong, and I have colour casts in the corners sometimes. I don't know if another filter is better for the 35/1.2 as well.

[ArtZ]

Manuel (and other 35/1.2 owners),

 

You may want to do a bit of research to find the best IR filter for the 35/1.2. Sean may mention it in his review, I am not sure. I know that with my 35/1.4 ASPH the Leica filter is better, at least sometimes, wide open. The B+W is too strong, and I have colour casts in the corners sometimes. I don't know if another filter is better for the 35/1.2 as well.

 

Carsten,

 

I got this information about B+W IR cut filters (maybe I'm wrong):

 

The B+W #489 IR it is intended for use as protection for IR-sensitive CCD sensors or in the light path of illumination devices with low thermal characteristics. It suppresses infrared radiation ≥780 nm. Because it gradually begins to absorb infrared radiation at 600 nm, long-wave red light is slightly weakened, so that this filter has a subtle green tint. But in CCD applications, this can be readily corrected electronically. Its filter factor is approximately 1.2.

 

The B+W #489 IR is very close (or equal) to Leica's filters concerning IR protection but does not provide UV protection.

 

The B+W Filter #486 UV / IR does not block by means of absorption, but by interference of the unwanted UV- and IR radiation that is repeatedly reflected between these layers, affecting the wavelengths on both sides of the visible spectrum with a steep cut-off. It is used mainly on digital- and video cameras with CCD sensors without an integrated IR protection filter, because the IR sensitivity of the CCD sensor would otherwise cause color changes and unsharpness. Its filter factor is approximately 1.0.

 

The B+W Filter #486 UV / IR is stronger than Leica's filters and B+W #486 and you can see some cyan cast with wide lenses, in particular with 16,18,21,24mm but after 28mm the cyan cast is not visible. I don't really think that with a 35mm there's a problem.

 

It's very difficult to get a B+W #489 52mm and they only made it in black (I think). As I bought the chrome Nokton and I found a B+W #486 Silver for 70 €, I thought it was worthy trying it.

 

If I find problems... I will try a B+W #489 IR black or I will buy a SUMMILUX f1.4/35mm (just kidding)

 

Cheers!

[gravastar]

Manuel (and other 35/1.2 owners),

 

You may want to do a bit of research to find the best IR filter for the 35/1.2. Sean may mention it in his review, I am not sure. I know that with my 35/1.4 ASPH the Leica filter is better, at least sometimes, wide open. The B+W is too strong, and I have colour casts in the corners sometimes. I don't know if another filter is better for the 35/1.2 as well.

Hmmm...You could be right Guy. I have occasionally noticed slightly green corners with the B+W 486 but that was without lens coding. Leica don't make a 52mm filter. Due to the M8's crop factor we may be able to get away with a 52 to 49mm step down ring and a Leica 49mm filter without vignetting. Both Voigtlander lens hoods for the 35/1.2 clip over the outside of the lens barrel and shouldn't interfere with a stepping ring. I don't have the M8 at the moment (Solms) otherwise I'd check.

 

Manuel, you may have second thoughts about using a filter with a chrome mount. The lens is very resistant to flare and having a bright reflective filter mount in front might compromise this. I don't know how much of the chrome would be visible from the "camera side". Only way to know for sure is to try and see.

 

Bob.

[ArtZ]

Hmmm...You could be right Guy. I have occasionally noticed slightly green corners with the B+W 486 but that was without lens coding. Leica don't make a 52mm filter. Due to the M8's crop factor we may be able to get away with a 52 to 49mm step down ring and a Leica 49mm filter without vignetting. Both Voigtlander lens hoods for the 35/1.2 clip over the outside of the lens barrel and shouldn't interfere with a stepping ring. I don't have the M8 at the moment (Solms) otherwise I'd check.

 

As I say in my previous post, B+W #489 is very similar to Leica's filters and you may get a "green tint that can be readily corrected electronically" I suppose that it happens the same with B+W #489 filter. With a coded Nokton, the M8 should correct the green cast, shouldn't it? Well, I try to be optimistic.

 

The answer in a few days...

 

Manuel, you may have second thoughts about using a filter with a chrome mount. The lens is very resistant to flare and having a bright reflective filter mount in front might compromise this. I don't know how much of the chrome would be visible from the "camera side". Only way to know for sure is to try and see.

 

Bob.

 

I thought of that... so I have also ordered a vented hood (Leica style) to protect the filter as much as possible from reflection. I will tell you in a week or so...

.

[Pedro]

What is MATE and WATE?

 

Thanks.

[gravastar]

Medium Angle Tri Elmar

Wide Angle Tri Elmar

 

Bob.

[ho_co]

All MATE repairs and coding have to be carried out in Solms.

 

Not so, at least for coding, though it's not that important. My E49 version 28-35-50 was coded in NJ. Just over three weeks, as I recall, total turnaround.

 

I don't know about repairs, though I think someone else on the forum reported having his E49 MATE repaired in NJ after the front end (filter thread etc) loosened and fell off. Wouldn't surprise me, though, if serious repairs had to go to Solms/Wetzlar.

 

--HC

[gravastar]

........................Bob, if you can post here one of those romantic pictures you get with your LUX 35, I will be very happy to see.

 

Thank you again!

.

Here's a good example , much better than I can do.

 

My Buddy Nina (not for corporate web surfers): Leica Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

 

Notice the soft halo around the girl's right hand, that's typical of the lens at full aperture. The higher the contrast between adjacent areas the more noticeable it becomes.

In the thread people are asking: "Excellent! What I want to know is how you capture such softness with the M8? Other photos...... have a sharper edge, is it post work or a filter?"

 

Bob.

 

ETA: A standard 49mm Leica UV/IR filter will fit in the two part hood 12504 if you mount the filter with the thread facing outwards. That avoids having to use a B+W Series filter which has slightly different transmission characteristics than the Leica one.

[ArtZ]

Here's a good example , much better than I can do.

 

My Buddy Nina (not for corporate web surfers): Leica Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

 

Notice the soft halo around the girl's right hand, that's typical of the lens at full aperture. The higher the contrast between adjacent areas the more noticeable it becomes.

In the thread people are asking: "Excellent! What I want to know is how you capture such softness with the M8? Other photos...... have a sharper edge, is it post work or a filter?"

 

Bob.

 

Bob, thank you for the post. I've see what you mean. Very nice example. I like that kind of softness.

 

Yesterday morning I popped in at "La Maison du Leica" and I tried the LUX pre-ASPH for a few hours. I was thinking of getting it (plus the Nokton). After 20 shots, I decided not to do it. The main reason was this lens has been used a lot. The focus ring "stucks" very often which makes difficult to focus, especially wide-opened. It had also an obvious back focus problem. I even considered to send it to Solms for revision but the owner of the shop told me it will cost me around 300 €.

 

I didn't care much about the 6-Bit coding because I don't think it's really necessary with this lens (I think Leica doesn't code this lens). I was using an I/R filter and when I got home and I checked the pictures on my laptop, I didn't find color cast issues.

 

My conclusion is if I can find in the future a LUX pre-ASPH 35mm in better conditions, I think I will buy it. Though I wouldn't buy on the Internet. I think this lens must be checked on the M8 first.

 

Cheers!

.