a.noctilux Posted October 4, 2020 Share #21 ย Posted October 4, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) ๐ post #3 [ ... Take one knowing that others will come later ๐ naturally (if hooked of course ! ). Arnaud ] There is no bad choice, only GOOD choice of M and each can be sold , later if required, with small lost or even gaining some money, after using a while. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 4, 2020 Posted October 4, 2020 Hi a.noctilux, Take a look here M3 vs Titanium M6. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Steve Ricoh Posted October 4, 2020 Share #22 ย Posted October 4, 2020 11 hours ago, Mute-on said: Conclusion of this thread is that it is (almost certainly) brass ย ย Gunter Osterloh states in his book the โLeica M Advanced Photo Schoolโ that the M6 top plate is 0.8mm die cast zinc with thick black or silver chrome, or titanium-platingโ. The book isย informative about the M system, and how to get the bestย use out of the RF system. Recommended to all users. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted October 4, 2020 Share #23 ย Posted October 4, 2020 This is very nice book which has so many things to know about using at best the Leica M and many accessories ( I discovered the "Beoon" not named as such in the book, page 105/106 ). ย Gรผnter Osterloh LEICA M the advanced school of photography ISBN 3-524-68018-6 ... Maybe I have the early (1987) edition of the book which was released before the "Titanium coated M6" (from 1992), it says the same as you Steve, at page 22. But in my french Leica catalog of 1997, page 4-8 "Leica M6 titanisรฉ: capot en laiton de 0,8mm" ( laiton = brass ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matlock Posted October 4, 2020 Share #24 ย Posted October 4, 2020 Leica did revert to brass top plate for some later M6 models,ย to quote from Leica's own catalogue "Top panel 0.8mm die-cast Zinc, bottom panel 0.8mm brass". Later leaflets show "Deep-drawn brass camera top". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted October 4, 2020 Share #25 ย Posted October 4, 2020 One way to find out is to remove the top plate and scratch the underside. But be careful! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom R Posted October 4, 2020 Share #26 ย Posted October 4, 2020 About "rapid loading" mechanism (M4 and greater): I used M2 and M3 bodies for nearly twenty-five years and learned to load film on my feet, as the previous poster mentioned. With practice, anyone can load these cameras with a very high degree of confidence. That having been said, I do prefer the "rapid loading mechanism."ย Had I thought a little in my original post, I may have moved that feature to the end of the list, considering intended focal lengths, requirements for a "modern" hot shoe, etc., as more important/relevant.ย One thing that I didn't mention in the original post was the availability of parts ... I've been told that established repairpersons do have adequate supplies of critical parts, such a finders. I know that I was NOT able to obtain a new pressure plate for one of my M4-P bodies last year from Leica, New Jersey. (Happily, I can remedy the occasional scratches in PP.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plaidshirts Posted October 5, 2020 Share #27 ย Posted October 5, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) A late model M3 was my first film Leica, followed by a button-rewind M2 then a M6 TTL with a .85 VF. I thought I would never sell my M3 but alas, the human heart is fickle. If it were me, with both in good condition (not sure if it wasย mentioned?) and similarly priced, I'd go with the M6. However, with these Leicas, you won't be happy unless you follow your heart so go ahead and get the M3. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeowee Posted October 5, 2020 Author Share #28 ย Posted October 5, 2020 After messaging with the seller the M3 is actually 300 dollars more expensive than the M6.ย Leaning more towards the M6 now. ย Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted October 5, 2020 Share #29 ย Posted October 5, 2020 (edited) When you want to buy ( in futur if "hooked" to film M ), M3 would/will be USD 300 or more to add then. Nice M3 or "ordinary plain M3" would be my choice as I don't ( after using for years M6 for Kodachrome ) need the built-in lightmeter. With more experiences now (not using slides anymore), I appreciate more and more film M without meter for more relaxing viewfinder. Had you look in each VF ? "Zen like " only 50 thick frame M3 and more "sophiscated 2 pairs frames lines M6" with LED and sometimes some flare in contrejour situation. ย Edited October 5, 2020 by a.noctilux 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narsuitus Posted October 5, 2020 Share #30 ย Posted October 5, 2020 On 10/4/2020 at 4:22 AM, weeowee said: We have a lovely M2 for wider lenses. I think thatโs why we were drooling over the M3 because we thought it would be a good partner for our M2. Another M2 would also be a good partner for your M2. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmans Posted October 9, 2020 Share #31 ย Posted October 9, 2020 I have both the M3 and the M6.....I use the M3 the majority of the time....I shoot 50mm with it. As some say ย on this thread, the difference in the .92 and .72 is vast.... take the M3 and if you need a light meter, invest in a leica meter for a few hundred bucks as they work just fine.ย 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeowee Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share #32 ย Posted October 26, 2020 Ended up with this really nice M3 almost mint except for a few scratches at the baseplate. It went on sale๐ and that helped my decision. Thanks to everyone who gave their opinion.ย 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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