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I meant your conclusion regarding the source of your "weird blue banding." But anyway....

As to a step up?

Regarding the "pink" and "blue" issues, not much. They are inherent to digital imaging one way or the other (using uncoded M wide lenses, or overexposing skies). An M10 (or even the new M10R) won't be much different.

The main differences in the M10 line are: somewhat higher usable ISOs, slightly smaller size, no video, less battery capacity, bit larger viewfinder, a simplified menu and button interface, and in the M10-R, 16 more Mpixels.

I skipped the M240 altogether and went direct from M9 to M10 - but thousands didn't.

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13 minutes ago, adan said:

I meant your conclusion regarding the source of your "weird blue banding." But anyway....

Oh sorry.  The sky was blown out in my original exposure, but I was using auto shutter speed and auto ISO, so  it's expected.  I'm just not adept yet at handling the rangefinder in full manual mode.  in a way, I like the weird colors, so if I could ever control how they appear that would be a positive, but I just want natural colors in scenes like architecture and landscape.  I think I'll try the lens out on my M6 and see what it looks like on film.  Less latitude there for color banding and such, I believe.  

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4 minutes ago, BlackPaint said:

Oh sorry.  The sky was blown out in my original exposure, but I was using auto shutter speed and auto ISO, so  it's expected.  I'm just not adept yet at handling the rangefinder in full manual mode.  in a way, I like the weird colors, so if I could ever control how they appear that would be a positive, but I just want natural colors in scenes like architecture and landscape.  I think I'll try the lens out on my M6 and see what it looks like on film.  Less latitude there for color banding and such, I believe.  

Try using exposure compensation a little to control blown highlights. You can lift the shadows a little when processing but sometimes you can’t regain blown highlights.

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17 hours ago, BlackPaint said:

Straight out of the camera

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Looks like you wish to enhance the blue tone in the sky. There's some bluish tint to the frames there and either bringing down the highlights or boosting saturations will excite the tint. You'll have to selectively treat those areas instead of doing a global adjustment.

Also at such challenging dynamic scene you can either do an auto exposure bracketing of 3 shots (it'll work reasonably well if you hold still especially for ultra wide) or exposure for the highlights and bring up the shadows later (which for 240/262 will be stretching it quite a bit, you might run into green shadows problem).

Definitely not the same problem of your initial post.

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Just for the record, there is a way to retouch this particular picture to reduce the obvious color banding. I used PhotoShop tools and techniques - not sure whether LR will have the same capabilities. Starting from the posted banded copy.

- Select the color from the cyan color band in the sky, with the eyedropper, as the active "foreground color."

- Select the pure-gray/white areas of the sky and clouds with the "magic-wand" selection tool - feather that about 30 pixels for a soft edge, then deselect any part of the trees or building trellis that crept into the selection area.

- "Colorize" that selected gray/white area (hue/saturation control panel) with the selected cyan color at about 30% to turn the grays into cyans of the same brightnesses and that blend into the actual cyan band.

- Add to the selected area the rest of the sky to the right.

- Use the Hue/Saturation control to shift all cyan hues towards blue, and blues towards cyan, to minimize the strong differentiation or band and get a fairly consistent blue gradient.

- (if desired) select just the vignetted corner area with the "lasso" tool, feather the selection for a gradient, and then use "Curves" to brighten the area subtly, from the bottom up (raise the blacks, with minimal effect on the lighter part that blends into the rest of the sky).

Result - a smooth blue sky gradient and blue/white clouds.

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 I went back and reshot the original  pink toned image and based upon the exposure settings, I can shoot with and without the resultant magenta bands.  Thanks for the help!

I can't seem to get the image embedded, sorry.  I hate using this forum for photos.  Lol.  

 

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