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Hi Neko,

The nominal tube lens focal length for the Optem objective is 200 mm (is the Mitutoyo/Nikon standard). This means that my combination gives a magnification of 9x. The numerical aperture (NA) is 0.30, resulting in a depth of field of around 8 micron (0.008 mm). So yes I stack. A lot. Like 50-400 frames with step size 7 micron. It is humanly not possible to do this manually. My tool of choice is a Cognisys Stackshot 3X. It can go down to steps of 1 micron, and is easily programmable. Not cheap, but apart from the trigger cable (at least for the SL, don't know about the SL2), plug and play. Be sure to use electronic shutter to reduce vibrations (and to prevent unnecessary wearout of the mechanical shutter).

Using these deep stacks with high magnification puts some stringent requirements on the mobility of your subjects, though. Flowers and light organic stuff can move significantly during the 10 minutes of the stack. Insects need to be dead. As software I use Helicon focus, because it can natively stack DNG's with DNG as output. I could not detect rendering differences with alternatives. For deep stacks, overlapping objects are always cumbersome. You'll likely need manual fixup in the software before exporting your assembled stack. This can be cumbersome or never yield satisfying results.

It is not for the faint of heart.

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This is the head of an ant with the Optem. Stack depth 95 frames. Horizontal field of view is approximately 3.5 mm (it is a small crop).

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3 hours ago, Conrad69 said:

Hi Neko,

The nominal tube lens focal length for the Optem objective is 200 mm (is the Mitutoyo/Nikon standard). This means that my combination gives a magnification of 9x. The numerical aperture (NA) is 0.30, resulting in a depth of field of around 8 micron (0.008 mm). So yes I stack. A lot. Like 50-400 frames with step size 7 micron. It is humanly not possible to do this manually. My tool of choice is a Cognisys Stackshot 3X. It can go down to steps of 1 micron, and is easily programmable. Not cheap, but apart from the trigger cable (at least for the SL, don't know about the SL2), plug and play. Be sure to use electronic shutter to reduce vibrations (and to prevent unnecessary wearout of the mechanical shutter).

Using these deep stacks with high magnification puts some stringent requirements on the mobility of your subjects, though. Flowers and light organic stuff can move significantly during the 10 minutes of the stack. Insects need to be dead. As software I use Helicon focus, because it can natively stack DNG's with DNG as output. I could not detect rendering differences with alternatives. For deep stacks, overlapping objects are always cumbersome. You'll likely need manual fixup in the software before exporting your assembled stack. This can be cumbersome or never yield satisfying results.

It is not for the faint of heart.

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 Hi Conrad,

Thanks a lot for your helpful and very informative  post. I plan to shoot still subjects, so mobility won't be a major concern.

My wife is Japanese and there, in Japan, we can buy a Mitutoyo Plan APO for a reasonable price ( half than here in Europe ). About the focusing rail I´m thinking about two options. The one your are using (Cognisys Stackshot) or the Novoflex Castle Micro, made here in Europe...

 How do you attach the Stackshot.? Do you use a tripod or a vertical stand?

 By the way, the photo of the ant is outstanding! Congrats!

 

 

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Hi Neko,

thanks for the kind words.

I use a tripod since I prefer to work horizontally.

If you can get a Mitutoyo at half price, go for it. I heard/read good things about it. I do not know how the Optem compares. I seem to be the only one using it for photography.

What do you plan to use as tube lens?

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1 hour ago, Conrad69 said:

Hi Neko,

thanks for the kind words.

I use a tripod since I prefer to work horizontally.

If you can get a Mitutoyo at half price, go for it. I heard/read good things about it. I do not know how the Optem compares. I seem to be the only one using it for photography.

What do you plan to use as tube lens?

This is the tube lens I intend to use. is made by Novoflex. The tube has a built -in achromatic lens and include an adaptor for direct use with the Mitutoyo.

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2 hours ago, Conrad69 said:

Hi Neko,

thanks for the kind words.

I use a tripod since I prefer to work horizontally.

If you can get a Mitutoyo at half price, go for it. I heard/read good things about it. I do not know how the Optem compares. I seem to be the only one using it for photography.

What do you plan to use as tube lens?

This should be the complete setup with the Castle Micro focusing rail and the tripod collar, also made by Novoflex.

Just change the camera for a better one (SL2) -:)

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The Novoflex stuff looks quite OK. The stage is expensive, but is more elegant and provides smaller steps than the Cognisys. There is no Leica cable though, so you have to figure a solution out yourself there. The focal length of the tube lens is not specified. Likely 200 mm then, so people don't get confused with the magnification numbers on the objectives.

Good luck with your decisions.

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On 4/16/2020 at 9:11 PM, Conrad69 said:

The Novoflex stuff looks quite OK. The stage is expensive, but is more elegant and provides smaller steps than the Cognisys. There is no Leica cable though, so you have to figure a solution out yourself there. The focal length of the tube lens is not specified. Likely 200 mm then, so people don't get confused with the magnification numbers on the objectives.

Good luck with your decisions.

  Yes, the tube is 200 mm FL. About the cable I contacted Novoflex and they gave me a solution. They sell a cable with a 2.5 mm jack. As the Sl2 has a 3.5 mm port I just have to get one adaptor( 2.5 to 3.5 mm). The guy from Novoflex told me that they asked Leica about this and Leica answered that the the adaptor should work without any problem.

 When my Novoflex gear arrive I will let you know about my first experiences...

 Keep shooting those amazing images.

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Good morning,

 

I posted this in the focus stacking thread yesterday but it is relevant here also!  I've also got an extension tube/microscope lens set-up that I'll describe in a separate post...

 

Here are a couple of shots made using Helicon.  SL (601) and 100mm R f2.8 macro. Camera mounted on an ISHOOT macro focusing rail 150. The lens was set at f2.8 (to through as much of the background out of focus as possible)  and a magnification ratio of 1:2.

For both I images found the far and near points for sharp focus using the magnification facility in the viewfinder, and noted the position using the mm scale on the rail. They were about 40mm apart.

This article gives a step calculator http://extreme-macro.co.uk/focus-stacking/ For f.2.8 it suggests a step of 0.091mm.  As one rotation of the screw moves the whole camera and lens 1mm  the closest I can get by hand is about 0.15mm interval by making 8 steps per revolution with an exposure each.

Starting at one end using a remote control I made 352 exposures for the first image and 314 for the second.  Stacked using Helicon Focus 7 then minor post processing adjustments in Lightroom and Photoshop to tone down some highlights and improve texture.  The exposures were made in the evening when the wind had died and the flowers were still - any slight twitching in the wind leads to ghost edges in the stack.

It is somewhat tedious and care and consistency are needed.  What is crucial is the image must not move, which makes outdoor shots very difficult to accomplish.  I've still got a lot of learning to do!!!

Take care and stay well everyone,

Graeme

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I first tried using a microscope lens with stepping rings  on the front of an M visoflex mounted on an SL using an M-L adapter.  This image shows it with a 4x lens.  The two images of moss capsules are full frame - the first with a 100mm R f2.8 with the 1:1 adapter fitted and the second image of a single capsule taken using the visoflex/microscope lens for comparison. Both are single images, not stacked.  I tried photo stacking but the rack and pinion on the visoflex is coarse, and there are too many linkages for the outfit to remain steady and be in the same place for each shot. The result is distracting ghost images.

I acquired an ISHOOT macro rail (see above post) that I'm now using, and another microscope lens - 4x but with the focus at infinity rather than 150mm. Used with extension tubes instead of the visoflex It gives greater working distance and is more steady. I've tried it with a CL with moderate success. I don't have a stepper motor arrangement so at present am turning the screw manually. I'd welcome advice on appropriate equipment to get please.   During the present "lockdown" I'm on the vulnerable list here in the UK so have to stay in for 12 weeks and this should give me a chance to give it a go.  Watch this space, as they say...!!!

As said above, not for the faint hearted.  Things have to be absolutely still.  I have to overcome frustrations!!!

Take care and stay well,

Graeme

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