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I wanted to see what users of the 80-280 need to do to get sharp images at infinity. (Think landscape with lots of tree detail.) 

My attempts can be a bit soft and I have a huge suspicion it’s user error. 

Would be very grateful of any advice:

- Shutter speed: 1 / focal length or 1 / 2x focal length

- f8? 

- Image stabilisation?

- Do you need a tripod?

- Sharpen or not in post ?

- Other tips or experiences?

- Manual focus or auto (cross target)?

 

Much gratitude...

 

Edited by peggers
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Not very helpful really, other than to say I've had no problems when using a tripod (which I'll always do for landscape/infinity shots anyway).

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36 minutes ago, wildlightphoto said:

Atmospheric conditions can be a problem.

+1. Irrespective of the equipment you have and whatever you do to maximise the shooting, having enormous, constantly and randomly moving 'air-lenses' between you and the far-away subject will dictate the end result. And the far-away subject doesn't have to be that far away, 10 m can be more than enough...

That being said: Ensuring proper focus by means of focus magnification, putting the camera on a solid tripod, activating the electronic shutter, activating the 2 sec shutter delay, and turning the lens stabilisation off should give you tack sharp images. If the air is 'clear', that is... If you are hand-holding the camera, then focus magnification + electronic shutter + lens stabilisation + shutter speed higher than 1/focal length (and certainly 1/(2 times the focal length)) should do the job. If not - get the lens checked...

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I use the large zoom for landscapes so I always use a tripod. My sharpness issues occur during windy conditions (20+mph) causing vibrations, even when using my large tripod. I am in the habit of turning off the vibration reduction when using a tripod, but next time that I am in that situation, I will try leaving it on to see if that helps. 

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Guys,

Thank you for all your suggestions. I'd completely forgotten about the electronic shutter.

I went out yesterday morning (without the kids!) and took a quick series of test shots. It was a bit hazy - but here are a set of shots at f4, f8, f16 and f22, electronic shutter and no stabilisation, manually focused. Processed in COP - no sharpening, but curve to bring in a little contrast. I am happy with the result - my initial thought that my problems were user error where correct! Although f22 does look soft.

The exercise has shown me that it takes quite a bit of care to get the shots sharp

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1/40s @ f4

and

0.1s @f8

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0.4s @ f16

&

0.8s @ f22

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Quick question - did you use any filter (Grad ND, ND) for these samples? It is a well known fact that with longer lenses filters can cause loss of sharpness, which is why Formatt-Hitech developed the Ultra line of filters (you can read about it scrolling down this page: https://www.formatt-hitech.com/blog)

Hope this helps, best regards

Vieri

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Those shutter speeds are relatively long for this lens though right? I'm surprised those are as sharp as they are, considering that. I do believe that f22 is pushing the lens too far, I never go beyond f16.

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