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I found a grain focus device with an extra long tele-type objective that permits enlarger users to step away a bit from the enlarger and still view the whole frame by moving it around. For me with a back problem it is a savior.

I add that I have two more of common short objectives, one long mirror and a short one

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Edited by pico
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13 hours ago, logan2z said:

Looks interesting.  Any info on who makes it and/or a link?h

The item is out of production, but searching for 'Micromega / Peak Long Barrel Critical Enlarging Focuser, focusing aid' might help. Good luck.

Also try the simplified google, "micromega enlarging"

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tip: These focusing aids use a long, front surface mirror which is very simple to replace. Some sellers ask over $100 for them. B&H sells the same for under $30. (The photo of the mirror shows  it up upside-down. The reflective side is beneath. Should be on the up-side.)

 

 

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19 hours ago, pico said:

The item is out of production, but searching for 'Micromega / Peak Long Barrel Critical Enlarging Focuser, focusing aid' might help. Good luck.

Also try the simplified google, "micromega enlarging"

Thanks, I'll take a look around.  In the meantime, I might pick up a Peak 2030.  Surprisingly, it's still in production.

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I wouldn't say it's not an interesting idea, but given you only need to focus the negative once it seems to me the critical focus would only be achieved by looking 'down the tube'. Back pain problems can be addressed by dropping the baseboard and sitting down, it also gives those quads a workout in standing up again..........................

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2 hours ago, 250swb said:

I wouldn't say it's not an interesting idea, but given you only need to focus the negative once it seems to me the critical focus would only be achieved by looking 'down the tube'. Back pain problems can be addressed by dropping the baseboard and sitting down, it also gives those quads a workout in standing up again..........................

The focusing device can be used to check focus over the whole image, which is good also to verify alignment. .Dropping the baseboard is a major engineering task most of us would not break our back in making one.

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I am with Pico on this: doing a lot of 20X24 prints (50X60cm), I manage to check focus but it can be difficult. I stretch to (almost) my maximum. In particular when bringing up the negative more than normal. I have the tall Patterson, but it is nowhere near as good as the Peaks are.

I use the Focomats I and IIc, and a Durst L1000 wall mounted. Dropping baseboards is no option. Maybe I am missing out on something, but no matter what you do the distance between lens and paper will remain the same. My experience is that the higher the table, the less difficult it is. I have one IIc on top of a filing cabinet that is almost one meter high (almost 40 inches) and that is the enlarger I keep in the "high" set-up . . .

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A suggestion for making large prints. Go to http://www.glennview.com/leitz.htm
and search the page for ' Leitz ventilator and spacer '. Glenn shows the different dimensions of versions..

I have one on a Valoy which also has an extended column and oversize baseboard. It allows us to use bright,
hot bulbs safely.

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Good thread - I was running into issues with the normal grain focusing devices by hitting my head a few times on the (of course already quite well focused!) enlarger lens part when moving the grain focusing device around. This longer tele-type objective would allow to keep the head outside the framed area and less bending would be required. Surprised that these devices were not more common in the past!

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Thanks, Martin. Note that the long mirror, or type 1, allows viewing along a 30º axis, and of course with the tilting objective that covers a lot of print/negative area without moving the base. The shorter types 2 and 3 offer 20º and 10º. I still find them very useful while moving the base across the easel.More here: https://www.peakoptics.com/images/pdf/PeakFocuser.pdf

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Surprised that these devices were not more common in the past!

They have always been expensive compared to others. :(

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3 hours ago, pico said:

Thanks, Martin. Note that the long mirror, or type 1, allows viewing along a 30º axis, and of course with the tilting objective that covers a lot of print/negative area without moving the base. The shorter types 2 and 3 offer 20º and 10º. I still find them very useful while moving the base across the easel.More here: https://www.peakoptics.com/images/pdf/PeakFocuser.pdf

They have always been expensive compared to others. :(

They're not that bad in the grand scheme of things. The 3 is the only one still in production and it's $97.  Not cheap but compared to camera bodies and lenses, a pretty decent bargain. 

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45 minutes ago, logan2z said:

They're not that bad in the grand scheme of things. The 3 is the only one still in production and it's $97.  Not cheap but compared to camera bodies and lenses, a pretty decent bargain. 

I agree. The darkroom is the final. last step for chemical image making and our outcomes cannot yet be realized on monitors. $97 is a bargain which pays for its self quickly. Enjoy!

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