16-35 & 24-90 focusing tips & advise please.

[MarkinVan]

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I have been ask to take some interior pictures after a major renovation.

Bokeh is easy but I want front to back detail.

Wondering about where / how to focus with  manual focus to have the maximum level of detail in the picture with the SL on a tripod in exposure bracketing mode shooting with both the 16-35 & 24-90.

F8 - F11 - wide open ?

Trying to workout & confirm how to consistently get front / back detail,  focus distance reading on the top  LCD screen to show from the closest point to the camera out to infinity at some up to 30+ feet and more importantly have the picture sharp though out.

Mostly I have been focusing at the furthest distance in the picture in my test shots but the rooms will be much bigger in the actual shoot.

 

 

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[jackson.gabriel]

I shoot lots of architectural and interior photos with the 24-90. Usually set it to ISO 50, f11 to f16. Images come out tack sharp for the whole depth if I focus on the closest worthwhile element (probably three feet or more). Although the overall sharpness (not focus depth)  starts taking a hit a few stops after f11. You have to be zoomed in quite a bit to see what I mean, but lines are less crisp and contrast is loser. Not scientific, just my observation.

Photo was shot at f11.

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Edited November 4, 2018 by jackson.gabriel

[sillbeers15]

16-35mm @ 16mm f8, focal point in the midpoint between furthest & nearest.

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L1000073 by sillbeers15

[JamesBarry]

As Jackson Gabriel said, focus on the closest worthwhile element but I also focus on the darkest closest worthwhile element when exposure bracketing (use for all internal shots).  F/8 as this seems to be the sweet spot for me with the 24-90.

This shot with SL / Sigma 12-24 Art at f/8, probably 15 or 16mm (3 shot exposure bracket)

 

 

 

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[thighslapper]

The top LCD figures make it easy and reliable ..... just dial in the distance with the focus ring so the far point is just infinity ..... or less if you want. 

My tests with the 16-35 show that f13 seems to be the point where diffraction just starts to be noticeable and really isn't that bad until f22.

On the 24-90 you can push a couple more stops without it being very noticeable.

That should give you enough leeway to have everything in focus in almost any situation, and to be honest just focussing anywhere in the mid ground at these sort of apertures will give you what you want. 

Edited November 5, 2018 by thighslapper