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1 hour ago, pop said:

Sorry, I couldn't hear what you said. I can only see what you wrote. What you wrote does not follow from my explanations.

Ok I can’t compensate for your short attention span, but if you want to kick something off with a snarky comment please don’t then cock off from taking ownership of your gobshite.

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On 11/14/2024 at 9:31 AM, chris_tribble said:

Interesting, but it looks more relevant for people with lots of roll film.  My archive is either slides or 6 frame positive or negative strips…I used the Niko LS 4000 for years, but (despite a clean and refurb) I don’t think mine can beat a DSLR scan. Looking forward to getting the JJC kit…

It can be used with cut film, even strips of four frames. I've just asked the manufacturer because I, too, presumed that it could be used with longer strips only.

That could be a game changer. It seems that it processes the negatives nearly as fast as I can feed them into the machine. I'll have to do a few tests.

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On 11/18/2024 at 4:36 AM, chris_tribble said:

Ta! 😊

Sorry this has taken so long.

I'm using my SL(601) with a Sigma 105/2.8 DN DG Art Macro lens and the JJC adapter with LED.

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The JJC kit comes with a host of adapters.  The Sigma 105/2.8 achieves 1:1.  To attach to the lens filter thread, I needed the #3 adapter, then 2x #2 extension tube and a #1 (hope that makes sense.  Not sure which lens you plan to use, but there should be the right adapter to fit the lens.

What's not shown is the USB cable as it's threaded through my desk.  I hope all that makes sense.

The kit has a 6 exposure strip holder and a slide holder.  Fitting a curling strip of film to the holder is a bit of a pain.

There are two slots in the adapter - I'm not sure there's much of a difference which you use.  I think I have used the one nearest to the lens, rather than the one near the LED box.  It's just a question of whether the lens will focus better to one or the other (I think).  I've scanned a couple of rolls, then got tied up in other things - can't comment on the quality of the results.

If you don't want to use the LED, there is a strip of opaque plastic (polycarbonate?) which fits in place of the LED box.  Haven't tried that.

I found that focus is better done manually - AF struggles a bit.  I used f/8 (I think).  I suspect anything f/4 to f/16 should be fine, depending on the lens.  The LED has brightness adjustment, if needed.

Let me know if you have any questions.

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This is really helpful.  Mine is now awaiting collection from our local Post Office (I'm away from home at the moment).  I'll post results as soon as I get back and can get things set up.  I was interested to see that a table top setup looks like the most feasible option.  I'm going to be using a Panasonic 100mm Macro f2.8 (which is nice and compact).  I'll need to see which tubes to use.  The one thing that does come to mind is that the SL3 would have an advantage here with the tiltable screen!  Heigh ho - I'll stick to SL2 for now 😉 

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Well - up and running.  Easy to set up, though the only caveat is that sometimes it's difficult to get the slide / strip acurately in the holding device.  Works most of the time though.  The set up looks as below.

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Some random examples of scans. These are all from projects done over 25 years ago...  The best thing is being able to colour correct (to some extent) and repair in LR.  Negative - Positive is an easy matter of reversing the linear tone curve in LR.  See https://www.lightroomtutorials.com/quick-tip-how-to-invert-photos-in-lightroom/

Slide film (I think Fuji 400)

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Colour negative (I think Fujichrom 400)

B&W Ilford FP4 (I think!)

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Another example from colour negative.  I continue to be pleased.  I know I'd not get such a good result from my venerable Nikon LS4000 (it's off to ebay - they still fetch a good price!). Another example here from colour negative (which I've always struggled with...)  And doesn't it remind you of how good the colour is from modern digital cameras!

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4 hours ago, chris_tribble said:

Another example from colour negative.  I continue to be pleased.  I know I'd not get such a good result from my venerable Nikon LS4000 (it's off to ebay - they still fetch a good price!). Another example here from colour negative (which I've always struggled with...)  And doesn't it remind you of how good the colour is from modern digital cameras!

I was thinking exactly the same thing, Chris.  Pleased it’s working for you.

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Glad it's working Chris and some great results. It's just my opinion but pressing 'Auto Color' in Photoshop (I guess Lightroom has it as well) cleans up the final stages of the colour balance a lot, and doing so also shows the images are maybe lacking in saturation. Even though I use Smart Convert to invert my colour negatives it's not infallible and before further editing I always press 'Auto Colour' and/or 'Auto Contrast' as a comparison test, and after editing do the same again just to check. Going back and forth pressing the button is also a good way to check if you got it right with how warm or cool you want the image to be against the neutral image that Photoshop suggests. It's like the old scanning software, it was never worth trying to make it perfect in the scan because Photoshop has a much bigger brain when it comes to sorting the histogram out and detecting problems with the colour balance.

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I’ve connected up my Perfection V700, and I now have a flashing red light around the  O/I button. No help in the manual or on the Epson website.  Any suggestions what it might mean and how I solve the issue?  It’s not scanning.

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On 12/3/2024 at 8:28 AM, IkarusJohn said:

I’ve connected up my Perfection V700, and I now have a flashing red light around the  O/I button. No help in the manual or on the Epson website.  Any suggestions what it might mean and how I solve the issue?  It’s not scanning.

I can't help from experience but have you checked that the connector for the lid is plugged in correctly? Other than that all I can suggest is standard problem determination - does the system see it OK? Can it scan reflective originals? Has it ever worked or is this your first time of trying it? And so on...

John

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