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In a certain percentage of cases, I wouldn't even meter. I don't with the 18mm Super Elmar and the few times I've used the CV 15mm f4.5 III. Outdoors in daylight and at base ISO, exposures are pretty easy to just set and shoot without referring to a meter reading at all.

 

Using a set ISO and the standard center-weighted option, scanning around and up and down the scene and watching the meter setting for the maximum and minimum values, it doesn't take a fancy multi-segment or spot metering system to come up with a good exposure, especially if you have a moment to make a quick tweek and re-shooting a second shot if the first is slightly overexposed. I don't sweat most underexposures since shadows can be pulled up so successfully.

 

If I was using an MD262 with no back LCD or shooting film, I'd just bracket three exposures and move on.

Edited by Gregm61
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I use center weighted always, if highlights are blown the histogram will indicate it and vice versa with under exposure. The real strength of the M is the simplicity of switching to manual speed to set the histogram wherever you want.

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