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There are half cases with battery doors and tripod screw mounts available that replace your bottom plate and contain a magnet that tricks the camera into thinking the base plate is present. One of those will do the trick. My favorite is the Arte di Mano version but I’ve seen others that should do the job for your application, as long as you are ok with the long exposure limitations of the M10 already mentioned.

You're great, thanks mate!

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Yeah!

I saw it and also the comment with a case is an interesting set :)

Now I need to understand what is LENR and how to bypass it.

My max exposure time is 30 seconds.

Am I right that after a shot it will take another 30 seconds to make a "black shot" in order to create one shot with such exposure?

I use M240 (which has the same black shot after each exposure) for star trail frequently. I find it more convenient than my Sony(better wide lens wide open, easier focusing than Sony). 30 sec shot with 30 sec gaps don’t create any problem in stacking and final trails look ok. In fact I do get gaps due to removing airplane streaks but even then trails are fine. It is the overall aesthetics that matter. Try it and see if you like the result. No point theoretically speculating. I also find longer than 30 min unnecessarily for good looking Star trails. This is why battery change during shoot is unnecessary.

 

Just take the camera out and give it a try.

Edited by jmahto
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  • 5 weeks later...

So, hello guys!

I am eager to purchase M10, as I have a deep passion for Milky Way photography and making timelapses about them and I am ready to switch from Canon to Leica, BUT!

 

If I put Leica M10 on a tripod, I won't be able to change battery and if it goes off, I will have to unmount camera from a tripod and in this case my timelapse won't be constant :(

Are there any plates for M10, which allow to change battery without unscrewing camera from a tripod?

 

Thanks in Advance!

 

How about that:

 

http://www.luigicases.com/a000-M-Mates-Battery-SD-change.htm

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  • 2 weeks later...

This will get you close, get a plate with a lip, I use the Markins PG-30u.  Push the lip fully against the front or back of the camera.  When you mount the plate on the tripod clamp push the plate to one side so it's lined up with the edge of the clamp, or use a hard stop such as a ruler held against the clamp and put the plate there.  Some clamps have screws that act as a safety, this will serve the same purpose.  I've used this method to keep the camera consistently positioned with subjects that may not be as demanding as you require but additional steps could be devised to make this very precise using an indexing material in the clamp

to push the plate against.

 

The RRS plate may offer a workaround also:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1337704-REG/really_right_stuff_bm10_base_plate_base_plate_for_leica.html/?ap=y&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtb_bBRCFARIsAO5fVvFJcbBGDlRaqVrLwrH1DGiLT9554NyDbUmIuqaLDZOTZ52BIfr36o8aAiCAEALw_wcB

 

My M240 has yielded great Milky Way Images, the M10 should be better.    

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Last night for the Persied meteor shower and the new moon I compared the M10 to the H1D.  In terms of noise and sharpness the M10 with 30 Cron Asph blew away the H1D with the 30mm lens.  Also, I shot both at f/4, ISO 6400, 8 secs.  The M10 had virtually NO NOISE.  I didn't use the noise reduction slider at all.  The H1D is all noise.  

 

 

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  • 5 years later...
On 6/26/2018 at 2:50 AM, pgh said:

I really couldn't imagine much of a worse primary use for a Leica than long exposure, astro photography. They simply aren't designed for what this type of use and while it's possible to some degree (not to get around your tripod problem), it's really downgrading from what you have for this specific type of work. I get why you want to ditch your Canon, but get a Sony or Nikon. Or if you have that $ to part and it's burning a hole in your pocket get a GFX or X1D.

Wish you’d told me that before I took some on my Q2

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  • 2 weeks later...

M10, 60s, ISO 400, 35mm Summilux-M ASPH (FLE) @ f/1.4, on a star tracker. 

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Have the Q2, and like the M10 ( which I’ve just brought ) it has iso restrictions, even more than the M10. It only allows 8 seconds at iso 1600. 
i initially thought this was ridiculous, but it actually worked. For those on here saying the Leica isn’t good for Astro, you simply aren’t trying. It’s very good. 
I’ve heard the iso restrictions are to prevent hot pixels, but obviously Leica never say 

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I was horrified the first time I took my brand new M10 Monochrom out for some long exposure astro shots. On paper the monochrom sensor and some of the new fast lenses should be brilliant for milky way photography but the firmware just ruins it. No way to turn off LENR and limited exposure times.... crazy. Plus the Leica lenses are just not good for astro work. Even my 50mm APO was a disappointment, lots of aberrations wide open which is a shame for such an expensive lens. They are brilliant for their size, but they do make sacrifices to be as small as they are.

 

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