Milan_S Posted January 15, 2018 Share #1  Posted January 15, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) I noticed that my images when using for example 1/50 shutterspeed with a 50mm Noctilux or even a 50 Summilux result in not the sharpest results. Something which I never encountered with the M series and with Sony A7II (image stabilisation in camera). Now I tend to shoot my SL with a minimum shutter speed of 1/80. Which result in very sharp files...  What are your experiences with SL and manual focus M lenses and the shutterspeed? Any best practices or tips are welcome! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 15, 2018 Posted January 15, 2018 Hi Milan_S, Take a look here Minimum shutterspeed for SL with M glass. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
geetee1972 Posted January 15, 2018 Share #2 Â Posted January 15, 2018 I default to 1/2f for everything but that would be the same whether I was shooting M lenses or SL lenses. The old reciprocal 1/f rule is, I think, less applicable to the way people shoot digital even with IBIS if you're shooting people. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darylgo Posted January 15, 2018 Share #3 Â Posted January 15, 2018 Tripod sharp results require 1/250 for 50mm lenses in my personal shooting. Otherwise, if I shoot 3 images, one will be sharper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frame-it Posted January 15, 2018 Share #4 Â Posted January 15, 2018 in daylight i never go below 1/160...usually stay at 1/200 or 1/250..and at night try and keep 1/320 with ISO 1600 MAX Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geetee1972 Posted January 15, 2018 Share #5 Â Posted January 15, 2018 I default to 1/2f for everything but that would be the same whether I was shooting M lenses or SL lenses. The old reciprocal 1/f rule is, I think, less applicable to the way people shoot digital even with IBIS if you're shooting people. Â I should add as a minimum - I only have one lens (50mm) and pretty much default to 1/125th as the minimum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmradman Posted January 15, 2018 Share #6  Posted January 15, 2018 For me it is 1/250 sec for any M lens, auto ISO does the rest. Almost always satisfied with the image sharpness.  Some people claim steady hands, desirable trait for a surgeon or dentist [few of those here on LUF], maybe steady handers don't pixel peep or print small size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted January 15, 2018 Share #7  Posted January 15, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hand-holding steadiness depends on a lot of things, most them them having to do with you and your shooting technique. The SL is a very differently shaped camera than the M, technique alone could account for the difference.  Regards shutter speed and ISO: I've found that 1/f works fine most of the time for me, when using AutoISO, but as I've grown older and more prone to getting tired, setting 1/2f is safer. When using fixed ISO settings (most of the time), I find that 1/2f is generally about right too.  Beyond that, I take out a camera support or tripod.  enjoy!  "My sharpest lens is a sturdy tripod." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted January 15, 2018 Share #8  Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Good lord .... you all need to drink more to steady your nerves ...... I suggest a couple of stiff shots in the morning coffee !  I manage 1/30 with shake free results at 50mm but usually have 1/f set on the camera. I use silly low speeds with w/a lenses.  I have just run a series of checks and images at 1/30 are identical to 1/200 so I am not deluding myself.  However I have spent many years doing surgery and longbow archery .... which require absolute steadiness/control .... and latterly jewellery making/stone setting/micro laser welding under 5x and 10x magnification...... so it's not surprising I have a steady hand Edited January 15, 2018 by thighslapper 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrp Posted January 15, 2018 Share #9  Posted January 15, 2018 Here’s some empirical evidence that you need 1/2f on a 24mpx sensor without ibis. http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted January 15, 2018 Share #10  Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Here’s some empirical evidence that you need 1/2f on a 24mpx sensor without ibis. http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/ Cobblers.  You would need the results from a hundred different photographers to achieve a meaningful results and indicate minimum, maximum and average speed to avoid shake. One mans personal results count for nothing.  The mass, inertia and balance of the lens/camera combo also play a big part, as does technique and experience.  I would suggest each user spend half a hour carrying out some tests to establish their own personal requirements rather than relying on pearls of wisdom from others ....... Edited January 15, 2018 by thighslapper 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted January 16, 2018 Share #11  Posted January 16, 2018 Good lord .... you all need to drink more to steady your nerves ...... I suggest a couple of stiff shots in the morning coffee !  I manage 1/30 with shake free results at 50mm but usually have 1/f set on the camera. I use silly low speeds with w/a lenses.  I have just run a series of checks and images at 1/30 are identical to 1/200 so I am not deluding myself.  However I have spent many years doing surgery and longbow archery .... which require absolute steadiness/control .... and latterly jewellery making/stone setting/micro laser welding under 5x and 10x magnification...... so it's not surprising I have a steady hand   LOL!  I suspect the issue isn't that I can't get a good photograph at 1/15 second (I can), it's what I consider to be "shake free images" on close inspection.  I know for a fact that I get FAR sharper images every time I fit the camera to a tripod than I ever can holding it in my hands, including at 1/2000 second. But sharpness alone doesn't make a great photograph. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mich Posted January 16, 2018 Share #12  Posted January 16, 2018 I noticed that my images when using for example 1/50 shutterspeed with a 50mm Noctilux or even a 50 Summilux result in not the sharpest results. Something which I never encountered with the M series and with Sony A7II (image stabilisation in camera). Now I tend to shoot my SL with a minimum shutter speed of 1/80. Which result in very sharp files...  What are your experiences with SL and manual focus M lenses and the shutterspeed? Any best practices or tips are welcome! If I would take pictures of one of your models, I probably had a shaking camera with 1/1000 ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antigallican Posted January 16, 2018 Share #13 Â Posted January 16, 2018 I default to 1/2f for everything but that would be the same whether I was shooting M lenses or SL lenses. The old reciprocal 1/f rule is, I think, less applicable to the way people shoot digital even with IBIS if you're shooting people. So you use 180th with a 90mm lens? I think I am probably about there too, but didn't yet come up with a formula. I think with the lens gyro in the 24-90 I would probably go down to a 90th but not really less with any confidence. Of course with flash it's a different matter... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milan_S Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share #14 Â Posted January 17, 2018 If I would take pictures of one of your models, I probably had a shaking camera with 1/1000 ... Haha great one, thank you all for the nice replies! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistairm Posted January 18, 2018 Share #15 Â Posted January 18, 2018 Â I would suggest each user spend half a hour carrying out some tests to establish their own personal requirements rather than relying on pearls of wisdom from others ....... Fantastic advice. It is highly personal. As is the trade off between tac sharpness / high ISO image degradation in low light. Indeed, it may even change from day to day, depending on coffee consumption etc. Â For me, avoiding subject movement usually limits me more than the ability to handhold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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