maximilianm3 Posted September 11, 2017 Share #1 Posted September 11, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) I was lucky and picked up a Focomat a couple of days ago. Somebody threw it away and i thought anything with LEITZ WETZLAR written on it is too good to to pass on. It is definitley in rough condition, but seems complete apart from the 'slide-ruler' thing on the base plate. Is there any way i can quickly check if it's worth fixing up or not? I can't check the light bulb as the cables have disintegrated. I did some quick search on the internet and it seems to be an early version. The lens says VAROB and seems to need a good clean, but otherwise quite ok. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 11, 2017 Posted September 11, 2017 Hi maximilianm3, Take a look here Focomat. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
M.Hilo Posted September 18, 2017 Share #2 Posted September 18, 2017 The only way to find out if it's worth fixing up or not is to make some prints with it. Just fix a new electric cord to the top half, but instead of renewing all the wiring just connect that new cord directly into your timer. Then you can print. I would take out the condenser and clean both sides (warm water with dishwasher soap, warm rinse, dry with soft cloth). And clean the lens. You will find out if the automatic focus works (you will always need to check focus with a grain focuser) - you will find out if the illumination is even - you should be able to get an idea of it all. Is it complete with negative holder and anti newton glass fixed to the condenser ? If all looks positive, it is not difficult to re-wire, to clean it and treat the metal, the chrome and the wood with the right stuff . . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted September 18, 2017 Share #3 Posted September 18, 2017 Focomats are wonderful enlargers, so don't give up easily. Wiring is fixable. If you find that the autofocus does not seem to be working, that is probably not a problem - it can be adjusted. You don't say which focomat you have - there was a 1a, 1b (rare), and 1c. Your VAROB lens is an early lens (1930s), so you may have a 1a. The nicest is the 1c, but they are all great. The missing "slide ruler" gizmo is no big deal either. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maximilianm3 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share #4 Posted September 18, 2017 i think it's a Focomat a. just for the info, i don't have a darkroom or any knowledge whatsoever of how to use this thing..... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/276737-focomat/?do=findComment&comment=3361322'>More sharing options...
maximilianm3 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share #5 Posted September 18, 2017 Another one, and thanks for your replies. As far as i can tell the slide holder is there and complete. The autofocus system seems to be seized, but i think a bit of wd40 will fix that. As you can see, the chrome is mostly peeled of so not much i can do about that. What/where is the condenser and what/where is the anti newton glass? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/276737-focomat/?do=findComment&comment=3361325'>More sharing options...
maximilianm3 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share #6 Posted September 18, 2017 ok, found the anti newton glass,it's just dusty.... i also attached a (bad) picture of the negative holder..the dark thingy was in there, it's a plastic see through thing with a 'frame' that says Microlux Spéciatés Tirant. I presume it was to test focus or sharpness... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/276737-focomat/?do=findComment&comment=3361329'>More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted September 18, 2017 Share #7 Posted September 18, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Almost certainly a 1a. That's no problem. The later ones have some upgrades that are nice but not crucial. A good cleaning is certainly needed. Your base board is rough but probably usable. I would wash it thoroughly and probably paint it. Or you could replace it using 3/4 inch plywood. But try to save it. The negative carrier looks funny - the hole doesn't look like a 35mm format. Someone else may have an idea. For the focusing mechanism, try cleaning it (ammonia maybe?) and then lubricate with a light machine oil (around here we have "3-in-1" brand). I would not use WD-40. Part of the autofocus mechanism is a follow cam on the back right. Once things are moving smoothly again, that cam is adjustable to assure that the autofocus works correctly. There is also a friction locking mechanism to hold the head in place as you adjust the height - keep oil off this stuff - it is not intended to slide - exactly the opposite. Someone here may have an instruction booklet for the 1a. I have one for the 1c, but I suspect that much is the same. If you need it, send me a message and I can email it to you. The enlarger may be a fixer-upper, but probably worth it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted October 14, 2017 Share #8 Posted October 14, 2017 Hoppes gun oil is best. Orange bottle with flip spout lid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 14, 2017 Share #9 Posted October 14, 2017 Hoppes gun oil is best. Orange bottle with flip spout lid. Well that is a novel solution. I'll have to try it! . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemgb Posted October 15, 2017 Share #10 Posted October 15, 2017 Hoppes #9 is a cleaning solvent but it has no lubricants. It can also leave a film that turns to glue if you use too much and allow it to dry on the component. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted November 4, 2017 Share #11 Posted November 4, 2017 Hoppes #9 is a cleaning solvent but it has no lubricants. It can also leave a film that turns to glue if you use too much and allow it to dry on the component. Been using it for decades without issue. Light sewing machine oil or 3 in one should also work. I have recently found garage door lube in spray with spout nozzle can at Home Depot. It has freed up things nothing else could do. Force the spout in before using because once you get lub in the nozzle , the tube will not stick. I belive it to be a combination of solvents and lube. I recently used it for a very expensive lock on my shed. WD40 which is common recommendation from locksmiths is ok, but the door lube made it operate like a Rolex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted November 7, 2017 Share #12 Posted November 7, 2017 I have a few Focomats and a Valoy; my major concern is the condensers - are they in good condition? Chips or minor fractures due to transport accidents are my greatest concerns. That said, I still use one with a slightly chipped condenser and will continue until I find a replacement. Focomat and Valoy enlargers are so very good when the condenser is okay. Regarding the baseboard, a trip to a large home supply store for a butcher-block slab can make it all good. The original Leitz lenses for the Focomats like yours are not so good. I used Nikkors. Best of luck! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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