charlesphoto99 Posted June 26, 2007 Share #21 Posted June 26, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) An easy way to get bluer skies is with something like the target luminosity tool in Lightroom. I think that except for erasing reflections (would like to see an example of that here) that the age of digital correction has pretty much done away with the need for polarizers (an always clunky tool for everday shooting imho). So much more can be done now than could before with slide film (you get what you get the first time) or trad type C prinitng (limited contrast control and color shifts when burning). My opinion only of course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 26, 2007 Posted June 26, 2007 Hi charlesphoto99, Take a look here Has anyone used a polarizer on M8?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
robsteve Posted June 26, 2007 Share #22 Posted June 26, 2007 What mode were you shooting, DNG or JPEG? Obviously, there was not much time elapsed between your two shots. You must work quickly to orient the polarity of the filter, mount it, and shoot. The difference in time could have accounted for the differences spotted in the appearance of the water. I was using the Leica Universal polarizer. It stays attached to the lens and pivots up in front of the viewfinder to set the polarization and you then pivot it back in front of the lens to take the picture. I was shooting DNG and used Lightroom to convert. Both pictures were converted at the standard settings except I set the white balance of both pictures to identical settings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsteve Posted June 26, 2007 Share #23 Posted June 26, 2007 An easy way to get bluer skies is with something like the target luminosity tool in Lightroom. I think that except for erasing reflections (would like to see an example of that here) that the age of digital correction has pretty much done away with the need for polarizers (an always clunky tool for everday shooting imho). So much more can be done now than could before with slide film (you get what you get the first time) or trad type C prinitng (limited contrast control and color shifts when burning). My opinion only of course. Charles: I like what the polarizer does for the trees. The evergreens look much better when polarized. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philinflash Posted June 26, 2007 Share #24 Posted June 26, 2007 I was using the Leica Universal polarizer. It stays attached to the lens and pivots up in front of the viewfinder to set the polarization and you then pivot it back in front of the lens to take the picture. ... Thanks; that certainly explains the quick change phenomenon. While I like what polarizers do for images in certain situations, the Leica Universal sounds more cumbersome than I could tolerate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsteve Posted June 26, 2007 Share #25 Posted June 26, 2007 Thanks; that certainly explains the quick change phenomenon. While I like what polarizers do for images in certain situations, the Leica Universal sounds more cumbersome than I could tolerate. It is actually pretty slick in use. If you are budget minded, the older Leica flip out polarizers can be found for $75. They clamp on to the 39mm filter sized lenses in the place of the hood. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted June 27, 2007 Share #26 Posted June 27, 2007 If you are budget minded, the older Leica flip out polarizers can be found for $75. They clamp on to the 39mm filter sized lenses in the place of the hood. Robert Sorry if I am wrong and slightly off the original post but, doesn't the M8 require a Circular Polarizer? If so, the older Leica flip-out one is a Linear Type Polarizer and might not produce the right effect. Also, when buying the old Leica Polarizer, watch out for separation - most will suffer from it. I replaced my separated glass with a new filter glass from a Hoya Polarizer; I believe I used one from a 48mm filter, removed it from the Hoya mount and installed it into the Leica mount. Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsteve Posted June 27, 2007 Share #27 Posted June 27, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sorry if I am wrong and slightly off the original post but, doesn't the M8 require a Circular Polarizer? If so, the older Leica flip-out one is a Linear Type Polarizer and might not produce the right effect. Also, when buying the old Leica Polarizer, watch out for separation - most will suffer from it. I replaced my separated glass with a new filter glass from a Hoya Polarizer; I believe I used one from a 48mm filter, removed it from the Hoya mount and installed it into the Leica mount. Best, Jan Jan: It shouldn't need a circular polarizer. There are no AF sensors or as in the case of the Leica SLRs, the light metering diodes are not behind a half silvered mirror. The Leica SlRs required the circular polarizer because the half silvering of the mirror polarized the light hitting the metering cell and a linear polarizer would affect the metering. I don't even think the current Leica universal polarizer is a circular polarizer. I checked the manual for the Universal Polarizer and there was no mention of it being a circular polarizer. I haven't checked the M8 manual to see if there is any mention of which type of polarizing filter to use with the M8. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted June 27, 2007 Share #28 Posted June 27, 2007 Hi Robert, That is why I started my post by "I might be wrong, but....." Cheers, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted July 5, 2007 Share #29 Posted July 5, 2007 I used the polars extensively while on my recent trip to the Pyrenees and found it to be very worthwhile for landscapes & skies... The polar effects cannot be duplicated in CS3 or LR. Decreasing luminance in the sky also decreases the luminance of all other midtones. It is really not that selective. Anyway, if you need it jsut leave it on top of the UV/IR filter all the time as I do... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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