New to SL and need help with setting the camera up

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

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Okay,

So I just bought a new SL and a new Noctilux 0.95. I know it will come with a user manual but what I am looking for is tips on how to best set up my camera for everyday shooting. I have a S007 so I am failure with the menu system.

On my S007 I surely set it up when walking around auto ISO3200 and play with aperture as and when needed. What max ISO would you recommend to use with the SL especially with the Noctilux mostly shot at 0.95...........hopefully not to high

My plan is to use the SL 99% of the time with the Noctilux 

 

Any tips help will be much appreciated 

 

Neil

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[steppenw0lf]

I try to stay under 1600 ISO, or 6400 at night.

But with a Noctilux you need just small ISOs like 200 or 400.

At the beginning you can use AutoISO, and then see what the camera offers (often ISO50).

 

There were recommendations how to setup the programmable buttons (what functions to put on them). The threads were mostly active at the beginning of the year and after the 2.0 firmware.

 

This is the latest I found: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/266304-how-are-you-using-th-user-profiles-are-you-using/

There are earlier ones with more examples.

 

Here another:   http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/263427-setting-up-the-sl/

 

 

If you hate reading all that stuff just put a lens on the SL and try it. By default it is working very well. And you can later take the time to customize it, while sitting under the X-mas tree.

 

P.S: first learn how to use the charger of the battery - but I assume it is very similar to what you already have. (If both lights are constantly on, the battery is full - after about 3 hours. If only the green light is on then it's about 80% full - after about 1 hour.)

[ramarren]

So I just bought a new SL and a new Noctilux 0.95. I know it will come with a user manual but what I am looking for is tips on how to best set up my camera for everyday shooting. I have a S007 so I am familiar with the menu system.

On my S007 I surely set it up when walking around auto ISO3200 and play with aperture as and when needed. What max ISO would you recommend to use with the SL especially with the Noctilux mostly shot at 0.95...........hopefully not to high

...

 

 

What specific lens you plan to use most of the time is irrelevant. The divide is between dedicated lenses and adapted, manual lenses. 

1. If you're familiar with the 'short press'—'long press' design center of the SL's controls already, and how to customize the 'long press' button functions to suit your tastes, then you're already 95% of the way there. Go through the configuration menus, configure the buttons to suit your desires, and set that as your first user config. (I always do this by going to the back of the instruction manual were you get the lists of all the menu options and configuration options, as well as notes about what are the defaults, and working through the settings from there.)
2. Remember that with adapted manual lenses, AF options aren't available so just ignore and/or remove those options from customizations and favorites menu so that they don't clutter things up. Also, with manual lenses, you have only Aperture Priority and Manual exposure modes, so ignore anything that relates only to Program or Shutter priority modes. If your M lens is six bit coded, the SL will set the lens profile automatically and you cannot change that—so one less thing to have to think about. 
3. There's a standing bug with the latest firmware with regard to the base ISO limit setting in AutoISO: when you move it off the ISO 50 minimum, the AutoISO system gets wonky and won't give you the full range. So just leave the base ISO setting at 50. I've gotten clean results with ISO 20,000 (clean for my purposes, anyway, with a pleasing noise pattern) so I'm pretty cavalier about leaving the AutoISO top limit at 6400 or even higher. Of course, for the lowest noise images, stick to something lower. 
4. The SL's auto exposure system behaves a bit differently from the M and other cameras that I've owned: If AutoISO is enabled, the camera will enforce the rule of how to shift the ISO and control the shutter speed in low-light situations. For example: if you're using a 50mm lens and you have the rule set to use 1/f as the minimum shutter speed, the lens is wide open, the ISO has hit the maximum setting, and the meter reads anything that will be properly exposed to require longer than 1/50 second, the SL will enforce the rule and underexpose the image. It won't give you any warning in the viewfinder that it's going to underexpose unless you think to go to exposure simulation mode. The only way to get proper exposure in this circumstance is to either go to M mode or switch to a fixed ISO setting in Aperture mode, where other cameras will auto-extend the shutter time setting to accommodate the 'out of range' reading. (This is why I tend to set ISO 400 or ISO 800 as my preferred sensitivity most of the time and don't use AutoISO much ... I find it easier to just keep my eye on the exposure time and bump up the ISO when needed, or run a longer than ideal shutter time.) 
5. Note that in M exposure mode, the camera will always operate at the ISO/shutter/aperture settings you input without regard for the Exposure Compensation setting. You use the EC setting to adjust the viewfinder brightness in dark situations when the EVFs auto-compensation function goes out of range. Also, in M exposure mode you can use AutoISO and net a 'shutter and aperture fixed-ISO variable' mode operation ... and this works well, as long as you watch what the cameras doing and don't go out of range of the ISO to compensation as light changes. (It's particularly useful to set M mode, set a shutter speed and aperture for the average light you're in when street shooting/etc, and just let the ISO slide around a bit automatically allowing you to maintain a constant focus zone and constant amount of camera/subject motion blur...) 

Once you come up with the exposure settings and ISO settings you want for various circumstances, add the one you want most of the time to the first User config, then reset to the others, one at a time, and save them as your other user configs. After you've done that, Export the user configs. That way you can play around with settings to your heart's content, manipulate the user configs on the fly, and always get back to a standard set of configurations when you've forgotten what the baseline details might have been.

 

The SL is a great camera. And damn beautiful too. 

[MT0227]

Neil.

 

When using the SL with M lenses, some  functions are not available.  Here was my starting point:

 

> Start by getting used to navigating the menus when in the menus and in live view.  Short press, long hold, what is visible in the display.

> I'd read up on the Capture Assistants section for Focus Peaking...etc.

 

1) I set to floating/auto ISO to 50min - 6400max; pick your desired slowest shutter speed..ex 1/f, 1/60...etc

 

2) I also shoot 99% of the time in A mode; read up on how the SL interprets the aperture reading when using non SL lenses.  You may find the aperture you are using may not match how the SL displays it.

 

3) Put on your Nocti and choose you favorites from the available items not grayed out.

> I have the following Favorites: (1) Drive Mode, (2) Exposure Metering, (3) Exposure Compensation, (4) Photo Aspect Ratio; (5) Format, (6) User Profile, (7) Auto ISO Settings.

 

4) You can then assign the functions above, and others, to the 4 buttons, that surround the display.  These function are enabled by a long hold.

> I set upper left to drive mode; lower left to White Balance; upper right to ISO adjustment; lower left to Exposure metering.  I left the front function button as Gray Card.   You can set the camera up to view the menu in the VF while making these menu switches. 

 

5) Once you are happy, set it as your default profile and start shooting.

 

Enjoy

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

What specific lens you plan to use most of the time is irrelevant. The divide is between dedicated lenses and adapted, manual lenses. 

1. If you're familiar with the 'short press'—'long press' design center of the SL's controls already, and how to customize the 'long press' button functions to suit your tastes, then you're already 95% of the way there. Go through the configuration menus, configure the buttons to suit your desires, and set that as your first user config. (I always do this by going to the back of the instruction manual were you get the lists of all the menu options and configuration options, as well as notes about what are the defaults, and working through the settings from there.)
2. Remember that with adapted manual lenses, AF options aren't available so just ignore and/or remove those options from customizations and favorites menu so that they don't clutter things up. Also, with manual lenses, you have only Aperture Priority and Manual exposure modes, so ignore anything that relates only to Program or Shutter priority modes. If your M lens is six bit coded, the SL will set the lens profile automatically and you cannot change that—so one less thing to have to think about. 
3. There's a standing bug with the latest firmware with regard to the base ISO limit setting in AutoISO: when you move it off the ISO 50 minimum, the AutoISO system gets wonky and won't give you the full range. So just leave the base ISO setting at 50. I've gotten clean results with ISO 20,000 (clean for my purposes, anyway, with a pleasing noise pattern) so I'm pretty cavalier about leaving the AutoISO top limit at 6400 or even higher. Of course, for the lowest noise images, stick to something lower. 
4. The SL's auto exposure system behaves a bit differently from the M and other cameras that I've owned: If AutoISO is enabled, the camera will enforce the rule of how to shift the ISO and control the shutter speed in low-light situations. For example: if you're using a 50mm lens and you have the rule set to use 1/f as the minimum shutter speed, the lens is wide open, the ISO has hit the maximum setting, and the meter reads anything that will be properly exposed to require longer than 1/50 second, the SL will enforce the rule and underexpose the image. It won't give you any warning in the viewfinder that it's going to underexpose unless you think to go to exposure simulation mode. The only way to get proper exposure in this circumstance is to either go to M mode or switch to a fixed ISO setting in Aperture mode, where other cameras will auto-extend the shutter time setting to accommodate the 'out of range' reading. (This is why I tend to set ISO 400 or ISO 800 as my preferred sensitivity most of the time and don't use AutoISO much ... I find it easier to just keep my eye on the exposure time and bump up the ISO when needed, or run a longer than ideal shutter time.) 
5. Note that in M exposure mode, the camera will always operate at the ISO/shutter/aperture settings you input without regard for the Exposure Compensation setting. You use the EC setting to adjust the viewfinder brightness in dark situations when the EVFs auto-compensation function goes out of range. Also, in M exposure mode you can use AutoISO and net a 'shutter and aperture fixed-ISO variable' mode operation ... and this works well, as long as you watch what the cameras doing and don't go out of range of the ISO to compensation as light changes. (It's particularly useful to set M mode, set a shutter speed and aperture for the average light you're in when street shooting/etc, and just let the ISO slide around a bit automatically allowing you to maintain a constant focus zone and constant amount of camera/subject motion blur...) 

Once you come up with the exposure settings and ISO settings you want for various circumstances, add the one you want most of the time to the first User config, then reset to the others, one at a time, and save them as your other user configs. After you've done that, Export the user configs. That way you can play around with settings to your heart's content, manipulate the user configs on the fly, and always get back to a standard set of configurations when you've forgotten what the baseline details might have been.

 

The SL is a great camera. And damn beautiful too. 

 

Marren

Thanks a lot buddy, that is a huge help for me. I use my Nikon D5 in Manual and set ISO to say 6400 and just play with aperture and shutter speed as and when I see fit.......just like what you mentioned above.

I guess in M mode you have a exposure bar at the bottom where you can under or over expose as and when requires?

Thanks again

 

Neil

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Neil.

 

When using the SL with M lenses, some  functions are not available.  Here was my starting point:

 

> Start by getting used to navigating the menus when in the menus and in live view.  Short press, long hold, what is visible in the display.

> I'd read up on the Capture Assistants section for Focus Peaking...etc.

 

1) I set to floating/auto ISO to 50min - 6400max; pick your desired slowest shutter speed..ex 1/f, 1/60...etc

 

2) I also shoot 99% of the time in A mode; read up on how the SL interprets the aperture reading when using non SL lenses.  You may find the aperture you are using may not match how the SL displays it.

 

3) Put on your Nocti and choose you favorites from the available items not grayed out.

> I have the following Favorites: (1) Drive Mode, (2) Exposure Metering, (3) Exposure Compensation, (4) Photo Aspect Ratio; (5) Format, (6) User Profile, (7) Auto ISO Settings.

 

4) You can then assign the functions above, and others, to the 4 buttons, that surround the display.  These function are enabled by a long hold.

> I set upper left to drive mode; lower left to White Balance; upper right to ISO adjustment; lower left to Exposure metering.  I left the front function button as Gray Card.   You can set the camera up to view the menu in the VF while making these menu switches. 

 

5) Once you are happy, set it as your default profile and start shooting.

 

Enjoy

Thanks Marc.

I forgot about the Capture assistants ...............for me I find the red focus peaking works best for me. Im trying to think, on my S007 if I grab the focus ring it automatically zooms in and I dont like that especially if using manual lenses. if I remember rightly you can disable that in the menu.

Thanks again for the input

 

Neil

[ramarren]

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Marren

Thanks a lot buddy, that is a huge help for me. I use my Nikon D5 in Manual and set ISO to say 6400 and just play with aperture and shutter speed as and when I see fit.......just like what you mentioned above.

I guess in M mode you have a exposure bar at the bottom where you can under or over expose as and when requires?

 

Glad to help.

Yes, you set exposure using the metering indicator at the bottom of the display. IIRC, the metering indicator also shows you how much you've tweaked the display brightness (using the EC control) with a second dot on the scale.

[MT0227]

Hi Ramarren....what do you mean by "tweaked the display brightness"?  I thought the second dot is the actual EC you are applying in your final exposure which can be previewed in the VF with a half depress?  

 

Glad to help.
Yes, you set exposure using the metering indicator at the bottom of the display. IIRC, the metering indicator also shows you how much you've tweaked the display brightness (using the EC control) with a second dot on the scale.

[ramarren]

Hi Ramarren....what do you mean by "tweaked the display brightness"?  I thought the second dot is the actual EC you are applying in your final exposure which can be previewed in the VF with a half depress?  

 

In Manual exposure mode, when you're not using AutoISO, the Exposure Compensation system is inactive since the camera makes the exposure at the ISO/aperture/shutter time settings you've set regardless of what the EC setting is. The EC system tweaks the display brightness instead. In auto exposure modes, including Manual exposure used with AutoISO, the second dot indicates the EC being applied. 

 

At least that what it seems to be doing when I muck with it. When I tweak the display brightness and it's much brighter than the actual exposure, half-pressing the shutter release (or going to exposure simulation) shows no change. 

 

In a sense, the EC control system in Manual/fixed ISO mode works nicely if you like to set exposure based on the viewfinder brightness. Tweak the EC setting to get the viewfinder into the right ballpark, then adjust exposure so that the EC dot on the scale is aligned to your exposure settings. Then what the camera captures and what you see in the viewfinder will match. 

[MT0227]

Your post above got me interested; I will give it some time tomorrow and make some tests shots.  I can tell you that in manual exp mode/fixed iso/fixed shutter...I found that a half depress gives me the final exposure and there was a change in display brightness with the half depress of the shutter release.   Maybe a setting issue?   I'm still new at this I will take notes tomorrow.

 

In Manual exposure mode, when you're not using AutoISO, the Exposure Compensation system is inactive since the camera makes the exposure at the ISO/aperture/shutter time settings you've set regardless of what the EC setting is. The EC system tweaks the display brightness instead. In auto exposure modes, including Manual exposure used with AutoISO, the second dot indicates the EC being applied. 

 

At least that what it seems to be doing when I muck with it. When I tweak the display brightness and it's much brighter than the actual exposure, half-pressing the shutter release (or going to exposure simulation) shows no change. 

 

In a sense, the EC control system in Manual/fixed ISO mode works nicely if you like to set exposure based on the viewfinder brightness. Tweak the EC setting to get the viewfinder into the right ballpark, then adjust exposure so that the EC dot on the scale is aligned to your exposure settings. Then what the camera captures and what you see in the viewfinder will match. 

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Can we move the focus point around when using AF lenses? On my S007 you cannot and its a PITA but workable

[FlashGordonPhotography]

Can we move the focus point around when using AF lenses? On my S007 you cannot and its a PITA but workable

 

Yep. Absolutely. With the joystick or touch screen. And you can move the magnification point for your M and R lenses to anywhere on the screen as well. The downside is that with manual lenses it resets to the centre after each shot.

 

Gordon

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

I just took delivery of my SL and Noctilux. Question

How can I see the focus peaking in the viewfinder. I can zoom in and focus peaking is on but can't see the peaking. I'm using a Noctilux on the body??

Thanks in advance

 

Neil

[Chaemono]

I just took delivery of my SL and Noctilux. Question

How can I see the focus peaking in the viewfinder. I can zoom in and focus peaking is on but can't see the peaking. I'm using a Noctilux on the body??

Thanks in advance

 

Neil 

Ok, focus peaking is on but you can't see it. In addition, you must also choose the Display Option "Focus Peaking". Focus peaking won't show in the other Display Options like "Histogram and clipping/zebra" or "Grid and horizon".

[Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS]

Ok, focus peaking is on but you can't see it. In addition, you must also choose the Display Option "Focus Peaking". Focus peaking won't show in the other Display Options like "Histogram and clipping/zebra" or "Grid and horizon".

fantastic thanks mate

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[profus]

And you can move the magnification point for your M and R lenses to anywhere on the screen as well. The downside is that with manual lenses it resets to the centre after each shot.

 

Gordon

 

And that is the most important thing to me to be addressed in any given future fw update