Baxter Posted June 10, 2007 Share #1 Posted June 10, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am hoping someone might be able to offer tips on how to complete this task successfully. Having read the main thread several times, I've tried unsuccessfully to code the Biogon 28mm lens using permanent felt tip marker and yesterday tried black nail varnish. In the UK, I have not sourced a 'Sharpie' brand pen, but have got fine permanent OHP marker and other makes. None have worked. The nail varnish, applied with a 0000 brush looks darker. I was successful, first attempt, with my Zeiss ZM Planar 50mm and the nail varnish. Initially I marked position of the sensor on the edge of the camera with fine marker pen, then made corresponding lines on the side of the lenses before making black marks on the face of the lens mounts. This seemed to offer less ambiuity than the template which was hard to place correctly in consistent manner. This is frustrating since the coding is probably more relevant to the wider lens and more so, now that my IR/UV filters have arrived and I want to maximise performance of the camera and lenses. _____ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 10, 2007 Posted June 10, 2007 Hi Baxter, Take a look here Help please! Difficulty hand coding Zeiss ZM 28mm. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
James Mitchell Posted June 10, 2007 Share #2 Posted June 10, 2007 I coded mine easily using a Sharpie. Just a block of slashes right next to one of the flange screws--following the code of the 28/2.8 Elmarit ASPH. This was the easiest lens for me to hand code. Begin the block of black right next to the screw, using the template available online. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baxter Posted June 11, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted June 11, 2007 Thanks James, I shall have to recheck alignment as my left hand bar is actually over the screw hole. This tied in with location when using template too. Confess to being slightly confused since positioning is fine for the 50mm lens. Wish that others felt able to share their experiences - 96 views yet just one reply... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted June 11, 2007 Share #4 Posted June 11, 2007 I share your pain After having coded assorted leicas and a CV 15mm by hand, my current Zeiss 21mm has completely defeated me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sirvine Posted June 11, 2007 Share #5 Posted June 11, 2007 I handcoded this lens. If I recall correctly, the left line runs just left of the flange screw, and the other line runs directly over the screw. I used a Sharpie pen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baxter Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share #6 Posted June 12, 2007 Thanks guys. Am intending to have another look this evening, once I've got a chance to sit down and ensure it all lines up properly. Incidentally how long does the 'Sharpie' ink last before having to reapply? When I was using marker pen, it seemed to scratch off easily when mounting the lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewG Posted June 12, 2007 Share #7 Posted June 12, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just wondering if anyone know the website with pictures of what the lenses should look like after coding? I to have the Zeiss 28mm and the 50mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 12, 2007 Share #8 Posted June 12, 2007 Just wondering if anyone know the website with pictures of what the lenses should look like after coding? I to have the Zeiss 28mm and the 50mm Well, this is what the 21 looks like..As you see there is a screw hole in a strategic spot. It can be read as black by the camea. Fill it out with white paint before coding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseelig Posted June 12, 2007 Share #9 Posted June 12, 2007 I filled my screw whole with a piece of tape not permanent but it works fine and no need to remove paint if the lens needs work. I was wondering about white out remeber before computers, instead of paint more permaent but more easily gotten rid of if the lens needs work then paint. The sccrew does not get read on my 25 zeiss but does on the 21 because the screw is where the black wold be for the 28 coding . David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baxter Posted June 12, 2007 Author Share #10 Posted June 12, 2007 Bingo! The photo was really helpful Jaap, in conjunction with James' advice, having noted that my middle black line was to right of the screw hole. I erased the black mark over the screw hole before adding one to the RHS. Let nail varnish dry for a decent while and it coded up as 28mm straight away. Thanks to all who helped solve the issue for me and may help others in a similar boat. After all this, getting the camera/lens system to work as advertised, I wonder if I will see any actual improvement to my pictures? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Mitchell Posted June 12, 2007 Share #11 Posted June 12, 2007 Yes. Fill in one more hole toward the screw--just up against it--and you get the 28/2.8 coding. It's easy to do on the Zeiss just by eyeing from the screw and adding a touch more away from the screw until it is read as a 28/2.8. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Metroman Posted June 16, 2007 Share #12 Posted June 16, 2007 Baxter: got mine here: XFast Direct Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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