Focus adjustment on LENS

[ralphh]

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You are mistaken - there are plenty of competent third-party technicians who can do the job quickly and affordably.

 

No, they said assuming i'm not mistaken it needs a trip to germany - ie they don't believe there's anything wrong with it, but if it is, Leica UK cannot fix it.

 

I've already had an independant quote for £80, so I'll have it done in the UK if I do.  I may try the EVF first - tbh I'm not 100% confident in my ability to focus it using the RF even once it is right.

 

 

I also decided that the EVF is the cheapest solution. But more then the price for the calibration hurts to be without the cameras for weeks. And sometimes calibration failed and then it starts all over again.

Focussing with the EVF worked for me, but then you have all disadvantages of it. Live View needs some extra energy and it is to slow if you want to shot things that are moving. After you take a picture it feels like eternity until the EVF shows something again. Some reported that the risk of camera-freezes also rises with EVF. Haven't had this, but I don't use it so often.

It is OK if you have enough time to focus.

A calibrated lens would be better, for sure

 

 

 

I'm not sure I'm competent enough with an RF to focus a 90mm on a moving subject.  So long as I don't have to zoom in to check focus I'll be ok with the EVF

Edited July 5, 2016 by ralphh

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[fotomas]

You can setup the camera to automatically zoom in as soon you focus. This worked quite comfortable for me. If you push the release-button half way you see the whole frame again.

I don't meant following fast moving objects. I was on a vernissage with several persons speaking. They where moving slightly so that you always have to refocus with the 2,0/90 mm. Worked out well, but was pure stress. EVF on and off and on...

 

[Jeff S]

Everyone is different.  I use the M as an RF camera, disliking the EVF even though I bought one initially.  The M240 has the best RF mechanism I've used on any M.  I'd spend the bucks needed to get the lens calibrated correctly through a competent and proven third party.  In the US, that would be DAG....as Jaap says, there are folks like him elsewhere.  

 

Learning to focus an M accurately, assuming calibration is accurate, is another matter altogether.  But then I don't use an M for fast moving objects, sports, etc.  YMMV.

 

Jeff

[Gregm61]

I've been using my M262 since February with lenses in the 21, 35, 50, 75, 90 and 135mm focal lengths and every one of them is accurately matched to the rangefinder, so when I received a new (used, but like new) 18mm f3.8 Super Elmar from B&H that focused just a tiny amount short of infinity according to the rangefinder, I knew for sure it was the cam on the lens, not the M262's rangefinder, that was a small bit off.

 

Of course, the 18mm lens is still tack sharp at infinity from any distance, including down to less than 5 feet and even at f3.8 so I'm not going to bother doing anything with it for now, if ever.

Edited July 5, 2016 by Gregm61

[jaapv]

No, they said assuming i'm not mistaken it needs a trip to germany - ie they don't believe there's anything wrong with it, but if it is, Leica UK cannot fix it.

 

I've already had an independant quote for £80, so I'll have it done in the UK if I do.  I may try the EVF first - tbh I'm not 100% confident in my ability to focus it using the RF even once it is right.

 

 

 

 

I'm not sure I'm competent enough with an RF to focus a 90mm on a moving subject.  So long as I don't have to zoom in to check focus I'll be ok with the EVF

You just need a bit of practice. Focusing on a moving subject with the EVF is considerably more difficult. It is simply too slow. The rangefinder is much easier.

[insomnigraphic]

I use many old SM adapted lenses and some are "off" when paired with my digital M camera. A genius on this or another forum showed me the cheapest hack EVER to bring a lens like this into alignment. Get some metal tape. Apply it across the traveling ring, then CAREFULLY cut the inner and outer parts of the tape away, so it is only left on the ring edge. This adds a fraction of a cm to the height of the ring, effectively adjusting it. Not enough? Add another layer. Best thing is nothing permanent is done to the lens and it can be peeled right off. I just did this to an older Voigtlander that RF focused a few inches behind my closer subjects - now it is right on.

Edited August 19, 2019 by insomnigraphic