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SL Settings Setup (firmware v2)


jrp

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Has Focus Magnification been removed from the custom Short Cuts options?  Previously, I assigned Focus Mag to the FN button and enjoyed it for Manual Focus Override on the SL lens during lockup, or just for the pleasure of MF when not in a hurry. 

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I had not thought of that.

 

I tend to work in 2 distinct modes:

 

Manual exposure: where everything is manual, including ISO.

Automatic exposure: Aperture priority with ISO 100 in bright conditions and Auto ISO (50 to 3200) in dark ambient light. (Occasionally shutter priority for action and/or video)

 

I think Auto ISO in Manual mode would confuse me.

 

Regards

Peter

 

You're not alone ...

 

 

It's not very confusing once you understand what the option is. Essentially, it means "set the time and lens opening, allow the ISO to vary between the max and min ISO settings." I was reluctant when I first heard people talking about Auto ISO in Manual mode, but then I realized it does exactly what TAv mode on the Pentax K10D and later models allowed.

 

In use, is proves to be very handy—you can set a desired lens opening for DoF and a desired shutter time for the type of subject matter you're working with, and the camera will then vary ISO between your acceptable limits so you don't have constantly adjust lens opening or exposure time.

 

You do have to keep your eye on whether the exposure that the camera wants to set is between the limits of ISO, but as it works out this is relatively easy (most shooting situations I've used this for tend to fall in a 3-5 stop range, like street photography and indoor events). The EV Compensation control allows you to override the meter's ISO setting up or down to compensate when you have a mostly light or mostly dark subject. 

 

I've found this to be a very useful capability with the Leica X, and the SL makes it even easier to use. 

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Has Focus Magnification been removed from the custom Short Cuts options?  Previously, I assigned Focus Mag to the FN button and enjoyed it for Manual Focus Override on the SL lens during lockup, or just for the pleasure of MF when not in a hurry. 

 

 

hmm? 

 

Focus Magnification has always been only accessible on the bottom-left button (cycling between normal and two magnification steps). Firmware v1.2 enabled focus magnification by pressing the joystick button for use with adapted lenses. 

 

A lot of people wanted it assignable elsewhere, but was never in the Short Cuts menu choices to the best of my recollection.

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Also, if you want to use Manual exposure mode with Auto ISO, you need access to EV Compensation and the top dial is dedicated to exposure time.

This is precisely the reason.

 

I am using M mode with Auto ISO 80% of the time.

 

Also, I don't like Exposure Compensation wheels that cannot be firmly locked.

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I really have to thank you all for this very helpful thread.  I've been using an M, pretty much exclusively, for 14 years.  I wanted to get an SL to fill in some very real holes and limitations in what a rangefinder can do. I'm surprised by how intuitive I have found the SL's set up menu and shortcuts to be. But this discussion here has encouraged me to experiment, and opened doors I am now comfortable walking through.

 

Must say, I have two completely contradictory reactions to now using the SL for a few weeks.  The first is that it is such a surprisingly easy and pleasant experience, and such a genuinely great camera, it makes me question many situations in which by reflex I would use an M, and thereby is hooking me bit by bit.  The other is it reminds me how much I love my M! Lucky boy to have the choice -- and fortunate to have wise folk here helping me think differently.

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  • 1 month later...

I was briefly playing with an SL at a Leica shop today.  I liked the handling (even with the larger zoom), and the controls were relatively easy to navigate having recently used an S006 for a short period.  One question, though.... 

 

With the S, I set it so that the back button (joystick) prompted AF, but I could still fine tune focus manually by rotating the lens focus.  Is this same configuration possible with the SL (recognizing the different optical vs electronic finders)?  I didn't have enough time to carefully check.  The dealer said that it was not possible to activate focus peaking with MF and still be able to switch to AF without changing the drive mode.  That didn't seem right....or maybe I misunderstood.

 

Jeff

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I was briefly playing with an SL at a Leica shop today.  I liked the handling (even with the larger zoom), and the controls were relatively easy to navigate having recently used an S006 for a short period.  One question, though.... 

 

With the S, I set it so that the back button (joystick) prompted AF, but I could still fine tune focus manually by rotating the lens focus.  Is this same configuration possible with the SL (recognizing the different optical vs electronic finders)?  I didn't have enough time to carefully check.  The dealer said that it was not possible to activate focus peaking with MF and still be able to switch to AF without changing the drive mode.  That didn't seem right....or maybe I misunderstood.

 

Jeff

 

 

If I understand you correctly, there are two ways to do this with the SL.

 

The first uses the shutter button only while the camera is in AFs mode. Half press the shutter button, the camera will autofocus once when the button enters the half-pressed state. While continuing to half press the shutter button, manually adjust the focus with the focus ring. Fully press the shutter release to take the shot.

 

The second is more convenient IMHO and is done in MF mode. You can program the joystick to autofocus (AFs) when you momentarily press the joystick (p. 223 of the manual). After you release the joystick, fine tune the focus with the focus ring. Press the shutter release to take the shot.

 

dgktkr

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If I understand you correctly, there are two ways to do this with the SL.

 

The first uses the shutter button only while the camera is in AFs mode. Half press the shutter button, the camera will autofocus once when the button enters the half-pressed state. While continuing to half press the shutter button, manually adjust the focus with the focus ring. Fully press the shutter release to take the shot.

 

The second is more convenient IMHO and is done in MF mode. You can program the joystick to autofocus (AFs) when you momentarily press the joystick (p. 223 of the manual). After you release the joystick, fine tune the focus with the focus ring. Press the shutter release to take the shot.

 

dgktkr

 

Thanks....with the second method, do you know if focus peaking is (or can be made) active?

 

Jeff

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Thanks....with the second method, do you know if focus peaking is (or can be made) active?

 

Jeff

 

 

Yes, it can be made active (or not -- your choice).

 

Also, the default profile is set up for the second method. That is, to use the joystick for AFs when the camera is in MF mode.

 

dgktkr

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  • 1 month later...

UL - drive mode

LL- iso

UR - AF-field size

LR - AF mode

FN - white balance

 

UL and Ll are the easiest (quickest at least for me) buttons to reach without changing my grip of the right hand. UR and LR are AF functions so kind of grouped and the white balance is on the front accessible with using the viewfinder.

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The beauty of the SL system is that there is no right answer -- except what works for you.   Experimentation will show you that.

Mine are:

 

UL  ISO

LL  Profiles 

LR  Exposure comp (so it is in one place)

UR Metering Mode

Video button:  Drive mode

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Currently:

 

UL - White Balance

LL - Exposure Compensation. this will change IF Leica ever allow the user to set the EVF brightness properly)

UR- ISO

LR -flash exposure compensation

rec: Load profile

LV - Drive mode

front - grey card

 

I've chosen to have ISO and FEC on the right because that's what i want to be able to access with my eye to the VF.

 

Gordon

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All the respondees here have given lots of different memory setting options, including me, but I think you'd be better off with a process:

  1. Work out your "baseline" settings - the settings you want for most shooting scenarios - things like format, filename, etc.
  2. Program these baseline settings into all 4 memory slots (save 4 times), call memory slot 1 "Baseline" or similar
  3. Think about the most common shooting scenarios that you'll use the camera for (e.g. studio, landscape, macro, etc.)
  4. Rank them into the scenarios you use most 
  5. Pick the top 3 and think about what would the best "starting point" for the settings for each scenario (mode, display, focusing, ISO, etc.)
  6. Program these as changes from your baseline into slots 2 thru 4
  7. Name the memory slots something that you'll quickly recognise as that scenario (e.g. Studio)
  8. Start using the camera
  9. Make a mental note of anything that you are regularly having to adjust in the menus
  10. Adjust the appropriate memory slot(s) accordingly

I found that, after about 6 months, the rate of change has slowed to almost nothing, although occasionally point 9 triggers some change.  For example, I recently noticed that I was often using exposure bracketing with one of my scenarios.  So I turned on exposure bracketing as the starting point in that setting.

 

One wish for a firmware update is that the exposure settings (f stop, shutter speed) are also saved in each of the memory slots.  I like going to a completely "known state" when I load a memory setting.

 

Regards

Peter

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After a week with the SL:  Me Too!

 

 

After I I got the camera a few weeks ago I spent the first few days reading the manual, mostly to understand the menus and the buttons that I could customize. It was confusing and I set buttons similar to many of the others that have posted. Then I went out and took a whole bunch of pictures to try to get a little experience with the settings. I realized that what I had set for the different buttons wasn't what I needed. From that I reset the buttons for what works for me with the lenses that I use.

 

I am using only manual M lenses. I didn't buy either SL lens, not wanting to add all that extra weight. I am waiting for the SL 50 to come out later this year (hopefully). With the manual lenses I did't have to worry about any of the AF customization. I realized that when I shoot my left hand is under the lens for focus and aperture. My right hand is holding the camera with my index finger on the shutter button, thumb on the back and middle finger on the front. I also realized that there are only a couple of functions that I would want to change while actively shooting (eye on the EVF) -  Exposure Mode, Exposure Compensation and ISO. So I assigned these to the front FN, UR and LR buttons where I could activate them with my middle finger and thumb. I would also use my thumb for the joystick to trigger focus enhancement for manual focusing. Everything else I could access from the menu or other buttons. The top three for me are WB, Drive Mode, and Profiles so I assigned them to LL, top FN and REC buttons. I left the UL empty because I found myself pushing it inadvertently and screwing up pictures. I also set up two profiles, one for A(aperture) Manual and the other for M Manual for manual focusing lenses to quickly shift between those two modes. When I get the SL 50 I expect to set up the last two profiles for AF lenses.

 

I realize AF adds a lot of extra customization options beyond the manual lenses. But I would suggest you look at what options you are going to use most while actively shooting and set those where you can readily reach them. Then go out and test them out and make changes to what works best for you. I'm sure you will quickly find what works for you and settle in on that.

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I am using only manual M lenses. I didn't buy either SL lens, not wanting to add all that extra weight. I am waiting for the SL 50 to come out later this year (hopefully).

 

 

Judging by the pictures though it doesn't seem like the 50mm will be much lighter than the 24-90mm... 

 

 

 

 

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