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M8 infrared technique


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I played with M8 and IR-pass filters for quite some time now. Now results seem to be fairly predictable and reproducible. What really blows me away is that there is no need in focus correction for IR wavelength. First I thought it was due to large DOF of my 2.8/28 Zeiss Biogon ZM, which was the first lens that I purchased an IR-pass filter for. Later, however, I tried it with Konica 1.2/60 UC wide open, and the focus what right where the ringefinder told me. The secret of colour is in setting WB manually though the IR-pass filter.

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The M8 is a superb IR camera - no surprise there :-). The focussing is dependant on the filter used. I have a B+W 093 which is opaque to visible light. With this filter the focussing is way off if I use the normal focussing scale. One other effect is that as the filter is opaque to visible light there is no colour present - apart from a very strong magenta cast :-)

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I use heliopan. If the white balance set to Auto, there is strong magenta cast. Did you try setting it manually by shooting something white or natural grey?

 

Irakly,

 

I don't which Heliopan you have, but if it cuts just inside the visible (red) like the B+W 092 (Wratten 89B equiv.) then there may be enough visible red light to provide accurate focusing. Look at each channel in Photoshop and see if there is a focus difference in the red channel vs green and blue.

 

Carl

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I use Heliopan RG715. According to their nomenclature, 715 stands for the wavelength that it is passing.

I checked all three channels, and focus seems to be the same on all three. What do you now...

 

715 nm is probably the 50% transmission point for the filter so it is cutting right near the visible/near IR boundary and should be letting through a significant amount of red visible light - perhaps enough for accurate focusing?

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In this case only the red channel would be in focus, right?

 

I'm not so sure. Look at the red, green, and blue channel images of the tree on this page. Taken with a 715 nm filter (over the sensor instead of lens) in a converted canon rebel. Red channel is also apparently affected most by the near IR so it looks a little fuzzy compared to the green and blue channels. Hard to tell what the sensors, bayer filter, and processors are really doing with the IR in these cameras.

 

http://www.pbase.com/scho/ir_rebel

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715 nm is probably the 50% transmission point for the filter so it is cutting right near the visible/near IR boundary and should be letting through a significant amount of red visible light - perhaps enough for accurate focusing?

At 700nm it only has about 10% transmission, 50% @ 715nm so it has quite a steep cut off in the very deep red. Irakly's results have made me want to try the 715 filter, luckily I have several including the 690 from a few years ago.

 

Bob.

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Irakly - Is that a Norwich terrrier?

 

I use a Russian Orion F6 28mm that I heard about on this board and found on e-bay.

 

The Orion focuses infrared perfectly. I use a Hoya R72 filter which passes almost no visible light. If you do an expodisc custom white balance through the filter the result in warm grayscale (ie the custom white balance eliminates the magenta). I usually do gray conversions anyway. The Orion is compact so it's part of my carry-around kit.

 

Here's an example:

 

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Here's something I tried this evening and it was processed in LR ...

 

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The same image in color:

 

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Kind of looks like split toning.

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I thot the colorizing of IR photos can be adjusted in PS any time to whatever levels you want ... why is that related to the camera?

 

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I thot the colorizing of IR photos can be adjusted in PS any time to whatever levels you want ... why is that related to the camera?

 

[ATTACH]38841[/ATTACH]

 

why whould i want to adjust something in photoshop if it can be done in-camera?

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