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coding old 1.4/35 Summilux-M 11870 (pre asph.)


khk

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If you look carefully you will see that the focus helical is cut into the rear mount. That's the problem. Leica told me they no longer have the mounts for these older lenses, however with this particular lens I think the helical is an additional problem. So I'm in the same boat as you :(

 

The only possibility I can see is to get an engineering company to mill slots into the rear of the mount, that's assuming it's thick enough.

 

ETA: There may be an additional problem with this lens. On mine the rear shroud fouls the inside of the M8 and just prevents infinity focus. I've tried other pre ASPH 35mm Summiluxes and they don't have this problem, you can see their shrouds protrude about 1-2mm less so there's some variance between lenses.

 

Bob.

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I have the second version pre-asph summilux. It works just fine with a IR-cut filter and does not require coding as it pertains to image quality. Of course, if you need lens info in EXIF headers, that's a different story, but for actual photography it is utterly irrelevant.

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I have the second version pre-asph summilux. It works just fine with a IR-cut filter and does not require coding as it pertains to image quality. Of course, if you need lens info in EXIF headers, that's a different story, but for actual photography it is utterly irrelevant.

 

I agree. Of course Leica say that everything shorter than 50 mm has to be coded, but that is one of those belt and suspenders things. My own experience with a 4th version 35 mm Summicron confirms Irakly's conclusion.

 

BTW I have owned a pre-aspheric Summilux but sold it as soon as I could. At 1.4 and 2, not only light sources but normal highlights spread a veiling glare over large parts of the image. The lens was comatose and so was I, very nearly. I simply wouldn't bother with that lens.

 

The old man from the Age of the Sphericals

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My experience is that handcoding as the ASPH lux in use with a series-7 ir-cut filter helps with minor cyan fringing as well as subtle in-camera color-correction.

 

The lens is now, of course, relegated to the role of "specialist" lens. Just like the Noctilux. Proper control of its flaring characteristics, however, can yield phenomenal results. I wouldn't trade mine for the world.

 

-grant

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I'm with Lars. The non-asph 35 'luxes (and maybe 'cron's, too) are *very* flare prone. Dump this lens (sorry, that means sell it on eBay to some unsuspecting soul).

 

The rule for 35's is get the asph lens. Forget the fingerprint and the bokeh, and any other aesthetic considerations. The flare in this lens is destructive of images, color saturation, sharpness, ... , should I stop here?

 

Dump it.

 

Also, don't screw up the inside of your M8 if it's binding. That's all any of us needs, metal particles floaring around and jamming between the shutter and the cover glass. Yowee.

 

Not to mention that the 35 'lux asph is a phenomenal lens.

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Hi Karl, the filters are right on your doorstep :D but to special order. When I've asked for special order B+W items they've taken anything from 3 to 6 weeks to arrive from Foto Huppert.

 

Willkommen bei Foto Huppert the Foto Huppert catalog number is 90685486 and they're supplied by B+W.

 

Spezialfilter 486 UV IR Cut

Serie 7 (50,8 mm)

B+W

Bestell-Nr.:90685486

1 Stück: 48,00 EUR

 

Bob.

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Thanks for your answers;

but where do you get a Series 7-IR-cut filter?

I couldn,t find one. Not available by Heliopan or B&W

Karl

 

i use a regular 48mm B+W. it rattles a bit, but once you screw the hood in, it tightens.

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Thanks for your answers;

but where do you get a Series 7-IR-cut filter?

I couldn,t find one. Not available by Heliopan or B&W

Karl

 

Many slim mount 49 mm filters do fit the hood. At worst, you could have the threads removed if the front part won't screw in far enough.

 

The old man from the Age of Serial Filters

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