Unorthodox light metering methods

[StS]

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Dear all,

 

there are some exposure meters on the market which fit in the flash shoe (as far I know Gossen Digisix, Sekonic Twinmate L-208, Voigtländer VC-Meter II) – does anyone have experience using them on a M? Do they block operation in any way?

 

Do you sometimes use unorthodox light measuring methods?

 

Just a collection -

 

Leicameter – rather convenient but a guessing tool rather, especially when old (and there are no new ones around). Looks like an afterthought on the M (which might be due to the fact it was one – people actually want to measure the light when taking photos?). I should leave it in the glass cabinet now.

 

Lunasix F – good tool but rather bulky (takes almost 80% of the volume of a M body)

 

Point-and-shoot – smaller than the Lunasix but will guarantee strange looks when using it for measuring the light. I use the SLR when I have it at hand (actually a very good spot meter).

 

Cheers

 

Stefan

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[Guest stnami]

read my feet and chuck a couple of stops + or -

[Johannes Knightworth]

90% I don't measure anything, just guess .... but I do this with B&W only, Tri-x and APX 100 are quite forgiving. I have no idea how forgiving Colour is since i never use it.

With slides however I use a spotmeter.

 

Like our unorthodox friend from ward 13 down under says .... read your feet and under-, or over expose a bit. :-)

[bill]

I use my FX-01. It amuses me to have a lightmeter I can also use to take pictures. It works well as a spotmeter when you zoom!

 

Regards,

 

Bill

[StS]

90% I don't measure anything, just guess .... but I do this with B&W only, Tri-x and APX 100 are quite forgiving. I have no idea how forgiving Colour is since i never use it.

With slides however I use a spotmeter.

 

Like our unorthodox friend from ward 13 down under says .... read your feet and under-, or over expose a bit. :-)

 

Admittedly, especially the XP2 (I'm more familiar with Ilford ) will do completely without measuring unless exposed in a not illuminated coal cellar.

[frc]

Estimating with chromes in the camera is extremely difficult.

With the exception of myself I know no one that can do it.

Though, the MP\s on board center wheighted meter comes close.

 

;-)

 

I suppose you use an M4 or earlier model.

[gvaliquette]

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I use the Leicameter MR on my M4-2 and like it. Metered area approximately matches the 90mm FOV. Dealing with Px 625 batteries is getting to be a hassle, however.

 

Guy

[StS]

52 year old M3. But what can one do, they just don't break down. I'm 40 and have already lost much more hair

 

For everyday stuff I use a D70. It's like a taxi, nothing to show off but it takes you to the airport. Part of me wold like to trade it for a D200, however the D70 is only three years old. A quality camera at this age is just run in and I'm sure there will be a D300 to follow the D200.

 

The Leica to be used as a reminder photography is a craft. 'It has been emotional'

[frc]

I traded my D 70 S for a D 200, the difference isn't in the details.

On the other hand if you don't depend on the cam........

We're talking about a lot of cash here, and although I like it, and it doesn't come close to the Leica M.

But, money,

three rolls a day,

a need for quality,

four days a week,

three months = one new Nikon.

The realy important doc. stuff, still the small cam, on film.

If you can live with your present Nikon, invest in a meter to go with the M3.

Lunasix almost 80% of an M body?

D70 close to 150% of the M body!

I must admit often using my DSLR as a light meter and preview tool when working mid format.

[R.Morrison]

I also am using an MR meter on my M4-P. It's quite accurate and battery availability does not seem to be a problem in Canada.

As for unorthodox methods, for my SLRs I use a styrofoam cup perched over the lens, place the camera on my shoulder and press MEMORY LOCK . This makes for a quick and dirty (especially if there's old coffee in it:D ) incident light meter.

 

Yours,

Robert Morrison

[wlaidlaw]

For my older Leicas I too have given up using my meter (I have a Polaris dual 5 spot and incident meter) and just use the f16 rule (f8 in winter). 0n a bright sunny day at noon at f16, your shutter speed should be the inverse of your film speed. In other words 200 ISO/ASA = shutter speed of 1/200th of a second. If you then practice for a couple of days estimating how many EV you are below a bright sunny day at noon for different lighting situations, then checking yourself with a meter, you will find that you can start to do without a meter. You can then play about changing f number or shutter speed to suit. I too usually use Ilford XP which has an amazing latitude. If you get it a bit wrong all that usually happens is that your grain will increase.

 

Wilson

[Shootist]

I have a Gossen LunaPro, a Leica MC and the MR and I also have the Sekonic Twinmate L208.

The Sekonic has a shoe mount adapter that can be placed, screwed onto the meter, in several different positions on the bottom of the meter. I have it so it does not interfere at all with getting to the shutter speed dial on the M's (I use a M3 also).

It's a good meter from what I can tell. Right on with the Gossen. But I do prefer to use the Leica MR because it is shutter speed dial coupled and the dial on the meter is easier to turn and see, I wear reading glasses but I don't wear them when taking a shot, then the dial on the camera. My MR is pretty close to both the Gossen and the Sekonic especially for B&W.

 

The Sekonic does set pretty high on the camera when mounted in the shoe

[StS]

As for unorthodox methods, for my SLRs I use a styrofoam cup perched over the lens, place the camera on my shoulder and press MEMORY LOCK . This makes for a quick and dirty (especially if there's old coffee in it:D ) incident light meter.

 

Special price for unorthodoxy (if this word exists in English). I like it

[Rik]

what light metering? I use M2/M3/M4 so no meter, go with the sunny 16 rule and take it from there. You'll be amazed how quickly you get it right. Or at least good enough.

I only shoot B&W film, so that may help me...