Michael Hiles Posted December 18, 2014 Share #1 Posted December 18, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I made an exhibition print today – it will be a Christmas gift for my son-in-law, who specifically requested it (what a fine fellow). For the first time I used the split grade technique on Ilford Multigrade IV FB – with very fine results. I made a test strip using the #5 filter to determine the exposure for the shadow details (25 sec was optimum). I then made another test strip with 25 sec through the #5 filter, plus test times through the #00 filter (9 sec was optimal to give great highlights). Test strips are quickly washed and dried for 30 sec in the microwave to see the dry down effect. The nice thing about this technique is that the contrast comes out perfectly as inherent in the process, and the number of test strips in minimized. The negative was excellent from the start and no additional burning or dodging was required. The print is beautiful – loads of shadow detail and rich blacks, and detail in the almost paper white highlights. The technique is simple and logical. I believe that the Heiland Splitgrade automates the process, but it is quite expensive (in my terms anyway). The units from RH Design also do the same thing, for a little less money, but still not cheap. There is a short video on Youtube. I am going on about this to share a great experience, and recommend it to one and all. But of course you have to use film... And you need to know what a good print looks like. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 18, 2014 Posted December 18, 2014 Hi Michael Hiles, Take a look here Split Grade Printing Technique. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
chilihead Posted December 18, 2014 Share #2 Posted December 18, 2014 Bravo! A great addition to this technique is to try some different developer dilutions with the print that you determine best. For instance, Ilford Multigrade developer is recommended to be diluted 1 to 9, I find it really shines at 1 to 3! Thanks Michael! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share #3 Posted December 18, 2014 Great point and suggestion. In the same vein, my developer calls for 2 minutes. I find I am much happier with 2.5 (even 3) minutes - the blacks are richer. I'd bet that a stronger dilution goes in the same direction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan King Posted December 22, 2014 Share #4 Posted December 22, 2014 I recently printed using a split grade technique for the first time and was amazed at what a powerful tool of darkroom manipulation it is when used in conjunction with basic dodging and burning! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share #5 Posted December 22, 2014 I recently printed using a split grade technique for the first time and was amazed at what a powerful tool of darkroom manipulation it is when used in conjunction with basic dodging and burning! This mirrors my experience. An outstanding approach. I'm presently looking at the dry mounted, matted and framed silver print from the first post above. It really is terrific. Proud to sign my name to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted January 10, 2015 Share #6 Posted January 10, 2015 <snip>...I made a test strip using the #5 filter to determine the exposure for the shadow details (25 sec was optimum). I then made another test strip with 25 sec through the #5 filter, plus test times through the #00 filter (9 sec was optimal to give great highlights). Test strips are quickly washed and dried for 30 sec in the microwave to see the dry down effect...<snip> ...I'm confused - two test strips through the #5 filter? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share #7 Posted January 11, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) ...I'm confused - two test strips through the #5 filter? You have to test for what will actually happen in the final print. The first test strip tests for the shadows with the 5 filter. Since the final print will be a combination of two exposures, your highlights test strip needs the 5 exposure first, because that is what will happen when you make the final print. You are building up the image with a combination of hard and soft light. If you tested with the 00 filter without first laying the ground with the correct exposure through the 5, the final exposure would be an incorrect mix or at least unpredictable, because the test procedures were not the same as the final print procedure. The final print's highlights would not look like the 00 test, because you did not do the same thing for the final print (5 exposure PLUS 00 exposure) as you did for the tests. As an old teacher of mine said "Different is not the same". Hope this is clear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted January 13, 2015 Share #8 Posted January 13, 2015 You have to test for what will actually happen in the final print. The first test strip tests for the shadows with the 5 filter. Since the final print will be a combination of two exposures, your highlights test strip needs the 5 exposure first, because that is what will happen when you make the final print. You are building up the image with a combination of hard and soft light. If you tested with the 00 filter without first laying the ground with the correct exposure through the 5, the final exposure would be an incorrect mix or at least unpredictable, because the test procedures were not the same as the final print procedure. The final print's highlights would not look like the 00 test, because you did not do the same thing for the final print (5 exposure PLUS 00 exposure) as you did for the tests. As an old teacher of mine said "Different is not the same". Hope this is clear. ...thanks for the breakdown, Michael - I have never used this technique and will certainly be looking to giving it a try. Again, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted January 14, 2015 ...thanks for the breakdown, Michael - I have never used this technique and will certainly be looking to giving it a try. Again, thanks. My pleasure Aesop. Please be sure to tell us how you get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted January 21, 2015 Share #10 Posted January 21, 2015 http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/BasicSplitGradePrinting.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks very much - this is an excellent description of split grade printing, even though a little more technical than required by most printers. His final point is important - two test strips produces a top rate master print. No muss, no fuss. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted February 16, 2015 I found a very interesting link on Split Grade printing. Split Grade Printing the Ilford Way | Darkroom Dave. Dave in the video has some sophisticated equipment in his darkroom (2 channel automated timer, very bright enlarger that makes his exposures quite short), but the basic ideas and techniques are there, and he adds some subtle adjustments that add another dimension to the power of the process. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
egonleicaforum1 Posted February 17, 2015 Share #13 Posted February 17, 2015 Seems worth a try. I have never done this. But I have a Focomat V35 with color head. In simple terms, how do I go about it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted February 17, 2015 Share #14 Posted February 17, 2015 You simply take the (color head) dial for 00 and 5. But with any color head you can not make filter 5, maybe 4 is possible so the effect will be limited. You need a VC head or any seperate 00 and 5 filter. Or a Heiland LED light even combined with Split Grade: http://shop.fotohuisrovo.nl/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=506&language=en Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted February 17, 2015 On a V35 colour head I would dial up white light and use the individual filters. I think that getting the full effect of the #5 filter is important to fully utilize the design of the VC paper. The Heiland units would be ideal, but the are not cheap. I use the filters on my focomat 1c. Works perfectly - just slightly less automatic. RHDesigns in the UK also make excellent timers and darkroom meters that easily lend themselves to split grade printing, and they are less pricey than the Heiland stuff. But the manual approach works perfectly. The key is in gaining a little experience and applying some artistic judgment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
egonleicaforum1 Posted February 17, 2015 Share #16 Posted February 17, 2015 Brilliant. And simple. And for a V35 colour head that is 135Y/6M for 00 and 0Y/200M for 5. The values for other colour heads are here: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130201152306.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan King Posted February 17, 2015 Share #17 Posted February 17, 2015 I very highly recommend the book, "Way Beyond Monochrome" co-authored by Ralph Lambrecht and Chris Woodhouse. My prints increased in quality nearly tenfold after putting the concepts from the book to practice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share #18 Posted February 18, 2015 Based on my reading of some selected bits, I support this. That book is on my soon-to-buy list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted February 18, 2015 Share #19 Posted February 18, 2015 I can also highly recommend it. My PDF is a part of it (with permission of R. Lambrecht). Unfortunately he had a stroke attack a few years ago. He is a very nice guy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted March 19, 2015 Share #20 Posted March 19, 2015 As an old teacher of mine said "Different is not the same". R.I.P. Fred. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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