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ok, I did it...


bender73

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Congrats! Have fun with it. So I see you didn't take any risks there... Good to be on the safe side. The price of the M8 really has come down in the last two years. Good for you! ;)

 

I like the 40/2 C-Summicron. It would look neat on a black M8, it's small cheap and nice. So no damage done and definitely a keeper. (You can use normal E39 UV/IR-Cut if you want to, just don't screw them in too far, but if I remember correctly you're into b/w, so if you shoot only that, you can just leave the filter off)

 

nokton 35/1.2 is a marvelous lens, but boy, it's heavy and big... but 1.2 aperture...

 

zeiss only starts at f2, didn't test that one, but I had the 35/2.8. Beautiful lens, but too slow for my needs.

 

Leica... summicron I can't say, summilux: non-fle has focus shift, still expensive, fle is supposed to be really good but really expensive. As you'd expect from Leica.

 

I think you should first decide what angle you need, i.e. focal length, then what max aperture, then what look. Then be shocked at the prices and readjust one or more of your parameters ^^

 

Looks like more shopping time... and it's not for shoes with your wife! Yay! :)

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Oh i will be buying more shoes after this!

 

For now i just want a single lens with a 35mm focal length, so I am looking at my 28mm options. The canada version of the Elmarit 2.8 seems like a great lens. What is this coding all about?

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Rather important on the M8, especially for wideangles.

It tells the camera what corrections to apply for cyan corners and vignetting, especially when (not if, for colour work there is no getting around it) you use IR cut filters.

You need to get the B&W 486 or the Leica IR cut filter for all your lenses.

Later cameras have a menu-selectable lens setting, but the M8 relies on the six-bit coding only.

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Rather important on the M8, especially for wideangles.

It tells the camera what corrections to apply for cyan corners and vignetting, especially when (not if, for colour work there is no getting around it) you use IR cut filters.

You need to get the B&W 486 or the Leica IR cut filter for all your lenses.

Later cameras have a menu-selectable lens setting, but the M8 relies on the six-bit coding only.

 

Will I need to get any lens I buy coded? Like that Elmarit 28mm f/2.8? Where? Cost?

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There are a number of options.

Firstly Leica will do it. Costly but you do get a well-adjusted lens with a full CLA thrown in.

Then there are a number of independent repair shops who will code it for you. I do not know who does it in the USA.

Or buy one of the precoded Chinese lens mounts. Reports vary but in general they seem to be Ok. Then you can hand code the lens using a Sharpie. Finally you can take a Dremel and make your own indentations.

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There are a number of options.

Firstly Leica will do it. Costly but you do get a well-adjusted lens with a full CLA thrown in.

Then there are a number of independent repair shops who will code it for you. I do not know who does it in the USA.

Or buy one of the precoded Chinese lens mounts. Reports vary but in general they seem to be Ok. Then you can hand code the lens using a Sharpie. Finally you can take a Dremel and make your own indentations.

 

I had Don at D.A.G. 6 bit code and CLA my 1974 Summilux 50 v2 in 2012. The 6bit cost $135 and CLA at the same time was $150. He does very nice work. Email is dagcam@chorus.net

 

Jeff

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I just replaced my lens flange on a 90mm Elmarit with one from eBay seller jinfinance. Rather than using a sharpie I spent a few extra euros and purchased some white and black acrylic paints to fill in the holes. Works great and focusing is still accurate. Iirc the mount was around 12€ and the paints €8

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