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The 'el cheapo' way of coding a CV 15 without the 90mm adapter


Hans Roggen

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When I got my CV 15, I bought it with the wrong adapter. Unlike the 90mm adapter, mine had a cutout where the lenscode should be.

I have seen people who have cut, soldered, glued and welded their adapters to be suitable for handcoding, but being without the proper tools to do anything fancy to a piece of steel, I thought let's see if there is a simpler way of getting to the same point: fooling the M8 into thinking there's a WATE attached. So i unscrewed the adapter, stuck a piece of tape from one of those label making things on the back and screwed the lens back on. After that i stuck another piece of tape on the other side and cut away all tape that was on the mount, leaving only tape where the cutout is. First i left it on, but it was to thick. Mounting the lens was too hard. After that i handcoded the lens and believe it or not; it workes like a charm. When i turn on the camera the WATE menu comes up. It took me about three minutes.

It doen't look very nice because of the jagged edges, butI was just trying to see if it worked.

After that i took my 39mm IR filter and rolled it in clear tape. I cut away the edges and pushed it into the hood of the CV15. You can hardly see the tape.

 

So if you have some tape to spare you can easily pimp your CV 15 for use with the m8.:D

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Hi,

 

I'm using a simple paper sheet since a while now.

What I found out later is that I needed to add some thicker material below the paper to make sure no extra light can shine trough the thin paper. I noticed the problem with the new firmware. Everytime I holded the camera into light, the menue for the WATE popped up asking for the focal length. :o

 

lens3.jpg

 

 

Works very well so far for me.

 

Best regards

 

Karl-Heinz

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Hi Jamie,

 

on my lens, I only use two pieces of a wider EVA foam gasket, placed it inside the “wings” of the lens hood and pressed the filter in. Feels very safe, as the foam grips nicely into the rills that are inside the “wings”.

 

lens4.jpg

 

 

I tried the rubber ring as well, but it always jumped away when I tried to install the filter :(

 

Best regards

 

Karl-Heinz

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Hans--

 

Fabulous!

 

How secure is the filter? I mean, could I take it to a wedding and work with it? Or is it a little sensitive to motion? :) I'd try it myself, but I don't have a spare 39 right now...(I will soon though!)

 

 

Hi Jamie,

 

I haven't been able to get it out anymore :D

I guess i need some pliers ...

Secure enough for you? :)

 

hans

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I like the simple approach. If I understand correctly, the piece of tape is between the lens and the lens adapter? The extra space on that side doesn't affect focus or anything?

 

You understand correctly.

And because you end up with the sticky side towards the camera i stuck another piece of tape on the back so it wouldn't gather all kinds of dust. And it gets a little more rigid that way. The extra space is minimal so it doesn't affect focus.

 

Hans

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I did a bit of fine tuning because light falling in the space between the dymotape and the code eyes in the bajonet, could cause the WATE menu to pop up like Karl-Heinz noticed.

 

Wat I did was adding a couple of layers of dymotape until it had the thickness of the adapter (see pics).

 

Hans

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Brilliant.

 

One question though from an unexperienced user, how exactly do you know where to position the sharpie mark?

I know there are earlier posts that show all the different marking options for different lenses, but how does one determine the correct spot to place it on the lens ring?

 

Thank you kindly.

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Hi Beagle,

 

What works best for me is wen i mark the spots on the side of the lens mount on the camera. So you determine what positions you need and look for the corresponding little red eyes. Then you put on your lens and mark the lens bajonet. Remove the lens and mark it in the correct spot.

 

Hans

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