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Firmware 1.102

leffe

By leffe
in Digital Forum

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Guest guy_mancuso

Guest guy_mancuso

Posted
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John the filter ring is a split ring , was going to e-mail you about this today actually . Not so sure the split ring will work , either new retaining rings or steal them from other thread 49mm filtesr. I used the one you had installed from the B+W.

 

I can send theLeica empty ring to you if you want but the screw in retainer is much better at holding the glass tightto the adapter. so folks may want to just get a cheap 49mm filter out there and steal the ring for now

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wparsonsgisnet

wparsonsgisnet

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... Herb I still think the Leica filter is the answer on the WATE and CV 15mm. But since you have the B+W installed you should try it. I had to cheat with it. i set the menu at 16mm but shot at 18mm and itwas clean but 16mm still had some cyan cast. At least you can get by for a little while until the 49mm leica hits the street but just go out and shoot some stuff and see if you get the same results ...

 

Guy, I'm confused. Above, you said that the 486 and the Leica filters are supposed to be the same (or maybe Sean said it). Here you are saying you expect the Leica version to differ.

 

Are you saying there's somehting odd about the WATE, or that there really is a difference between the 486 and the Leica-branded IR-cut filters?

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Guest guy_mancuso

Guest guy_mancuso

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John the filter ring is a split ring , was going to e-mail you about this today actually . Not so sure the split ring will work , either new retaining rings or steal them from other thread 49mm filters. I used the one you had installed from the B+W.

 

I can send theLeica empty ring to you if you want but the screw in retainer is much better at holding the glass tightto the adapter. so folks may want to just get a cheap 49mm filter out there and steal the ring for now.

 

But please someone make a test with the B+W just to be sure I am correct

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Guest guy_mancuso

Guest guy_mancuso

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here is what i got at 16mm with the B+W

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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DaveEP

DaveEP

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This is strange indeed. My camera is #..52xx and I don't need to touch the shutter. It just turns on after after switching it to S, C or timer.

Hans

 

Mine is a ...33xx and has the problem..... no amount of waiting makes it turn on - you have to press the shutter.

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wlaidlaw

wlaidlaw

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Has anyone tried yet to see if setting the lens detection to On + UV/IR does anything for non-coded lenses. In other words does it remove the green cast you get on JPEG's with a 486 filter, when using a non-coded lens. Does it remove cyan corners - I would assume not since this would not be needed on longer coded lenses. If there is no action, I regret to say I would feel a bit short changed and would have liked to see a setting of "detection off + UV/IR". I know this would be a half-way house to manual lens selection but it would have been a relatively easy one to implement and very useful. Everything else seem fine.

 

Wilson

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wparsonsgisnet

wparsonsgisnet

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Bill,

If I may jump in on this item..... The L109xxxx you talk about is simply the folder number before the image number. The "109" will become "110" once you trip past 9999 frames in that folder. If you want to change the folder number to something else, you can. When I got my M8 back from Solms, it had some odd L866xxxx number on it. I simply changed the folder and file number back to something closer to what it was when I shipped it off. Not hard to do, and I will be happy to privide directions for doing that if you need them.

 

LJ

 

LJ, I was in the area of L100xxxx when I upgraded to 1.091 and 1.092. At that point, the nuber sequence jumped to L109xxxx. I have taken a lot of pix, but ... not 80,000 of them.

 

It's not a problem, again, just a curiosity. My particular camera has done 2 funny things since upgrading past 1.06, and they are:

1. The need to touch the shutter button as part of the turn-on process, and

2. A jump in image numbers to 109. Since I thot it was related to the 1.09x upgrade, I expected to see my image numbers go to L110xxxx, today.

 

I would be very pleased to have your instructions for changing these numbers, because I tried some time back and failed. At that time, I was "calibrating" batteries. When I ran the camera down, it jumped from L101xxxx back to L100xxxx.

 

Since I was getting duplicate image numbers at that point, I tried to move to L102xxxx, but had no success.

 

Please post your directions.

 

tnx.

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photorunner

photorunner

Posted
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Guy,

 

I've been dying to try out my WATE with JLM/B+W 486. I'll post some shots for you to see. What size settings you use to post pictures here? I'm glad there is the Leica forum with people like you around who selflessly impart their time, effort and skills to help others like me improve. Thanks.

 

Herb

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DaveEP

DaveEP

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Has anyone tried yet to see if setting the lens detection to On + UV/IR does anything for non-coded lenses. In other words does it remove the green cast you get on JPEG's with a 486 filter, when using a non-coded lens. Does it remove cyan corners - I would assume not since this would not be needed on longer coded lenses. If there is no action, I regret to say I would feel a bit short changed and would have liked to see a setting of "detection off + UV/IR". I know this would be a half-way house to manual lens selection but it would have been a relatively easy one to implement and very useful. Everything else seem fine.

 

Wilson

 

 

If your lens is not coded - how would the camera know how much correction to do ???

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Guest guy_mancuso

Guest guy_mancuso

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I recommend the leica 39mm filetr for the CV 15mm that sits inside the front shroud and the leica 49mm filter with adapter for the WATE. need to run out but back soon

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wlaidlaw

wlaidlaw

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Posted

I have just tried with a non-coded lens and JPEG's. AWB defintely seems better and much of the green cast looks to have disappeared with a 486 filter. I am not sure if I can detect any difference between UV/IR on and no detection on a non-coded lens. I would need to put the camera on a tripod to eliminate other variables to be sure. I might just be seeing a shade less intense greens with UV/IR on.

 

Wilson

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wparsonsgisnet

wparsonsgisnet

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Guy:

can you send me the Leica 49mm filter housing and retaining ring from which you extracted the Leica glass?

 

i want to confirm whether the retaining ring threads are compatible with those of the B+W filter. Apparantly, the glass is. If not, to be brand-independent, I might have to make a supply of retaining rings, which are pesky.

 

John, I have a new 49mm 486 filter that I have not yet taken apart. It is intended to go into your WATE filter housing.

 

Would you like me to send it to you? If so, then I'll also send you the filter housing and ask that you place the filter in your housing. You can then have the rings.

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DaveEP

DaveEP

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Will the correction for cyan corners with a Leica UV/IR filter and firmware 1.102 be applied to both JPEG and RAW files or only to JPEG?

 

My understanding (and perhaps some one may correct this) is that the corrections are done to the RAW file before the JPEG is created, and since the JPEG is created from the RAW, it must follow that the JPEG is corrected too - even if the RAW is not saved....

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LJL

LJL

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Since I was getting duplicate image numbers at that point, I tried to move to L102xxxx, but had no success.

 

Please post your directions.

 

tnx.

 

Bill,

Here is a procedure that will allow you change to anything you want:

 

1. Set the exposure number in the menu to "Standard"

2. Format the SD card in camera.

3. Reset the File Number in the menu.

4. Set exposure back to "Continuous"

5. Take one image

6. Shut off camera, remove SD card and place in card reader to computer.

7. Access the image in your Finder or Explorer (Mac or PC); rename the image number to whatever file number/image number you want. I would suggest Lyyyxxxx, with "y" being your preferred folder number and "x" being the frame number you want to start with. (You are making these changes to the file name on the card in the card reader.)

8. Properly remove card from card reader and return to camera.

9. Press "Play"; file will now display with newly renamed folder and file number. (Use "Info" to see this data.)

10. Expose another image to confirm and check file numbers.

11. Format SD card, and you are good to go from that point on.

 

You can use this procedure as often as you need or care to, but I have outlined a way that allows you to keep your file numbering on "Continuous" so you have some idea of how many total frames you may be taking.

 

Hope this helps.

 

LJ

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prav66

prav66

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My camera also needs to have shutter depressed at least half-way to really turn on. Only flipping the switch on alone doesn't do it.

 

I received it in Feb, so just assumed all M8 camera were like this.

 

Got used to it, but would be nice to have this rectified now that I find out it is not the norm. It is definately a step I'd rather do without.

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Shootist

Shootist

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My camera also needs to have shutter depressed at least half-way to really turn on. Only flipping the switch on alone doesn't do it.

 

I received it in Feb, so just assumed all M8 camera were like this.

 

Got used to it, but would be nice to have this rectified now that I find out it is not the norm. It is definately a step I'd rather do without.

 

This is definitely not the way it should work.

It should turn on fully when the switch is turned to S, C or Timer.

I suggest you and Bill contact Leica support and send the camera in to be fixed.

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