myshkine Posted June 22, 2013 Share #21 Â Posted June 22, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Since I started shooting film again, in 2009, I only used Kodak E100G and some Ektar. Until a few months ago, 100g was still available online. Not any more, at least in Italy. I still have a few rolls in stock, but what next? Digital is on the horizon, sadly... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 22, 2013 Posted June 22, 2013 Hi myshkine, Take a look here How to shoot my new M6. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gyoung Posted June 23, 2013 Share #22 Â Posted June 23, 2013 Provia? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vcs700s Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share #23 Â Posted June 24, 2013 Well, I just put the first roll of film shot with the M6 in the mail. Still getting use to it but having fun doing it. Â Looking forward to the results.:-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vcs700s Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share #24  Posted July 2, 2013 Well, I just put the first roll of film shot with the M6 in the mail. Still getting use to it but having fun doing it. Looking forward to the results.:-)  I just received my negatives and CD back. The M6 is functioning perfectly and the pics look good. I love the look of film! Now for some serious photography. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted July 2, 2013 Share #25 Â Posted July 2, 2013 Excellent, what was the film? Â All good advice here. I agree the Sekonic 308 is a really good handheld meter. Â Re the Sunny f/16 rule (in practice, often more like the Sunny f/11 rule): Â Try to guesstimate the likely exposure before you take your camera out. Then you will just need to fine tune it. It's fastest by varying the aperture. Â You match the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the ISO. For example, with ISO 100: Â Extremely bright and sunny: 1/125 @ f/16 Â Sunny, blue sky: 1/125 @ f/11 Â Overcast: 1/125 @ f/8 Â Very overcast: 1/125 @ f/5.6 Â Evening, indoors: 1/125 @ f/2.8 - f/4 Â Low light: 1/125 @ f/2 - f/2.8 Â If really low, open the shutter longer. It is quite surprising how you can keep shooting in quite low light even at ISO 100. Â Obviously, you can increase the shutter speed and open the aperture; or decrease the shutter speed and stop down and keep the same exposure. Â As a general, everyday, take anywhere setting with ISO 100, how about 1/250 @ f/5.6-f/8? Â Why not try your skill by guessing the exposure then comparing it with the meter reading? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vcs700s Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share #26 Â Posted July 2, 2013 Thanks for the suggestions. Â I am shooting Arista Premium ISO 400 B&W. Â Love the results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ansel_Adams Posted July 2, 2013 Share #27 Â Posted July 2, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just looked at your blog. Have a read about the zone system. Underexposing will not make a difference to your highlights but merely push the entire scale further down the film curve. If you want to tame highlights you need to under-develop. Â Quick rule of thumb: exposure controls the shadows and development controls the highlights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
payasam Posted July 4, 2013 Share #28 Â Posted July 4, 2013 The M6 has neither aperture priority auto nor shutter priority auto. I generally set shutter speed and adjust aperture according to the meter reading -- but often I leave the aperture where it is and change shutter speed by the meter. I have no trouble doing either although my digital cameras are set to aperture priority. In the M6, unfortunately, there is no finder display of shutter speed as there is in the M5. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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