KR-3M B+W MRS filter

[crow]

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Want a quality filter to protect my C-40mm Summicron.

MRC means safe from scratches, cleaning marks...

KR-3 means a bit of a warming effect changing color.

I like this in a color picture.

Question is: Does it lower the tonal contrast between the lightest and darkest tones, or, if not talking about the extremes, between two light and dark tonal areas?

B+W means no loss in clarity/sharpness, but is the slightly colored glass a compromise both in sharpness and contrast? Doesn't affect middle grey settle contrasts(?)...

Talking about a 39mm filter on a series 5.5 to 39mm step up ring.

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The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[crow]

Well,

I kind of answered the question myself, taking a whole different path.

I found a deal on Ebay.

Bought 8 Tiffen filters, nos, including

UV HAZE 1 - 71% UV light absorption

 

HAZE 2A - Virtually ALL UV light absorption

 

80A - tungsten correction\

 

81 - Warmer

 

81A - stronger warmer then the 81

 

82C - Cooling filter, known as the morning/evening filter, will minus reds

 

FLD - Fluorecscent correction

 

CC30M - Color correction MAGENTA

These aren't HT filters. They are series 5.5 so I screw them directly on my

Summicron C-40mm, no adapter ring, smaller camera width inside the bag.

They are nos so I may experiment with older looks. I do have a tendency towards old

film, and cinema, Hollywood and British mostly, Greek too.

When I have researches this enough I may buy one of those HT or MRC ones. Till then I'll be taking care of my CL and lens. I need to get a series 5.5 front lens cap.

Sorry it will take long till I have done my homework coming up with CL and Tiffen shots combination.

[jaapv]

Why don't you do these minor shifts in your post processing?

Major colour shifts in one channel is one thing, but a slight warming of colour temperature is nothing dramatic. Leica lenses do not need UV filtering. (Nor do most otherbrands nowadays)

 

Note that there are NO new filters available for the Summicron-C. You need to find vintage 5.5 series filters for the factory lens hood. Some people screw a 39 in, but the threads are different and there is a risk of damage and/or binding.

[crow]

post processing...

I've tried it. A little lightroom, some i photo, an old version of photoshop.

Not thrilled.

Darkroom, now this I am working on finding some one to teach me.

Greece is no US, no colleges, no open university photo classes,

and certainly not more than one uni in each city. Bit of sad really. Plus the IMF and the troika

want to shut down what's left of unis, schools, hospitals. They want to extinguish the whole country. Only the rich will survive. I am working on sorting out something analog. You see I am a painter. I am not impressed very easily. Post pro doesn't work all right for a man of my background.

[algrove]

PP makes photographers like painters.

[crow]

No it doesn't.

Sorry I don't mean to disagree for the sake of disagreeing.

In my opinion photography died right when PP started. Or so they say. Not really.

They also say that painting died when photography was invented. Courbet, the realist painter said that painting carried a "material" workmanship that became evident on the surface of the painting, sort of what we'd call now days "actual texture".

He was right. Whatever post processing you do photos are completely flat, and if not it is a decorative texture not one to do with the picture. PP isn't anywhere close to painting.

How come old fashioned photography is so interesting?

Cause it differs from painting. Painting catches more detail when realistic. Photography has a greater degree of abstraction. This adds to the beauty. It also is interesting when black and white. The flatness that it carries is also what makes it different from "objective painting".

There are more stuff that differentiate the two. This is why PP is neither painting nor photography, therefore less interesting, in my opinion.

This is why I don't like PP, and I don't consider my self a photographer yet. Hope I become that as well on day!

[crow]

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Went the other way instead.

There arouse some problems.

First, I have no retaining ring.

Second due to the lack of a protective filter i am afraid I may have or will in the immediate future scratch or mark the front of the C 40mm Summicron lens( think I haven't done so ).

 

I bought tiffen series 5.5 filters. Only they are drop ins, meaning I need a retaining ring for them to fit. I thought I'd go for the 8 nos filters sold on ebay rather than a single B+W, but I was proven unlucky. Anyone knows where I can get a ring with out paying a fortune?

[jaapv]

Keep searching on eBay for the original lens hood, that works as a retaining ring.

[crow]

Yea,

I know.

It is the 12518 rubber hood. Should have grabbed it when I saw it.

Perhaps in the near future.

What's the safest country to visit in Africa, for a starter?

[jaapv]

Malawi.

[crow]

Got another problem.

There is a ring on the front of the Summicron C 40mm f/2.

On that ring there is a dot.

It is supposed to be at 12 o'clock so you know what aperture is set.

Well I told you the lens came with a 5.5 to 39mm step up ring/screw in.

Trying to look at the glass and screwing and unscrewing the 5.5-39mm ring the dot got carried away, went all the way hidden and showed up again. Looks as if the front lens part, the ring where the white aperture dot is, is loose. It gets tightened once circled around half a turn but when it comes back to 12 o'clock showing again it becomes loose again.

 

Now, I get the feeling this isn't a big problem. It doesn't look to me as if it is going to unscrew all the way, causing it to fall down in any instant. Seems that since it isn't going to totally unscrew I should leave it be, bring it where it is almost tight enough to stay, even if it means the white dot doesn't show, since the aperture works just fine and the rf seems to be working fine also.

Am I right?

Is anybody out there who knows what I am talking about?

This isn't a problem so I should go head and ignore it, right?

[crow]

Then there is which system is safer for the lens glass in case of an accident,let's say filter drops on the glass while taking it off or dropping it in or screwing on the lens. Tiffen is a drop in, which I am not sure how it works; perhaps dropping it into the retaining ring away from the lens, then screwing the ring with filter on the C 40mm f2. The other way is screwing a B+W on the series 5,5 to 39 step up ring. In this case the B+W filter is scratch free(MRC). Safer for the filter, not any different for the lens. The lens is more expensive than filter of course so it is much more important. I remember scratching a lens or two before I had learned how to keep it protected. Accidents happen, and unless you 're rich it is better to keep the expensive lens as safe as possible so you won't have to buy a new one. To be honest we in such a deep crisis I am not sure when I'll be able to buy another Leica.

Please remember that I still don't know how the front ring of the Summicron C 40, the one where the white dot indicating aperture setting, works, moves, around itself or possibly unscrewing from the barrel???

[jaapv]

The problem is that these 5.5 to 39 adapters are made from aluminium and have a thread that is not quite correct. They bind quite easily. You will only be able to get it off if you're lucky, otherwise you'll just unscrew the the optical cell from the mount. I had to send my lens to Will van Manen to have the adapter removed. The lens unscrews from the barrel quite easily, but is just as easily tightened in the right position as well, if you have the right wrench (available though Microtools). Just tighten the ring with the two slots on the back with the optical cell in approx. the right position.

 

Use the lens with the original hood and a series 5.5. filter or without filter. Anything else is improvisation.

This is a forty-year old lens and it is not standarized to current norms.

[crow]

This makes sense.

It felt kind of difficult to unscrew, and I had a hint it was an easy solution, but had not realized it was because the step up wasn't made of brass. Thanks!

[tobey bilek]

Just a trace amount of plumber silicone paste will keep the aluminum from binding. I had to use it on a 25 mm CV lens shade when they first came out and it has been fine since.

 

Just do not tighten and use a small an amount as possible. Apply and then clean off all you can without solvents and that is all you need. Too much will risk a migration problem.

[crow]

Thanks for the input, but I am not that comfortable doing this, just for the sake of getting away with my cheap, came with the lens as a "gift", step up ring.

Truth is I have to buy a series 5,5 retaining bruss ring, and the 12518 hood, if not the 11251 ring as well. I had bought an aluminum vacuum hood form ebay, I didn't even get close to the Cron with that thing.

 

Jaap, I have to confess I didn't understand a clue form the part regarding the white dot ring on the front of the cron. It must be my English as a second language problem, which how ever much practice reading it 'll never become my first language.

[crow]

So how do Tiffen on the Summicron C 40mm work?

Do you clip them on the retaining ring, and they secure on the ring and then just screw in the ring inside the front thread of the lens?

Or do you place the filter first on top of the lens, and then screw the retaining ring on to the front thread of the lens?

The first option sounds safer than the second cause the retaining ring and filter can't hit the front glass.

[jaapv]

Just a trace amount of plumber silicone paste will keep the aluminum from binding. I had to use it on a 25 mm CV lens shade when they first came out and it has been fine since.

 

Just do not tighten and use a small an amount as possible. Apply and then clean off all you can without solvents and that is all you need. Too much will risk a migration problem.

It doesn't solve the problem with the inaccurate thread on the Heavystar ring.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[crow]

Somewhere I've heard that you can trim a series VI retaining ring down to Series 5.5.

Is this possible? I mean the series 5.5 retaining rings, who ever is stuck with a load of nos tiffen, can easier find the VI rings rather than 5.5. Now I've heard this for series 6, and I don' t know if VI is the same thing as 6. So two questions.