Flash for M8

[bill vann]

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I've searched but not much written regarding flash, either simple hot shoe or...

 

i can run my big lights from my wireless but have no simple compact or hotshoe flash.

 

what wre you all using?

 

my old sunpak 422D thyristor died leaving me with no quick and easy solution.

 

bill

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[wparsonsgisnet]

I use the Metz 54. I also have Vivitar 283's and use them with a Wein HSHS. When necessary to get a pc adapter, I use the HSHS for this as well.

[rpierce]

The Nikon SB 80 or SB 800 work fine on manual or auto.

 

Bob Pierce

[fjmcsu]

Also use a Nikon SB-800 & a SB-28DX on "A" mode.

Here's a previous thread with a website I posted that tests various voltages.

http://www.leica-camera-user.com/digital-forum/19765-strobes-m8-compatability.html?highlight=flash

[35mmSummicron]

i have a Metz 54 MZ3 that seems to work pretty well in Auto mode...........i am using the module for the Canon shoe because i am too lazy to go and the get proper leica one......seems to work.

[scott kirkpatrick]

Olympus (actually made by Panasonic, I hear) FL38 and FL50 flashes, used on auto or manual output work fine in the M8's hotshoe. There have been a few recent threads on these. Haven't run across the Metzs and don't own Nikon's or Canon's units comparable to my FL50, but these all seem to be essentially in the same design space, with a twistable, tilting head, and zoom controls. I assume Leica and Metz will get there someday, with some additional automation features, but using a one-shot flash and skipping the preflash delays that the shutter-closed exposure metering of the M8 requires makes sense to me.

 

scott

[AlanJW]

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Olympus (actually made by Panasonic, I hear) FL38 and FL50 flashes, used on auto or manual output work fine in the M8's hotshoe. There have been a few recent threads on these. Haven't run across the Metzs and don't own Nikon's or Canon's units comparable to my FL50, but these all seem to be essentially in the same design space, with a twistable, tilting head, and zoom controls. I assume Leica and Metz will get there someday, with some additional automation features, but using a one-shot flash and skipping the preflash delays that the shutter-closed exposure metering of the M8 requires makes sense to me.

 

scott

The different flashes may look like they are in the same design space but do not function in the same way. My Canon 430ex will not work properly on the M8, for example, and I am sure there are other similar looking units that won't work. I've been stuck with the SF20 on "A" (TTL will not work but A is easy enough), but I would love a unit that size that had a swivel head for bounce. The Metz and Olympus seem to work but are too big. Frankly when I have a situation that calls for decent flash I haul out the 5D.

[robsteve]

The Metz flashes are the only sensible option when looking for a flash with more power or versatility than the SF-24 flash. It makes no sense to spend money on a Nikon or Olympus flash and loose the automation features of a dedicated unit for the M8.

 

The only time it makes sense to use a third party flash on the M8 using the flashes Auto mode is if you already have the flash. There has also been rumors of a new flash from Leica. We may want to wait to see what this is before spending a lot of money on a new flash.

 

With a Metz flash and the 3502- M4 or M5 adapter, you get the following advantages:

 

-When the flash is turned on the M8 goes to the proper sync speed and optionally with coded lenses, the sync speed can automatically go to a slower speed to get ambiant light. For example, it will normally sync at 1/250th, but with a coded 35mm lens and auto slow sync turned oun, the sync speed will be set to 1/30th.

 

-The M8 tells the flash the ISO the camera is set at.

 

-You can use the GNC mode of the flash.

[scott kirkpatrick]

The Metz flashes are the only sensible option when looking for a flash with more power or versatility than the SF-24 flash. It makes no sense to spend money on a Nikon or Olympus flash and lose the automation features of a dedicated unit for the M8.

 

...snip...

 

-The M8 tells the flash the ISO the camera is set at.

 

So far, I am not terribly impressed by the automation features of the Leica-compatibible flashes, since they require what is said to be a time-consuming preflash. And, that's right, I have an E-1 and simply borrowed its modest-sized but powerful FL50. I've covered several family "events" with this combination, and like the results. As far as the last point goes, if I am using bounce flash in a living room, the ISO will be 160. Fill flash outdoors and other more complicated stuff might be a different story.

 

scott

[wparsonsgisnet]

There are actually 2 procedures for "automatic" flash with the M8. We all know that this camera can't do ttl.

 

I use the Metz 54 and there are 2 choices:

1. GNC-with-Manual. In this case the M8 does a measurement using a pre-flash, and then triggers the flash for the exposure that is captured.

2. Auto on the flash, with appropriate settings for the M8. That is, tell the Metz what the iso, aperture, and zoom factor are.

 

The first uses pre-flash; the second, doesn't. I prefer the second, wherein the Metz, in Auto mode, shuts down based on what it sees from a single flash (no pre-flash).

[Riley]

if AUTO mode is the best, a different flash might be an advantage

the Metz are gigantic on a small camera

not exactly cheap either

 

FWIW, the FL-36 is very accurate, and easy to control in AUTO mode

if TTL cracks a fruity on the Oly i use it in AUTO

works nicely on LC-1 as well

 

cheers

[robsteve]

So far, I am not terribly impressed by the automation features of the Leica-compatibible flashes, since they require what is said to be a time-consuming preflash. And, that's right, I have an E-1 and simply borrowed its modest-sized but powerful FL50. I've covered several family "events" with this combination, and like the results. As far as the last point goes, if I am using bounce flash in a living room, the ISO will be 160. Fill flash outdoors and other more complicated stuff might be a different story.

 

scott

 

Scott:

 

the Metz flashes work great on the Auto mode and you get all the info transfered to the flash, plus the special slow sync function. I agree that the GNC mode is a bit slow and I do not use it.

 

In regards to third party flashes I said "The only time it makes sense to use a third party flash on the M8 using the flashes Auto mode is if you already have the flash." When I should have said, "If you have to buy a flash, you might as well buy a compatible Metz flash then buy third party flash."

 

Also, with the Metz flashes, you can get the SCA shoes to use them with your other sytems.

[wparsonsgisnet]

I agree that the Metz flashes are a little big. However, they pack enormous light. If you plan to buy just one ... why not have all the power you'll need?

[Riley]

they sure are powerful, no question about that

something else i have noticed though

as i have both an FL-36, and a Metz 54 MZ3

 

interior tungsten light tends to get washed out with the Metz

and i lose the opportunity to mix light sources, and the subsequent warmth that can add

 

a bit style dependent i guess

 

cheers

[wparsonsgisnet]

they sure are powerful, no question about that

something else i have noticed though

as i have both an FL-36, and a Metz 54 MZ3

 

interior tungsten light tends to get washed out with the Metz

and i lose the opportunity to mix light sources, and the subsequent warmth that can add

 

a bit style dependent i guess

 

cheers

 

Riley, would you add some more poetry to your description? That is, fill us in on how the FL lets you mix other light sources.

 

tnx,

[Riley]

Riley, would you add some more poetry to your description? That is, fill us in on how the FL lets you mix other light sources.

 

tnx,

 

no problem Bill

i shoot interiors all the time, i prefer the mobility of working without a tripod

 

my principle issue is mixing 3 light sources to the best advantage

that of the flash, the outside light through the windows, and interior tungsten sources

the tungstens are useful for warming an otherwise cold flash lighting

with the Metz however, it either has a longer duration flash,

or just because it has more raw power

obliterates the tungsten sources and whatever glow they provide

 

the FL-36 OTOH, keeps the glow of the tungstens alive

making a more interesting effect on shades and reflected light on walls etc,

a more pleasing and a warmer scene

 

hope that suffices

[wparsonsgisnet]

Riley, I've always depended on whatever strobe to provide "daylight" here, now. If you reduce the power on the Metz, do you get the warmth of the incandescants?

 

And what will be all do when only compact fluorescent bulbs are in lamps?

[Riley]

Riley, I've always depended on whatever strobe to provide "daylight" here, now. If you reduce the power on the Metz, do you get the warmth of the incandescants?

 

And what will be all do when only compact fluorescent bulbs are in lamps?

 

no i dont, I shall make an absolute test tomorrow, but previous experience suggests

that for whatever reason, the glow is greatly reduced,

if not blow away in the same circumstances, scene and exposure

 

you are dead right about compact fluorescents

im hoping another technology appears, like multiple led clusters

i dont like the things, they look an awful yellow or blue,

and have a flicker frequency that annoys me

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[newyorkone]

Is anyone using the SF-24D? I'm not really a flash user but would like some fill light in certain situations which doesn't require as much power. The size of the Metz flash kills it for me.

 

Curious if anyone has been able to put the SF-24D to good use and would really appreciate a few sample pictures. Thanks.

[Riley]

Ok ive been shooting away fairly extensively this afternoon, and I have discovered Im somewhat wrong in my conclusions, re the Metz not mixing light as well as the FL-36. The example Metz 54 MZ3 has a stofen attached, and that is what is responsible for dumbing down the tungsten light.

 

Looking at the totality of the file, it tends to pass more even light even for extensive rooms, I can see that the modelling of light is somewhat removed on the far walls where they meet the ceiling. The range with the stofen would be less no doubt, but within its range on what is a powerful flash, it blankets a more even light, and that eliminates tungsten light influence to an extent.

 

I keep the stofen on the Metz for a specific purpose, for among the features of rooms I photograph I meet from time to time varnished wooden ceilings. Which ordinarily precludes using bounce flash, unless you are very fond of amber images. The power of the Metz and the front firing direct flash overcomes this.

 

Sorry for leading you astray, I guess its pretty much a learning experience.