MRTEE Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19661 Posted August 10, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Recent scan of old negative. M6 Tx400. Tony. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 8 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=3094055'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 Hi MRTEE, Take a look here I like film...(open thread). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
mistergaspar Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19662 Posted August 10, 2016 Fuji Velvia 50 MP-50 LA Pictures uncorrected Litterature temple Hanoi (VN) Image1templelitteratHNfeclfht+++600.jpg Image4Vanmieufujivfeclfht++++600.jpg Best Henry Doc Henry, These are beautiful! Do you remember what time of day it was shot? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19663 Posted August 10, 2016 This is what happens to poorly processed Kodak Ektachrome slides from 1968. I had them done at a local lab in Thailand. A few years ago I got them out and was shocked to see how badly they had held up. The colors are almost gone, even the mounts were falling apart. My camera at the time was a Petri Racer with a 1.8 lens. I have always liked range finder cameras, simple to operate, simple to own. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 7 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=3094100'>More sharing options...
too old to care Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19664 Posted August 10, 2016 And Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 8 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=3094101'>More sharing options...
too old to care Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19665 Posted August 10, 2016 One more for today. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 5 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=3094102'>More sharing options...
MT0227 Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19666 Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) Gary/Adam......I appreciate the response and your suggestions. Here's the shot I took last year with my D810, 800iso, f4, 20sec, 24mm prime. The skies by me are pretty light polluted, you can see a lot of light coming from behind the tall trees to the right. I also had to fight the surrounding streetlights to the left, behind me, and the one I blocked intentionally with the wooden monument to provide the shadow. The was shot #1 that night after a few test shots to get the correct exposure..I couldn't believe I caught two meteors side by side and one at the lower left just above the treeline. The Milky Way faintly displayed to the left of the meteors. 2015-08-13_001-018-Nik by Marc Tauber, on Flickr Marc - i am not an astrophotographer buy just the sound of what you are proposing to do suggest to me that tri x is not the right film. it has very bad reciprocity failure characteristics and I fear that you will get very very high contrast with your results Marc, I have shot a bit at night. OK, I've shot a lot at night. While Adam makes a case for reciprocity, I always used as fast a film as I could, back in the day. Now, I would only suggest digital I am sorry. My suggestion would be the D810 and shoot as many as you can be bothered, before, during, and after the expected timing for the show. Something like a 14mm lens, the Nikkor 14-24, or similar, something wide, and fast, so wide open. The meteors will appear as streaks, but they should all come back to a common radiant. If you have the burning desire to use film, stack the D810 on top, or alongside the film camera you select. Again I'd use something like the 14mm (for full frame). It gives some wriggle room for centering, and allows a slightly longer exposure to be used, without showing trailing. Good luck. Gary Edited August 10, 2016 by MT0227 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT0227 Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19667 Posted August 10, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks Henry...I was basically planning on pointing my SWC in the same direction as I did last year with my D810/24mm prime; SWC is close to a 24mm equivalent lens in 35mm terms. If for example, I like a 20sec exposure in a digital test at 800iso, f/4.0...where would you set the timer for Portra pushed to 800? Keep the same the 20sec or should I set the Reciprocity app with Portra 100/400 at 20sec and use the value of 51sec to expose the film? Marc for astrophotography of stars or moon I have made some tests with Kodak Portra 400 push at 800 and TX400, the results are goodI'll get some pictures and I'll post. 400 Isos is the minimum IMOA tripod is essential with long exposures+ a timed trigger would also be advisableor you can leave the shutter open (option B on cam) if you like stars trails Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19668 Posted August 10, 2016 Thanks Henry...I was basically planning on pointing my SWC in the same direction as I did last year with my D810/24mm prime; SWC is close to a 24mm equivalent lens in 35mm terms. If for example, I like a 20sec exposure in a digital test at 800iso, f/4.0...where would you set the timer for Portra pushed to 800? Keep the same the 20sec or should I set the Reciprocity app with Portra 100/400 at 20sec and use the value of 51sec to expose the film? Marc - i would suggest using ektar rather than portra. The effects of the RF are much better and the colors will be better. Even if due to the slower speed you needed a exposure time of several minutes, id still suggest considering ektar 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19669 Posted August 10, 2016 Doc Henry, These are beautiful! Do you remember what time of day it was shot? If i have good memory it was around 7-8 am morning sun. Thanks for your comment Gaspard Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19670 Posted August 10, 2016 Hadrians Wall, Fuji GW690, Ektar 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19671 Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) Thanks Henry...I was basically planning on pointing my SWC in the same direction as I did last year with my D810/24mm prime; SWC is close to a 24mm equivalent lens in 35mm terms. If for example, I like a 20sec exposure in a digital test at 800iso, f/4.0...where would you set the timer for Portra pushed to 800? Keep the same the 20sec or should I set the Reciprocity app with Portra 100/400 at 20sec and use the value of 51sec to expose the film? Marc I only did some outdoor tests and in the country in early fall with clear weather Firstly with the digital camera and increasing isos you also increase the background noise and you can have the digital banding sometimes with long exposures (sensor heating) With the film it requires longer exposure time in minutes and increased isos also increase the grain but less than digital . So the idea of Adam is good , I'll try next time Ektar 100 In my test I did it with a tele lens 135mm and with Portra 400 push to 800 (just put your isos to 800) but in general for the stars it is better to have wide angle most luminous as possible (example 35mm Summilux) I had tried the Summilux and Summicron , Summilux open at 1.4.See picture below ah Marc I also use a cable release + tripod required as I said above Another remark , urban light pollution influences much on the rendering of the photo You need a dark sky without pollution of the ambient light so far from cities Best Henry Here an example from Jean Marc Lecleire , taken with a 35mm on Kodachrome 64 with 4 hours of exposure ! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Regards Henry Edited August 10, 2016 by Doc Henry 12 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Regards Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=3094184'>More sharing options...
gsgary Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19672 Posted August 10, 2016 Bamburgh beach Northumberland, Fuji GW690, Ektar 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT0227 Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19673 Posted August 10, 2016 Adam, I understand where you are going, however I'm looking to keep the exposure to 30sec. or there about, not much more. If you go longer, stars start to look like footballs, as opposed to dots, due to the earth's rotation. To determine to proper film exposure time would I take the exposure time on my digital test shot I like and plug it into Reciprocity app to get the film's equivalent exposure time? Marc - i would suggest using ektar rather than portra. The effects of the RF are much better and the colors will be better. Even if due to the slower speed you needed a exposure time of several minutes, id still suggest considering ektar 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Mac Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19674 Posted August 10, 2016 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Took a quick picture at my friend's wedding, shot on R6.2 & 80mm Summilux @ f/2 with Tri-X 400. 16 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Took a quick picture at my friend's wedding, shot on R6.2 & 80mm Summilux @ f/2 with Tri-X 400. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=3094198'>More sharing options...
A miller Posted August 10, 2016 Share #19675 Posted August 10, 2016 Adam, I understand where you are going, however I'm looking to keep the exposure to 30sec. or there about, not much more. If you go longer, stars start to look like footballs, as opposed to dots, due to the earth's rotation. To determine to proper film exposure time would I take the exposure time on my digital test shot I like and plug it into Reciprocity app to get the film's equivalent exposure time? Then why not use tmax 400; it doesnt push as well as tri x but has much better RF characteristics than trix and portra 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19676 Posted August 10, 2016 Hadrians Wall, Fuji GW690, Ektar Bamburgh beach Northumberland, Fuji GW690, Ektar Very nice color Gary with Ektar Thanks for posting Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19677 Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) mac_t_20160808_000043480018-Edit.jpg Took a quick picture at my friend's wedding, shot on R6.2 & 80mm Summilux @ f/2 with Tri-X 400. Tony lovely shot i like the light contre jour giving in relief under the two faces . Nice bokeh Thanks and you are always welcome Best Henry Edited August 10, 2016 by Doc Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19678 Posted August 10, 2016 Recent scan of old negative. M6 Tx400. Tony. Nice grain in this b&w picture giving a beautiful aspect Thanks Tony Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19679 Posted August 10, 2016 Adam, With the Leica-0 Leica really produced a replica of one of the original ur-leicas, the main differences being a housing a few mm higher to accommodate modern 35mm film rolls, and a lens which is coated (it still can flare quite a bit though). The 28mm summaron lens was designed something like 35 years later, and adding it to this body would be practical but quite out of style. There is no rangefinder on the camera, one has to guess. The finder used on the year 2000 replica is so bad that it never made it into mass production even in the 20ies! (the 2004 replica has a finder similar to that of the Leica I model A) There is a distance scale for focusing the lens, though no depth of field indication. Working with apertures limited from 3.5 to 12 can be challenging. Not forgetting to cap the lens before film transport as well (there is no self-capping shutter). And also having to change the shutter times somewhere in the middle of winding the film on is something to get used to. It is a real cool camera, I'm having a lot of fun with it, and it does take quite sharp pictures (the above one is un-sharpened by the glass). 151017_3_Leica-0_0010.jpg Leica-0, CN-200, ns Rgds Christoph The picture is beautiful for color and definition Christoph Thanks Rg H 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share #19680 Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) This is what happens to poorly processed Kodak Ektachrome slides from 1968. I had them done at a local lab in Thailand. A few years ago I got them out and was shocked to see how badly they had held up. The colors are almost gone, even the mounts were falling apart. My camera at the time was a Petri Racer with a 1.8 lens. I have always liked range finder cameras, simple to operate, simple to own. And Nice pictures and sunset The scene is charming beautiful landscape Wayne it's normal if you develop in Thailand my same remark for VN Thanks Rg H Edited August 10, 2016 by Doc Henry 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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