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The peculiar picture of the lilies looked like this when imported into LR:

 

Scan2129.jpg

 

Not particularly interesting. Looking at the develop actions in its history, I cropped, tweaked the clarity, converted to B&W and decreased the blue and aqua to darken the sky, then did the split toning. I don't really know why it ended up looking so over-processed, but it took on that appearance when I set the amount of highlight saturation for the split-toning. I guess the lesson is do to as little as possible to film scans.

 

C.

 

Chris in my opinion it's better you keep this picture for the color , the rose is beautiful

the rest is less important.

Lilies are difficult to have a nice rendering , may be in black but you lose color and

may be in macro.

In your place ,  I'll take these flowers nearer like with your Vario Elmar 80-200

Thank you for showing your work

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Another Kodak TMAX100, i have no time to scan and I discover today the rendering

of this film and it's the first time I took pictures with this film :)

 

developed in Kodak Prof D76 at 22°C

 

 

The relief effect is amazing , nice contrast , no correction

 

 

DN , River Han

Sept 2016

Windy day

 

 

Leica MP-Summilux 50 Asph-Kodak TMAX100

Nikon Coolscan 5000

 

 

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Best

Henry

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For Tiberius color of Ektar under the tropics :)  no cast !

 

 

under heat wave 43°C

 

Tam Ky

Aug 2016

 

Kodak Ektar 100-Leica M7-Summilux 35 Asph

Not corrected with photo software

 

 

 

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Henry

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Here's an even older Volvo, restored by the gentleman in the photo. Unfortunately it was very underexposed (my fault) and is therefore very grainy.

 

Scan1860.jpg

 

Yes Chris , it's nice with grain like an old and vintage picture :)

Keep it

Thank you

Henry

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The peculiar picture of the lilies looked like this when imported into LR:

 

Scan2129.jpg

 

Not particularly interesting. Looking at the develop actions in its history, I cropped, tweaked the clarity, converted to B&W and decreased the blue and aqua to darken the sky, then did the split toning. I don't really know why it ended up looking so over-processed, but it took on that appearance when I set the amount of highlight saturation for the split-toning. I guess the lesson is do to as little as possible to film scans.

 

C.

I find this to be true, especially with slide film scans. Less is more. But...with slide scans, I find I am pulling my hair out getting my slide scans to look like they do on the light table. It's alway a big disappointment when I see the scan. Makes me want to forget about color slide and just shoot digital (sorry Henry), especially after seeing Wattsy's website with some of his M9 images.

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Good looking friend, indeed.

 

.... and the lady is beautiful  GNU :)

 

and in addition softness of lines , softness of color with beautiful

color, no equivalent elsewhere . Show me a same kind of picture in digital

without correction , I'll  stop film and take again really and sincerily my

2 M digital cameras ,

Edited by Doc Henry
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My ballad the last day in the city continue ...

 

 

Heart of love in street

Aug 2016

 

 

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Best

Henry

 

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Henry, with digital, I think there will always be a need for processing the RAW file unless you shoot jpgs, but I find that with RAW there is a lot more flexibility. I do agree that digital is sometimes too sharp, but I think there are ways to curb that in processing. When I process my digital files, I strive to make them as film-like as I can. I have several digital cameras, but none can give me the color of slide film, but one does come closer than the others and that's a SIGMA Foveon camera. 

 

 

Don't worry, lately I still prefer film, but I really wish I could get my slides right. It's always such a let down, especially right after viewing them on a light table. Maybe it's my lack of understanding my scan software (VueScan). 

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What's the crisis? Well, this camera is really quite hard to focus. The pseudo-split image is OK when it doesn't black out in one half or the other, but the collar of microprisms are nearly worthless. Wearing glasses it is nearly impossible to focus. Without them, and having adjusted the viewfinder's optical correction for my very mild right eye myopia I can make some sense of the microprisms. I don't really like the fake split-image devices on SLR focusing screens, but I'm going to have to use it if I'm going to keep this. The second issue is that the ergonomics of the R9 body aren't suiting me. It's not safe to carry the camera in the right hand by the grip alone - it's neither big enough for my palm, nor deep enough to hold with my fingers in a pincer grip. I probably ought not to say this on this forum, but I'm missing the F6 when I use this lumpenkamera, as I can simply get on and make the photo with my F6s and don't have to struggle against the camera. I do the composition and envisage the result in terms of aperture and shutter speed, they do the rest.

 

 

Chris, have you considered converting the mounts to Nikon (Leitax?) and using the F6?

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Buzzzzzzzzzzzzz .....

 

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Canon EOS 5, Macro EF 1:2.8/100, Agfa Vista Plus 200

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Henry, with digital, I think there will always be a need for processing the RAW file unless you shoot jpgs, but I find that with RAW there is a lot more flexibility. I do agree that digital is sometimes too sharp, but I think there are ways to curb that in processing. When I process my digital files, I strive to make them as film-like as I can. I have several digital cameras, but none can give me the color of slide film, but one does come closer than the others and that's a SIGMA Foveon camera. 

 

 

Don't worry, lately I still prefer film, but I really wish I could get my slides right. It's always such a let down, especially right after viewing them on a light table. Maybe it's my lack of understanding my scan software (VueScan). 

 

Yes GNU I agree .

When I used my M digital I always Post Processed in DNG or RAW as you said , never Jpeg.

Even I did it , in DNG the color of digital is not faithful and "approximate" as I said (you all have seen

my comparison color film  versus digital). You have software to attenuate the sharpness and add

grains ..... but put grains by modifying , "smoothing" "square pixels" * is never similar with natural

grain of film , its IMO not possible to have the same aspect.That's also the reason you have no "nuance"

when you watch digit pictures ! nuance contributes to bring this "soul" in film who lacks in digital.

An example , compare and look "pores of skin" (I did it and already show you , see my previous posts)

it doesn't  look like pores !

 

Foveon sensor ** has a good point , it has 3 layers of RGB (RedGreenBlue) and color is a little

similar with film but lines and edges are still digital ie sharp , sometimes too sharp !

 

Finally digital always needs correction and post processing (PP)

 

Best

Henry

 

* the only thing the stupid robot camera knows and can do

 

**

https://www.chassimages.com/forum/index.php/topic,215681.0.html

https://www.chassimages.com/forum/index.php/topic,215687.0.html

https://www.chassimages.com/forum/index.php/topic,215682.0.html

Edited by Doc Henry
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A Wiltshire Landscape.  MP, 35mm Summaron f2.8, Portra 160, Canadian Film Lab dev/scan.

 

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Here's an even older Volvo, restored by the gentleman in the photo. Unfortunately it was very underexposed (my fault) and is therefore very grainy.

 

Scan1860.jpg

 

 

Good old PV 44...

 

a 1969 Amazon:

 

36331193072_9d10b7f1f9_b.jpg

1995 Les Courtines by JM__, on Flickr

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