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You can see this with over-agitation too, just to be awkward. If there is fast turbulent flow through the sprocket holes the film adjacent to them sees a lot more fresh developer molecules than the rest of the film. It's a bit like rubbing a print's highlights with a finger while it is in the developer tray to darken them. The clue here is that if it were over agitation those stripes should be on both sides of the film, though not so pronounced on the side that was uppermost in the tank.

 

There are two things to do here: a bit more initial agitation gently tumbling the tank in your hands, and you might try a presoak in water (when the emulsion is saturated with water it can only take up the developer more slowly and there is less likelihood of some bits getting more than others)

 

Chris.

 

Chris , my agitation in  Paterson tank  is always "gentle" never strong (10 seconds per minute)

Paterson delivers an agitator for that , I make the same for color film but in continous  .

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Yep, got a bucket full of Ektar 100, and on the Doc's orders will get some Portra too.

Not sure if my anti-social nature will handle the masses though, lots of people, lots.

Gary

Key is to be there after the crowds head back (most are day trippers).

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And now a question to you all from me. I have found amongst a bunch of old camera stuff two exposed, undeveloped rolls - one 620 roll of Kodak Verichrome Pan and one roll of Ilford FP4. I'm not sure of the ages, but let's say probably from the 50s or 60s.

 

Would anyone have any suggestions of development times for them. I use XTOL 1:1 usually, or I have some Rodinal or could mix up some Caffenol. Has anyone tried anything like this?

On old exposed films, I've headed for stand developing to play it safe.

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...Excellent choice Eoin. My 1N is starting to become erratic regarding the battery, sometimes draining a new one over the course of a couple of days. Even though it's an intermittent problem it has given me a very good excuse to get a 1V, which is my dream EOS camera. If you have the HS with the NP-E2 battery you'll get the truly necessary 10fps continuous mode :D Handling-wise the EOS 1 series cameras feel just lovely, like a true extension of the hand. The follow AF on the 1N is very good so I can only imagine it must be great on the 1V. Would work great for cycling ;)...

Yes - There's nothing I need more than the ability to shoot a 36-exp roll of film in 3-1/2 seconds :rolleyes:

 

Cycling is one of the intentions. Actually, I usually shoot the EF 300 at single shot rather than continuous on my 1DX at track racing. Its focusing speed is stunning. I'm looking forward to some macro with my MP-E 65, and using my TS-E 24, and Otus 55, and EF 85L, and ZE 135 Apo... I'd better stop there.

 

I'm just trying to finalise the camera deal at the moment.

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On old exposed films, I've headed for stand developing to play it safe.

 

Phil and Eoin, you must increased your devt time and GsGary dev in b&w with good result.

In any case , you can dev them to see what it's inside these films. A great moment

to discover !

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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In case anyone is interested my site, link below, is finally back online. 

Philip wow the first page is a big lion very impressive and after you have Film is photography

I like it and superb images inside

Thanks Philip, really glad to find film pictures with natural color specially in "Nature"

Best

Henry

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Wonderful, Henry!!!

 

 

 

Landscape in b&w now

 

French Alpes

Haute Savoie

1990's

 

Ilford FP4 -Leica R4S-50 Summicron

 

attachicon.gifImage3clusilfordPanF+feslfht+++-2-950.jpg

 

Best

Henry

 

Beautiful!

 

 

Thank you Eoin and Paul for your comment.

already 27 years for this picture and like in the first day ,  no deterioration of the image

same notice in print with my enlarger

Best

Henry

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Well I'm feeling very irritated today. I noticed on the shots taken yesterday with the Rolleiflex FT that there was back focus, so I used up a roll of film today shooting a sheet of paper with text on it at an oblique angle. At closest focus at f4 the plane of focus is six inches behind the spot that the viewfinder said was in focus. There are no Rollei service people in Canada, and if I send it to the USA it will probably attract duty again on its return, nor do I feel I should have to spend a few hundred dollars on a service. So now I'm trying to contact the seller in Korea to arrange a return (I'm within the 30 day period that eBay allows). I knew I should have stuck with the 500c and the Sonnar 150mm for these kind of portraits, but these Rolleiflexes are so damnably addictive.

 

C.

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