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Similar time/place etc to the SA21 shot I posted, this time with M/F.

 

SWC

FP4+

R09 1:25

Epson 4870

Gary

 

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I really like the first one Henry.

 

 prefer the black and white one by far Henry.

 

Thanks, Henry.  Hope you are getting along ok.

 

B&W for me, Henry.

 

Colour for me Henry, but to my mind blossom is all about colour.

Gary

 

Thank you gentlemen , for your comments and for your choice :)

Like Philip cherry is also nice in b&w  :)  ... but in color it's nice too :D

Best regards

Henry

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Similar time/place etc to the SA21 shot I posted, this time with M/F.

 

SWC

FP4+

R09 1:25

Epson 4870

Gary

 

No flare here Gary and it's also nice perhaps a little nicer :)

Thanks

Henry

Gary I sent you a MP :) about  your MP camera

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Goodness knows how they got this up here, hopefully it doesn't shift.

 

MP

50 Summicron M

Fomapan 200

R09 1:25

Plustek 8100

Gary

 

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Doug and Chris, thank you for this info. Very helpful.

 

I think the KGOON is as good as it gets. I had the later large ball head but it would not rotate quite 90º to the side making it pretty useless for portrait orientation shots. The KGOON on the Leitz table top tripod makes an excellent chest pod too. 

 

Sure, certainly agree on this! I've got the pixi 2.0, and that is capable of holding a bronica etrc. Which I guess is about similar in weight to a Hasselblad

 

Really excellent results, Chris. I will have to try some Pan F in Rodinal methinks. Today I found an XP2 at my local camera shop which I will shoot this weekend. I think I will try it at EI1600 and develop it in HC-110 to see how it turns out. 

 

Realising just how much Rodinal I have stuffed into the back of the chemistry fridge, I decided I had better start using it up, so I did today's roll of Pan F in it at 11 minutes in 1+ 50.

 

33838070996_95c126d27f_c.jpg

Willow by chrism229, on Flickr

 

33065737563_1f4eb944c6_c.jpg

Phoenix by chrism229, on Flickr

 

33879363795_3d26386e5a_c.jpg

Ice Floes by chrism229, on Flickr

 

C.

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There a rather pretty little forest here in The Hague which goes by the name of the hyacinth forest (hyacintenbos) Ockenburgh due to the very large amount of blue hyacints that grow there. This is from a few weeks ago when they evidently hadn't come out. I thought this interesting tree was worth a shot.

 

33587418082_57d1c10b1a_b.jpg

Flickr

80 Planar Ektar 100 (wet mount)

Edited by philipus
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Kodak TMAX100-Leica R4S-Summicron 50 (1986)

 

attachicon.gifImage4rscankodtmax100r4slfht+++1000.jpg

 

Kodak Portra 160-Leicaflex SL-Summicron 50 (1970)

 

attachicon.gifImage17cerrscankp16slfesctlfht+++1000.jpg

 

Which you prefer ? color or b&w or both ?

same wild cherry  :) in contre-jour

 

Best

Henry

 

Kodak Portra 160 dev myself in Tetenal at 38°C

Kodak TMAX100 dev myself in Kodak Pro D76 at 22°C

 

Hello Henry,

 

Nice photos both.

 

But: No question.

 

Color is nicer.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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I think the KGOON is as good as it gets. I had the later large ball head but it would not rotate quite 90º to the side making it pretty useless for portrait orientation shots. The KGOON on the Leitz table top tripod makes an excellent chest pod too. 

 

Hello Doug,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

A KGOON should go to 90 degrees with no problem.

 

Is it possible that someone disassembled it & then reassembled it not quite correctly?

 

By the way: A properly assembled KGOON requires NO lubrication anywhere.

 

If you take it apart & reassemble it: It would be good to wipe off all traces of any lubricant that anyone might have applied.

 

Lubricant in a device like this becomes a dust & dirt collector.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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Chris , one question about developer dilution. You think it's better to dilute like you 1+50

or use pure or dilute 1+10 or another dilution . How about grain when you dilute 1+50 versus 1+10

how about contrast , defintion , b&w tone etc... better in what dilution ?

and also dev time ? I think much time when you dilute

Thanks

Henry

 

I bought a stock of Blazinal (as Rodinal is known in Canada) when it was hard to find, and I had heard it keeps forever. My open bottle is the colour of brown ale but still works fine. I had intended it for stand developing, but waiting an hour is a bit slow for me. I don't mind the 11 minutes it takes to do Pan F at ISO 50, and I will try 8 minutes and ISO 25 as Pan F has a tendency to come out with high contrast (which is unfortunate, given that I like Pan F for bright sunshine and snow scenes, where high contrast is a disadvantage). I've had good results with it at ISO 25 in HC-110. The few times I have used Rodinal at higher concentrations I've experienced more grain and the short developing times mean that precision about time is a must. If I had three hands I would be able to start the timer as I pour it in, and I'd have to be shaking out the last drops as the timer went off, again with the stop bath in my third hand to be poured in instantly! I prefer to enjoy my chemistry rather than be stressed!

 

Chris

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Hello Doug,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

A KGOON should go to 90 degrees with no problem.

 

Is it possible that someone disassembled it & then reassembled it not quite correctly?

 

By the way: A properly assembled KGOON requires NO lubrication anywhere.

 

If you take it apart & reassemble it: It would be good to wipe off all traces of any lubricant that anyone might have applied.

 

Lubricant in a device like this becomes a dust & dirt collector.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

 

Hi Michael,

 

Thank you for the reply! The KGOON does indeed go to 90 degrees, and beyond. I have two of them. It was the more recent 14110 ball head I used for a while that would not go to 90 degrees. Another nice feature of the KGOON is that it works with either a 1/4" or 3/8" thread on both the tripod and camera end. I have both tripods and cameras with both sizes. That ability was also lost with the newer ball heads.

 

Thank you too for the comment about lubricants. When I opened one KGOON to replace a broken spring I found no lubricant inside. I figured it had worked that way for decades so I didn't even think about adding any lubricant.

Edited by Doug A
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Really excellent results, Chris. I will have to try some Pan F in Rodinal methinks. Today I found an XP2 at my local camera shop which I will shoot this weekend. I think I will try it at EI1600 and develop it in HC-110 to see how it turns out. 

 

1600? That would be 18 minutes at 20ºC, using 1+49. I haven't done that with 35mm, just 120. I did see a very big difference in quality between 120 and 35mm when I did 3200 (which I won't do again, as a tiny bit of further underexposure means an unusable negative). It will be interesting to see if 35mm holds up as well as 120 at 1600. This is another example of 120 XP2 at 1600:

 

33573286945_a1abefb3de_c.jpg

Experiment in Push Processing 2 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

Perhaps I should do a 35mm at 1600 as well.

 

C.

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Gulfport, Florida, 2017, IIIf, 50/2.8 Elmar, Tri-X, Ilfotec DD-X, BEOON, Fuji X-E2, 50/4 Componon

 

I was pleased that I not only got a shot of the pelican as he was taking off but also that he is fairly well centered. What I don't like is that black line at the top of the frame. It appears on all of the images on the roll. (The line is parallel to the edge of the negative. I rotated the scan a little because I didn't have the camera quite square with the opening in the BEOON 35mm mask.) The line doesn't not appear on the next roll I shot with the same camera so I don't think it was the camera. Any thoughts?

 

--Doug

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Gulfport, Florida, 2017, IIIf, 50/2.8 Elmar, Tri-X, Ilfotec DD-X, BEOON, Fuji X-E2, 50/4 Componon

 

I was pleased that I not only got a shot of the pelican as he was taking off but also that he is fairly well centered. What I don't like is that black line at the top of the frame. It appears on all of the images on the roll. (The line is parallel to the edge of the negative. I rotated the scan a little because I didn't have the camera quite square with the opening in the BEOON 35mm mask.) The line doesn't not appear on the next roll I shot with the same camera so I don't think it was the camera. Any thoughts?

 

--Doug

Grit in the felt light-trap?

Roll your own or commercially done film?

Either way, nice shot.

Gary

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Grit in the felt light-trap?

Roll your own or commercially done film?

Either way, nice shot.

Gary

 

Thanks! That seems to be the most likely cause. I develop my own film with a Hewes reel so there is nothing touching the image portion of the film.

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Thanks! That seems to be the most likely cause. I develop my own film with a Hewes reel so there is nothing touching the image portion of the film.

Given the camera I wondered if you used the Leitz reloadable cassettes? That would/should completely eliminate grit.

Gary

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Given the camera I wondered if you used the Leitz reloadable cassettes? That would/should completely eliminate grit.

Gary

 

The reloadable cassettes are on my list of things to look into. Mostly because I almost never finish shooting a roll of film before I get impatient and develop it. 12-exposure loads would be just about right.

--Doug

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Wonderful, Brendan. I always look forward to seeing your distinctively crafted, beautifully seen pictures.

 

Thank you Phil!

 

Since I have decided to only shoot film on two major trips that I have coming up later this year, I decided that is was finally time to buy a Leica with a built-in meter.  I found a nice M6 classic over the weekend, and just got around to developing the first results from it.  Here are a few from the first roll!

 

M6, Voigtlander 35/2.5 Color-Skopar, HP5, D76:

 

33070349903_1afb196f6d_c.jpg

Untitled by Brendan | Toews, on Flickr

 

33070359953_f9f34bd665_c.jpg

Untitled by Brendan | Toews, on Flickr

 

33040031554_d3e7397155_c.jpg

Untitled by Brendan | Toews, on Flickr

Edited by B.Toews
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Thank you Phil!

 

Since I have decided to only shoot film on two major trips that I have coming up later this year, I decided that is was finally time to buy a Leica with a built-in meter.  I found a nice M6 classic over the weekend, and just got around to developing the first results from it.  Here are a few from the first roll!

 

M6, Voigtlander 35/2.5 Color-Skopar, HP5, D76:

 

 

Untitled by Brendan | Toews, on Flickr

 

Untitled by Brendan | Toews, on Flickr

 

Untitled by Brendan | Toews, on Flickr

 

 

Well you've certainly hit the ground running with the new camera! Where are you heading on the trips later this year?

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Well you've certainly hit the ground running with the new camera! Where are you heading on the trips later this year?

 

 

Thanks Phil!  First I will be doing a road trip from Ontario to the Rockies, then spending the summer out in northern Alberta.  I plan to make a second trip to Jasper National Park in August for a few days of backcountry hiking, then I will drive back to Ontario.  I'm hoping to have a bit of time to stop at a few provincial and national parks to do some landscape shooting on the way out and back.  After that I will be aiming to spend 6 weeks traveling around Japan in October and November, starting in Tokyo and working my way down to Kagoshima and the island of Yakushima.

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Realising just how much Rodinal I have stuffed into the back of the chemistry fridge, I decided I had better start using it up, so I did today's roll of Pan F in it at 11 minutes in 1+ 50.

 

33838070996_95c126d27f_c.jpg

Willow by chrism229, on Flickr

 

33065737563_1f4eb944c6_c.jpg

Phoenix by chrism229, on Flickr

 

33879363795_3d26386e5a_c.jpg

Ice Floes by chrism229, on Flickr

 

C.

 

Lovely, Chris.  I like the last in particular, although to my eyes it is a bit flat.  

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