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I like it David (and feel the same about approaching strangers). 

 

This is why I could never do street photography. I just could not ask strangers if I could take their photographs, maybe it is my 'Britishness'! I have watched one or two of Eric Kim's videos on youtube who says he can teach you how to get over this fear, but old dogs and new tricks etc.

This was my one attempt at Street Photography and by the time that I had the shot in focus they all started smiling for me. Notice how I gave myself the barrier of the door between the subject and myself and, distance to runattachicon.gif19585553625_29a6d0d65a_o.jpg.

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5222 is Kodak Double-X, motion picture film in 35mm format. It's my favourite b&w film because it looks similar to Tri-X, pushes as well and - importantly - dries quite flat.

 

I'm pretty happy with this frame, though it's a bit mushy and washed out grain-wise which I dislike. In my rather limited experience the tricky thing with stand/semi-stand is that it makes it difficult to reproduce the results. Sometimes results (and some frames on a roll) are good whereas other times (and other frames) are not. It offers the same benefit as Diafine that one can develop films of various ISO (or even a film shot a wildly different EI) at the same time in a tank. But Diafine is better because it follows a strict protocol, 4+4 minutes (or a bit longer, time is pretty irrelevant it seems), which gives reproducable results. The same is the case with pushing - Diafine does that really well with many films (though there are some drawbacks in terms of grain size etc) and while stand/semi stand offers that too (letting highlights and shadows develop fully, as I understand it) it's hit or miss in terms of the results. Stand/semi stand with HC-110 (which is the only developer I've tried it with) is also temperature-dependent. Diafine on the other hand can be used with pretty much identical results in the range of 21-29C (or 70-85F) which is great for someone like me who lives in a temperate environment.

  

What were you hoping would be better in the image ? 

I have not heard of film 5222, who makes that ?

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Quiz : what is it ?  :)

 

Kodachrome 64

MP

50 LA  Leica lens the best  :)

 

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Rg

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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This is why I could never do street photography. I just could not ask strangers if I could take their photographs, maybe it is my 'Britishness'! I have watched one or two of Eric Kim's videos on youtube who says he can teach you how to get over this fear, but old dogs and new tricks etc.

This was my one attempt at Street Photography and by the time that I had the shot in focus they all started smiling for me. Notice how I gave myself the barrier of the door between the subject and myself and, distance to runattachicon.gif19585553625_29a6d0d65a_o.jpg.

 

:)

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Sometimes I stop strangers on the street and randomly ask them to pose for a portrait.  It let's me pretend  - on a fantasy level - that I am a photographer who knows what he is doing.  Here is one from a roll that was lost in my brief case for about 9 months that I finally just got developed...

Lower Manhattan, NYC

KODAK TRI-X

 

 

Adam,

 

No pretending needed; an excellent portrait - and I am quite sure you know what you do.

Btw, did you send them the pic?

 

Rgds

 

Christoph

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For Adam and Chris

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=257305&gclid=CMGlpYWr68oCFSsW0wod5dgFQA&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&is=REG&A=details

What do you think of this camera ?

The film is back :)

Rg

Henry

 

A very respectable camera, and portable as these things go. It will have some limitation on the movements available compared to a full-blown view camera, and this won't matter initially, but when you get confident with it and start mucking with Herr Scheimpflug, you might eventually want more. This is designed for its portability rather than its flexibility. I'm feeling my way with this at present. The photo a few pages back of L'Egoïste has some front tilt so that the plane of focus is angled away from the camera, allowing the book titles, the M2 and the title of the magazine all to be in focus, for example. This may not interest you at all, and if you intend simply to enjoy the benefits of a much larger negative, and ignore the possible movements, this would be a camera that could keep you happy all your days.

 

A Graflex Crown Graphic (leaf shutter only, Speed Graphics have a focal plane shutter too) is an older, cheaper way of achieving the same end. I bought one on eBay and a couple to cannibalise for parts. Like the Toyo, it has no movements at all on the rear standard, and limited rise/fall and tilt on the front standard. It has been superseded by a Chamonix 4x5, which isn't meant to be as portable (but works fine in a backpack) but has better movements. The 10x8 stays at home as I'm just not crazy enough to drag it outdoors as yet. You will need to supply a lens, and mount it on the lens board. If you want more than one lens, it's best to buy more lensboards. A special spanner is required to affix the lens. Lenses have their shutters built in, and they come in three common sizes, each needing its own size hole in the lensboard. A good solid tripod, a cable release and a few film holders will be needed. Then you need to think about how you will develop the negatives, and there are some easy ways to set about this.

 

The biggest thing is that you are taking on a different challenge altogether from Leica photography. Generally you will know when you set out what you intend to photograph. You may go at a certain time of day to get the right light. You might take only two shots, or perhaps as many as six. Then you come home, develop them (and figure out what went wrong in my case!). Next day you do it again. You will need a scanner capable of scanning the negs unless you plan to contact print only. Even older or lower end Epsons can cope just fine. It's a whole world of fun, but it is essentially a different occupation from using a Leica. I'm very happy to do both!

 

Chris

Edited by chrism
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Another from last month's visit to Lacock Abbey - a view in the inner courtyard.  M7, 35mm Summarit f2.8, HP5+, Rodinal.

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A very respectable camera, and portable as these things go. It will have some limitation on the movements available compared to a full-blown view camera, and this won't matter initially, but when you get confident with it and start mucking with Herr Scheimpflug, you might eventually want more. This is designed for its portability rather than its flexibility. I'm feeling my way with this at present. The photo a few pages back of L'Egoïste has some front tilt so that the plane of focus is angled away from the camera, allowing the book titles, the M2 and the title of the magazine all to be in focus, for example. This may not interest you at all, and if you intend simply to enjoy the benefits of a much larger negative, and ignore the possible movements, this would be a camera that could keep you happy all your days.

 

A Graflex Crown Graphic (leaf shutter only, Speed Graphics have a focal plane shutter too) is an older, cheaper way of achieving the same end. I bought one on eBay and a couple to cannibalise for parts. Like the Toyo, it has no movements at all on the rear standard, and limited rise/fall and tilt on the front standard. It has been superseded by a Chamonix 4x5, which isn't meant to be as portable (but works fine in a backpack) but has better movements. The 10x8 stays at home as I'm just not crazy enough to drag it outdoors as yet. You will need to supply a lens, and mount it on the lens board. If you want more than one lens, it's best to buy more lensboards. A special spanner is required to affix the lens. Lenses have their shutters built in, and they come in three common sizes, each needing its own size hole in the lensboard. A good solid tripod, a cable release and a few film holders will be needed. Then you need to think about how you will develop the negatives, and there are some easy ways to set about this.

 

The biggest thing is that you are taking on a different challenge altogether from Leica photography. Generally you will know when you set out what you intend to photograph. You may go at a certain time of day to get the right light. You might take only two shots, or perhaps as many as six. Then you come home, develop them (and figure out what went wrong in my case!). Next day you do it again. You will need a scanner capable of scanning the negs unless you plan to contact print only. Even older or lower end Epsons can cope just fine. It's a whole world of fun, but it is essentially a different occupation from using a Leica. I'm very happy to do both!

 

Chris

 

Henry - Chris is better positioned to opine, but what I see is a potentially very meaningful investment on a number of levels.  So you should think it through and price it all out from end to end.  For a 4x5 entry point, you might want to start with a Crown Graphic like what Chris has.  They are very inexpensive and can be bought with lenses and will give you a way to do the end to end exposing, processing and printing very cost efficiently.  Just a thought...

 

Thanks Adam and Chris for your advices. :)

For now I do not plan to move to MF, but maybe I will pass 6x6 and after the MF as with this camera

I saw that the prices are quite competitive.  It will also require that I purchase a scanner MF like a Flextight.

Best

Henry

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Sometimes I stop strangers on the street and randomly ask them to pose for a portrait.  It let's me pretend  - on a fantasy level - that I am a photographer who knows what he is doing.  Here is one from a roll that was lost in my brief case for about 9 months that I finally just got developed...

Lower Manhattan, NYC

KODAK TRI-X

Very nice Adam

A great shot ... with flash ?

Thanks Adam

Nice result even you have just developed after 9 months

Bravo the film !

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Nice one Marc, and a good choice of champagne, too :) I think the pose and look work really well and that you've shot from a suitable distance (any closer and the head would have been too big; this is with the 80 Planar?). The one thing I would have done differently - though I fully understand it may be a deliberate choice to achieve a certain muted/dusty look - is the colour balance. I would probably have cooled it a bit (mainly adding blue and some cyan I think) which would have crisped the image up a little (to use a technical term). But the image "works" as is because I can imagine the colour balance is because of the light in the room.

Thanks a lot for your advice Philipus! I have tried the "cooler" version (more blue) and I really like it! It is a completely different atmosphere. And yes, it was the 80 Planar.

best regards

Marc

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Sometimes I stop strangers on the street and randomly ask them to pose for a portrait.  It let's me pretend  - on a fantasy level - that I am a photographer who knows what he is doing.  Here is one from a roll that was lost in my brief case for about 9 months that I finally just got developed...

Lower Manhattan, NYC

KODAK TRI-X

This is a killer shot Adam! It was defintely worth to develop this film. These are the moments where I think to myself that living in such a big city has also a lot of pros ;)

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