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Hi Max - nice to hear from you. The yellow filter is probably the single most useful lens filter for general B&W landscape photogtaphy. The reason for this is that it will generally provide just enough detail in the blue sky and separation of the sky with any clouds in a way that doesnt introduce exaggerated shadows and contrast, which the darker (orange and red) filters will do. Ansel Adams used all types of filters, although he regarded the medium yellow as the most used for the look that resembles more closely what the scene actually appeared in person. He then obviously used other filters to achieve a more artistic and surreal effect.

The effect of the medum yellow filter will depend on the deepness of the blue in the sky, which is effected by altitude.

The yellow filter is also used to slightly brighten skin tones in street photography and portraiture. This can come in handy at times, although it does sacrifice some speed and increase contrast levels.

Beat,

Adam

Thank you very much Adam!! I really appreciate that you take your time for giving such a detailed description. 

Sunday... this means time for a few more scans. :) 

 

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23189598289_ffbc3f22ec_z.jpg

 

23261822320_db84680fdf_z.jpg

 

22930462623_19a83075ec_z.jpg

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very cool, Chris.  Interesting infrared-looking rendition.  

Are you framing with only the external VF or do you also use a ground glass + prism finder?  Absolutely nothing wrong with your framing; but it took me a while to figure out that the GG+ prism finder was the only way to get precise framing results.  So I just pass this along FWIW...

Best, Adam

Just the external viewfinder - I don't have a ground glass back. These are all walkabout hand held pictures, so I wasn't using a tripod anyway.

 

Love these two. We don't see Caboose like this over here. Did you shoot the bridge from a central viewpoint as well ?

I was just a little to the right. It's surprising how this lens messes with perspective if you don't try to keep things square.

 

The other comment to make is that the little Gossen meter I took with me didn't cope terribly well with the dark subjects against snow and flat grey skies (by which I mean that I didn't cope!) Far too much contrast.

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No, just that I've been making very high quality Ektar scans from 35mm and cannot match the resolution and details of your posts. I thought that either my scanning technique was crap or more likely...

I'm 100% sure that it is the film size.  My photos from Central Park were taken with either 6x6 or 6x9 film backs.  The significantly larger film will provide more space for the tonal range and generally produce an image with finer grain (when the film is fine grain), finer details and smoother tonal transition.   I probably would agree that Ektar benefits disproportionally from the larger film size relative to other film stocks, given its finickiness...  

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Work in the fields 1

 

Adam , what do you think of the green shirt of the farmer ?

 

Fuji Provia 100

MP-90 mm

 

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Best

Henry

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Work in the fields 2

 

Fuji Acros

MP-90 Cron

 

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Henry

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I have to try and remember to not shoot everything at a sufficient shutter speed. I'm stuck in a rut and this looks more interesting to me.

Green looks like Fuji but different in nuance

Nice color Adam

Best

Henry

Henry - Yes - very keen observation! Fuji is known to produce very pleasing greens and blues. But Ektar's saturated and punchy color rendition seems to give full glory to any and all colors (with a slight bias toward favoring red-hues, even within orange tones, which can easily be reversed if undesired).

 

Here is another example of the damp and moss-laden stones and tree-trunks in Central Park. The powerful greens were just as I saw them, and capture the "wow" emotion that I had at the time...

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Ilford Delta100

Dev home Ilfosol S

MP-35 LA

 

Bad and windy weather that day but I like this atmosphere

Saint Michel

 

attachicon.gifImage30mtstmichilforddelta100lfht+++(ht)-2red900.jpg

 

Best

Henry

 

...  to further raise doubt among some of you

Film superiority on definition vs sensor (M8-35 LA)

The St Michel church on the hill and buildings at the bottom are better defined  !

Reason of the blur :  pixels and smoothing by the camera software

Same remark for the clouds

 

Film Ilford Delta 100

crop uncorrected

 

 

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Sensor

crop uncorrected

 

 

Same lens (35 LA) on both cameras , same moment !

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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This might be an unusual place to put this but I'll do it anyway. Someone commented that my grain is a bit prominent on my B&W shots and so I was wondering if my very vigorous agitation was to blame or not so I decided to do a controlled experiment. I developed a few frames of Kentmere 400 in HC-110B at 17c using two different agitation schemes (for vigor and nothing else)

 

On the upper left I used a gentle agitation like a slow roll that took about 2.5-3.0 seconds to complete.

 

On the lower right I used a very vigorous agitation scheme; a very heavy inversion that only took about 2 seconds each (think heavy cocktail shaking)

 

I used the Massive dev recommendation of 1 minute of inversions at the beginning, and then at the top of every minute, 10 seconds of inversion. On the gentle rolling ones I got about 3 or so done in 10 seconds and on the vigorous ones I got about 4 or so.

 

I'm amazed that I didn't see a huge variation in grain and contrast between them. (nor any streaking which leads me to believe that it was my poor temperature retention skills that caused it previously.)

The giant white thing at the bottom of the frame is just my out-of-focus laptop lid.


23453062392_942aef14a1_h.jpg

Edited by rpavich
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This might be an unusual place to put this but I'll do it anyway. Someone commented that my grain is a bit prominent on my B&W shots and so I was wondering if my very vigorous agitation was to blame or not so I decided to do a controlled experiment. I developed a few frames of Kentmere 400 in HC-110B at 17c using two different agitation schemes (for vigor and nothing else)

 

On the upper left I used a gentle agitation like a slow roll that took about 2.5-3.0 seconds to complete.

 

On the lower right I used a very vigorous agitation scheme; a very heavy inversion that only took about 2 seconds each (think heavy cocktail shaking)

 

I used the Massive dev recommendation of 1 minute of inversions at the beginning, and then at the top of every minute, 10 seconds of inversion. On the gentle rolling ones I got about 3 or so done in 10 seconds and on the vigorous ones I got about 4 or so.

 

I'm amazed that I didn't see a huge variation in grain and contrast between them. (nor any streaking which leads me to believe that it was my poor temperature retention skills that caused it previously.)

 

The giant white thing at the bottom of the frame is just my out-of-focus laptop lid.

 

Rpv , what surprised me is the temperature of 17°C ?

Best

Henry

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Fog (frozen) in HP5 Ilford (dev Ilfosol 20-22°C)

 

M7-28 Cron A.

 

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Henry

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Rpv , what surprised me is the temperature of 17°C ?

Best

Henry

My house is a bit chilly and I decided that rather than trying to warm the chem water up and keep it there, I'd just let the film develop at the temp my room (and thus the gallon of filtered water)  is at, that way it won't cool down rapidly or i don't have to futz with it trying to keep the developer and fixer at the same temp.

 

Here is a very tight crop of the softbox shown in the picture. At this magnification you CAN see a definite difference in the grain.

 

Vigorous on the left / gentle agitation on the right.

 

23479535471_ec4b0508de_o.jpg

Edited by rpavich
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21021725160_2fd4bd7aa6_z.jpgLisbon by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

Ilford XP2.

 

And this shot shows me why I love film so much. Look at the grain in the sky... and then the way the film works with the already beautiful hair of the two girls.

 

In fact, the blonde has such amazing hair that I demanded that she marries me... just over twelve years ago.

 

Ric

 

p.s. Perhaps the brunette will be my next wife. :-)

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21021725160_2fd4bd7aa6_z.jpgLisbon by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

Ilford XP2.

 

And this shot shows me why I love film so much. Look at the grain in the sky... and then the way the film works with the already beautiful hair of the two girls.

 

In fact, the blonde has such amazing hair that I demanded that she marries me... just over twelve years ago.

 

Ric

 

p.s. Perhaps the brunette will be my next wife. :-)

Ric - I really like shot.  And now I realize why you've posted it three times in as many weeks...you just can't get that brunette off of your mind!!  :) :)  Quite understandable...good luck with her...

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More tree trunks and fall colors...

The Ramble, Central Park.

EKTAR

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21021725160_2fd4bd7aa6_z.jpgLisbon by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

Ilford XP2.

 

And this shot shows me why I love film so much. Look at the grain in the sky... and then the way the film works with the already beautiful hair of the two girls.

 

In fact, the blonde has such amazing hair that I demanded that she marries me... just over twelve years ago.

 

Ric

 

p.s. Perhaps the brunette will be my next wife. :-)

You are a lucky man Ric

about the grain of the sky I entirely agree with  you :)

Nice picture even with the ladies back :)

Best

Henry

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My house is a bit chilly and I decided that rather than trying to warm the chem water up and keep it there, I'd just let the film develop at the temp my room (and thus the gallon of filtered water)  is at, that way it won't cool down rapidly or i don't have to futz with it trying to keep the developer and fixer at the same temp.

 

Here is a very tight crop of the softbox shown in the picture. At this magnification you CAN see a definite difference in the grain.

 

Vigorous on the left / gentle agitation on the right.

 

23479535471_ec4b0508de_o.jpg

RP , shaking too hard I'm afraid to remove the silver grains

Otherwise thanks for the demonstration pictures

So go to 17°C

Rg

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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