carl_valiquet Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3461 Posted March 5, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) ...As you may suspect, I am very comfortable crossing the boundaries of other's personal space. Not in a violative way, particularly when you recognize the extremely fleeting encounter that is involved. I welcome anyone to come visit me in NYC to shoot together and share experiences. Adam, those b&w images in the snow and wind are spectacular. It would be a joy to go shooting with you one day….preferably in a warmer time of the year! C* Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 5, 2015 Posted March 5, 2015 Hi carl_valiquet, Take a look here I like film...(open thread). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
A miller Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3462 Posted March 5, 2015 You are most welcome, Carl. Perhaps we can set up our own workshop with the primary agenda being "expanding the bounds of personal space" Think we can get Leica to sponsor us? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3463 Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Regarding Henry's earlier question on camera setup for street photography: I wrote a loooong post on my iPhone yesterday, only to lose every word when Tapatalk gave me the pleasure of yet another crash. So here I go again: I'm a learning street photographer, so take everything with a pinch of salt. I invariably use the Summicron 50mm because (a) I'm trying to get very comfortable with the 50mm field of view, having been brought up on 28mm point 'n' shoots throughout my film and digital eras (I've just turned 50 years) and ( it's a good 5-10 metres away from the subject, as opposed to the 2-4m of a 28mm. Oh, and I do have a 28mm Elmarit, but I'm now a bit puzzled as what I should do with it, as it's too wide for my style of streets, and too narrow for where I want to go with landscapes. (We shall see, but I think a 40mm Hasselblad Xpan is later calling to me for landscapes). But for me 50mm is close enough to capture both subject and surrounding context without telephoto creepyness, but far enough away not to upset the locals - the Swiss being shy creatures, easily startled ("the camera is stealing my soul. Arrgghhh!") I load up with ISO 400 XP2 and set to f8, and let the M6's metering tell me the shutter speed. The 1/1000 speed limit is plenty for a European winter, (although I've been playing with a three stop ND filter on bright, snowy days, although not much "street" up on a ski resort!). Occasionally, a sunny day has pushed me to f11 or more, but f8 is usually plenty. And f8 and 1/125 (ISO 400) is almost always spot on for overcast days, as many people here already know. Camera shake occasionally trips me up, but to be honest getting a little motion blur into the shot is always fun so I'm often on the edge of what's hand holdable - which is why I start snapping at f8 and then drop down even as far as f16 later on. Handheld at 1/30 seems to work, and when warmer weather comes I'm going to see if sitting on a bench can let me play down to 1/15 or even 1/8. I see wonderful motion blur pictures on Flickr with a stationary subject in focus and passersby streaking across the image: but when I check out the exifs on the digital snaps, I see 1/4s or 1/2s. I don't know where I'd start handholding down to such speeds, so I'm guessing they're using tripods and remote shutter release. Seems a bit... cheating... to use a tripod and remote release for street photography. But ok, I'll try it sometime. Focusing is the thing and I continue to play with three alternatives: 1. The usual rangefinding focusing, which isn't easy with subjects walking towards or away from me: there it is... oh no, hang on, erm, yes, erm no. Click! Oh dammit... 2. Then there's the digital-style "zone focusing" where I focus on something around the same distance as to where I aim to capture the walking subject, and then click the shutter when he or she enters the area - this works, but as the "something" is invariably the ground or lamppost or something else unphotographable, I feel a bit daft, to be honest. But yes, it works quite well. 9 out of 10 are nicely focused (and 8 of the remaining 9 are still terrible compositions of uninteresting subjects). 3. Lastly, I've recently started setting the focusing range on the Summicron so that the aperture marker is set to the infinity mark as per book for landscape photography, and simply leave it there. F8 already gives a huge depth of field, and the early experiments show that this approach works. The depth of field scale on the Summicron 50mm isn't the best because the markings are very compressed (owners can have a quick look and confirm) so I don't get that feeling that the infinity mark is *exactly* on the f8. But a couple of reels of 35mm has shown me that it's close enough, and focusing is no longer an issue. Phew. Shall probably continue to focus this way, and concentrate on learning to handhold at low shutter speeds. Everyone here knows that I'm only six months or so into my so called return to film, although the truth is that whilst I'm old enough to have owned 2-3 film cameras before the digital revolution, they were point 'n' shoots with the simplest indoors/outdoors and person/mountains settings. So I continue to learn the balance between aperture and shutter speed (thank god for metering, but already I'm second guessing quite well) and of course ISO, although XP2 leaves that nice and constant. HCB said that your first 10,000 snaps are the worst, and with about 9,700 to go I hope he's right. All the blah blah blah above is all about the basics, and the real world experience of focusing walking subjects at the right depth of field with a handheld camera. I hope that one day all that'll be second nature, and then my editing can concentrate on deleting poor compositions, with badly exposed, shakey or plain out of focus pictures being few and far between. Ric Edited March 5, 2015 by Guest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bateleur Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3464 Posted March 5, 2015 [ATTACH]487322[/ATTACH] Kodak 64 MP Cron 50 Best Henry Gorgeous light and sense of space. I love this picture Henry! Regards Charles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3465 Posted March 5, 2015 In a way I prefer subjects that have an implied movement/energy but actually stand still! IIIg, 5cm Summciron Collapsible, Tri-X, Rodinal. (Not bad for a 1957/1951 camera/lens combination). Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 6 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2775073'>More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3466 Posted March 5, 2015 1. The usual rangefinding focusing, which isn't easy with subjects walking towards or away from me: there it is... oh no, hang on, erm, yes, erm no. Click! Oh dammit...Ric Been there, done that, got lots of t-shirts... Very good write-up of learning the craft, Ric. Not sure what reading material you have but I have found 'Street Photography Now' (Sophie Howarth & Stephen McLaren; Thames & Hudson) and chapter 4 "The Street - Discord & Harmony" in 'Photography Today' (Mark Durdon, Phaidon) to be excellent sources of information on the subject. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3467 Posted March 5, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Very interesting review.Thank you Ric, you're rather to use the 50mm, rather than the 28 too close For digital and for a picture in normal light conditions, it could still go but in contre-jour in the street Photo , everything will be under exposed, ie in the dark without shadow details . This is the film that will better reveal the difference with superior dynamics. So goes for the 50 mm Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3468 Posted March 5, 2015 Macro Photo with Macro Elmar 90 Spring seems coming Cherry blossom in contre jour Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Fuji Sup.100 Prof. M7 90ME Best Henry 4 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Fuji Sup.100 Prof. M7 90ME Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2775110'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3469 Posted March 5, 2015 Gorgeous light and sense of space. I love this picture Henry! Regards Charles Charles thanks for your nice comment Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3470 Posted March 5, 2015 In a way I prefer subjects that have an implied movement/energy but actually stand still! IIIg, 5cm Summciron Collapsible, Tri-X, Rodinal. (Not bad for a 1957/1951 camera/lens combination). High definition picture and nice composition Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3471 Posted March 5, 2015 Very interesting review.Thank you Ric, you're rather to use the 50mm, rather than the 28 too close For digital and for a picture in normal light conditions, it could still go but in contre-jour in the street Photo , everything will be under exposed, ie in the dark without shadow details . This is the film that will better reveal the difference with superior dynamics. So goes for the 50 mm Best Henry Indeed, 50mm and b&w film. :-) Ric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3472 Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Regarding Henry's earlier question on camera setup for street photography: I wrote a loooong post on my iPhone yesterday, only to lose every word when Tapatalk gave me the pleasure of yet another crash. So here I go again: I'm a learning street photographer, so take everything with a pinch of salt. I invariably use the Summicron 50mm because (a) I'm trying to get very comfortable with the 50mm field of view, having been brought up on 28mm point 'n' shoots throughout my film and digital eras (I've just turned 50 years) and ( it's a good 5-10 metres away from the subject, as opposed to the 2-4m of a 28mm. Oh, and I do have a 28mm Elmarit, but I'm now a bit puzzled as what I should do with it, as it's too wide for my style of streets, and too narrow for where I want to go with landscapes. (We shall see, but I think a 40mm Hasselblad Xpan is later calling to me for landscapes). But for me 50mm is close enough to capture both subject and surrounding context without telephoto creepyness, but far enough away not to upset the locals - the Swiss being shy creatures, easily startled ("the camera is stealing my soul. Arrgghhh!") I load up with ISO 400 XP2 and set to f8, and let the M6's metering tell me the shutter speed. The 1/1000 speed limit is plenty for a European winter, (although I've been playing with a three stop ND filter on bright, snowy days, although not much "street" up on a ski resort!). Occasionally, a sunny day has pushed me to f11 or more, but f8 is usually plenty. And f8 and 1/125 (ISO 400) is almost always spot on for overcast days, as many people here already know. Camera shake occasionally trips me up, but to be honest getting a little motion blur into the shot is always fun so I'm often on the edge of what's hand holdable - which is why I start snapping at f8 and then drop down even as far as f16 later on. Handheld at 1/30 seems to work, and when warmer weather comes I'm going to see if sitting on a bench can let me play down to 1/15 or even 1/8. I see wonderful motion blur pictures on Flickr with a stationary subject in focus and passersby streaking across the image: but when I check out the exifs on the digital snaps, I see 1/4s or 1/2s. I don't know where I'd start handholding down to such speeds, so I'm guessing they're using tripods and remote shutter release. Seems a bit... cheating... to use a tripod and remote release for street photography. But ok, I'll try it sometime. Focusing is the thing and I continue to play with three alternatives: 1. The usual rangefinding focusing, which isn't easy with subjects walking towards or away from me: there it is... oh no, hang on, erm, yes, erm no. Click! Oh dammit... 2. Then there's the digital-style "zone focusing" where I focus on something around the same distance as to where I aim to capture the walking subject, and then click the shutter when he or she enters the area - this works, but as the "something" is invariably the ground or lamppost or something else unphotographable, I feel a bit daft, to be honest. But yes, it works quite well. 9 out of 10 are nicely focused (and 8 of the remaining 9 are still terrible compositions of uninteresting subjects). 3. Lastly, I've recently started setting the focusing range on the Summicron so that the aperture marker is set to the infinity mark as per book for landscape photography, and simply leave it there. F8 already gives a huge depth of field, and the early experiments show that this approach works. The depth of field scale on the Summicron 50mm isn't the best because the markings are very compressed (owners can have a quick look and confirm) so I don't get that feeling that the infinity mark is *exactly* on the f8. But a couple of reels of 35mm has shown me that it's close enough, and focusing is no longer an issue. Phew. Shall probably continue to focus this way, and concentrate on learning to handhold at low shutter speeds. Everyone here knows that I'm only six months or so into my so called return to film, although the truth is that whilst I'm old enough to have owned 2-3 film cameras before the digital revolution, they were point 'n' shoots with the simplest indoors/outdoors and person/mountains settings. So I continue to learn the balance between aperture and shutter speed (thank god for metering, but already I'm second guessing quite well) and of course ISO, although XP2 leaves that nice and constant. HCB said that your first 10,000 snaps are the worst, and with about 9,700 to go I hope he's right. All the blah blah blah above is all about the basics, and the real world experience of focusing walking subjects at the right depth of field with a handheld camera. I hope that one day all that'll be second nature, and then my editing can concentrate on deleting poor compositions, with badly exposed, shakey or plain out of focus pictures being few and far between. Ric If you like street shots with motion blur you will love Alexy Titerenko http://www.alexeytitarenko.com/port_cityshadows.html Edited March 5, 2015 by gsgary 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atufte Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3473 Posted March 5, 2015 Louis Vuitton Paris - Leica MP/TX400 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 10 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2775144'>More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3474 Posted March 5, 2015 If you like street shots with motion blur you will love Alexy Titerenko http://www.alexeytitarenko.com/port_cityshadows.html I do love Titerenko's work, having seen it on the wonderful Art of Photography Youtube channel. *That* level of blur is beyond me, of course. :-) Ric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3475 Posted March 5, 2015 Louis Vuitton Paris - Leica MP/TX400 Alex well captured the "nomophobia" Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3476 Posted March 5, 2015 In a way I prefer subjects that have an implied movement/energy but actually stand still! Maybe I should buy a gun? :-) Ric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3477 Posted March 5, 2015 I do love Titerenko's work, having seen it on the wonderful Art of Photography Youtube channel. *That* level of blur is beyond me, of course. :-) Ric If you watch some of his video's it looks like he picks up the tripod before exposure has finished and moves the camera in a circular motion Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3478 Posted March 5, 2015 For Keith Ilford HP5 MP Apo Telyt 135 Asph In our church XII th century Gothic style Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry 7 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2775186'>More sharing options...
horosu Posted March 5, 2015 Share #3479 Posted March 5, 2015 Kodal TriX, Rodinal Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 11 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2775193'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share #3480 Posted March 5, 2015 Street photo with 28 mm Not great, I am not satisfied but I nevertheless post the photo Student behind the lady (which is thoughtful) with glasses saw me Thanks for your opinion which will be catastrophic ? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Kodak Portra 400 M7 28 Summicron Asph Henry 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Kodak Portra 400 M7 28 Summicron Asph Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2775218'>More sharing options...
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