Leica M2 repair question

[Rik]

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Hi, i have bought a rough M2, with the shutter and film advance lever stuck. I have taken it apart and fixed the jam, it appeared there was some felt strip stuck in the brake assembly wheels. So now it winds and fires. But...the film advance lever does not return to its starting position by itself. It is sort of loose, i need to bring it back myself and can then release the shutter. Can anyone point me to where this problem may stem from? I have both the M2 repair guides (basic and military) but the military one does not list this as a 'problem'. And i know i should send it in to a specialist, but i'm stubborn and want to do it myself. After i have fixed this mechanical issue i will also paint it (maybe black..) and recover it. For me this is just a fun project to work on, and given the fact i paid very little for the camera, i have nothing to lose. thanks for your help. Rik, The Netherlands

[gvaliquette]

Hey, this sounds like FUN!

 

I think I will be following this thread.

 

Hope to read some updates soon.

 

Guy

[doubice]

Hello Rik,

 

I would suggest that you post your question to the Classic Camera Repair Forum. It is a forum full of knowledgable "do-it-yourselfers" and I am sure you will get plenty of advice. Here is the link:

 

The Classic Camera Repair Forum: Maintenance & Repair

 

The forum is a little difficult to navigate - you'll have to scroll all the way down on the page to start a new thread. Or, you can search the forum for posts with a similar problem.

 

Good luck!

 

Jan

[Johannes Knightworth]

Hi Rik,

 

sounds like fun to me too. I hope you will update the thread according to you progress...

[Rik]

thanks guys

yes it is fun, although not easy fun. But i'll get there. Good thing about the M2 its all mechanical, so no problems with electricity... :-)

 

i'll post some pictures when i'm done, which may take some weeks...

 

if anyone has some good tips about repainting, those are obviously welcome. Especially with products available in Europe, i'm in the Netherlands

[doubice]

if anyone has some good tips about repainting, those are obviously welcome. Especially with products available in Europe, i'm in the Netherlands

 

Rik,

 

Repainting is very tricky, if you want to do a good and relatively permanent job. Leica bodies are first nickel plated, than chrome plated. In order for the paint to stick, all plating has to be removed first, down to bare brass. This is best done by a competent plating shop, which also has chrome and nickel stripping facilities - this is a chemical/electrolytic process, best left to professionals.

 

Once the body parts are stripped, they have to be meticulously cleaned to remove any grease - even fingerprints should be removed. Than, apply primer in thin, multiple coats. Always wait for the previous coat to be dry, before applying another coat.

 

The last step is painting the camera the colour of your choice and I assume that you would want black. You can use automotive non-metallic spray enamel or, if available, black kitchen appliance paint.

 

Again - it is very important that you proceed slowly, applying multiple thin coats. Dust can be a problem and you can use wet sand paper between coats for very fine sanding. The last step is baking the paint. Once again, slow and low heat baking is best - can be done in an oven.

 

Needless to say - the body parts have to be completely stripped of all pieces that are not to be painted or which could be damaged when stripping and baking.

 

Like I said - it is tricky.... If done well though, very rewarding. I have not done a Leica body, but many years ago I re-finished a Pentax Spotmatic. It turned out quite well and once the paint started wearing on the edges, the camera had a beautiful patina.

 

Good luck and post your results!

 

All the best,

 

Jan

[doubice]

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I forgot to add - you will also have to fill-in all the engraving! There are special paint stick available for just that purpose or, you can use railway modeller's water based glossy white paint.

 

Make sure that the painted camera is completely dry; this will take up to 3 - 5 days (yes, days!). Than - use a thin brush to apply the paint into the engraving and before it dries, wipe of the excess leaving only the paint in the engraving. The reason for using water based paint is that it wipes off easier and can be washed of the body with water before it is completely dry.

 

Once the paint in the engraving dries, it is quite permanent.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

[luigi bertolotti]

Rik, just a question (from a passionate Leica lover that anyway has NEVER put directly his hands on Leica mechanics) : have you the COMPLETE part list (with designs) of the various subassemblies ? Are you sure that some small part is not missing ? It SEEMS to me to remember , in a photo I have that illustrates the whole parts of M4 (not M2) that the wind lever assembly includes a small spring, that I suppose to be for rapid return to normal position after winding. I do not know is this can help you into your remarkable effort, but is the only thing that came into my mind thinking of M series mechanism...good luck, anyway: and more luck even for the painting... reading the above messages on the subject personally I would be not so comforted...

[stumac]

Fully agree with Jan's comments having repainted instrument panels and cases for many years. Do not try to use pressure pack paints, it is extremely difficult to get a finish a Leica deserves.

 

Regards, Stuart

[Rik]

Hi guys,

 

Jan - thanks for the lengthy and excellent painting tips. I will bear them in mind.

 

Luigi - yes i have all the parts, i took them out myself.. :-)

 

When the thing is done i will put up some pictures and text about what and how i did it. So far its really fun. I have not done this before, but it is a great experience. All the people saying you should not touch a Leica yourself, why not? If everything fails i can still send it in to a local repair guy here who will fix it. So all i will have lost is some time having fun. As long as you're careful not to lose any parts or brake or bend them, whats the big issue?

 

thanks again for the tips.

[jhild]

Hi Rik,

 

take the top cover off again and have a close look to the wind on mechanics just below

the lever.There is a quite large spring all around it, it´s the one that brings the lever back.

If this spring is broken(very unlikely) or has come loose(more likely) it has to be fixed .

It is also possible to lift that whole wind on plus film counter gear from the camera, clean

and lubricate it.

I have that M2 military repairbook as well and think it`s pretty useless. Tomosy´s books

plus a reprint of the original M3 factory book is much better, apart from the rangefinder

the M4 or M2 and all the other M´s are very similar to the M3.

 

Good luck

 

Jo

[Rik]

hi Joachim

thanks for the info. The large spring is indeed loose, so that must be the problem. I cannot see however where it must attach. Is that possible to explain?

I have tried to take off that whole assembly, but when i take out the three screws, its still stuck somewhee, or should i just pull harder?

thanks for the tips on manuals, any idea s where to get the M3 manual?

[luigi bertolotti]

...this come from my heart...WAIT TO "PULL HARDER" !

[jhild]

Hi Rik,

 

I don´t know whether this is your first Leica to work on so be careful, don´t force anything.

I suggest you fix those three screws again and have a very close look to the winding gear.

First look from the back(film) side.There are two gears running around vertical axles, just

between the axles there is a small pin where the big spring should be hooked on.If you wind on and look to the winding gear from the front(lens) side you should see the big spring hooked into a small hole in the clutch housing.

 

If the pin is broken you are in deep shit because this is a job for professional repair only.

If the spring has come off the clutch housing you should still be able to see the end of it

bent like a hook. The problem is to get it back because there needs to be some tension

and you might have to make a special tool by yourself to get the spring back in it´s usual

place.

If you have /want to take the whole wind on gear off you should know it´s not easy to get

it back in the right position.There is a feeler arm reaching under the clutch housing, that

is why you can´t just take it off, you have to wiggle a bit and eventually it will all come off.

The pin under the release knob will also come out, it is connected to the bottom of the camera by some kind of long pin.

And, most important, when you pull the wind on gear you definitely disalign the wind on/

film spool connection and getting it back again is a very painful "try and error" exercise,

I have done it a couple of times. I think before you touch all this you should work and watch the whole thing very careful.

Thomasa Tomosy´s Leica Repair book is available from book stores and I believe it´s the

most important basic book to read before you start working on any Leica.

Camera Manuals - Owner and Service Manuals is a good source for reprints of camera repair books but only

if you already have some basic knowledge(Tomosy).He has all kinds of Leica repair

books but the most useful thing on that are the drawings and only some of the text.

I think before you touch your M2 again you should read first!

 

Good luck

 

Jo