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Tri Elmar 28-35-50/4.0 Asph on M8, is worth it?


castelletta

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I was with Brucek last week shooting in Savannah. I was shooting primarily with my 35 cron and he had the tri. I always wanted to up or down one lens size but didn't have the glass... he kept going with the tri... mine is on order!

 

Mike

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Although I haven't yet bought the M8, I've had the TE for a couple years, and it is by far my most-used lens.

 

On the M8, the lens behaves rather like a 37-47-67, of course, so basically there it still maintains two of the three focal lengths I'm used to on the M6: both 35 and 50.

 

I say it is definitely worth it.

 

--HC

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I'm almost convinced. Still remain some doubt about how well the 28 handles the architectural structures and lines. I really hate distorted lines (barrel distortions)....

 

 

Barrel distortions are unknown to Leica ASPH lenses....as opposed to geometrical ''distortion'' which is maths/physics and therefore unavoidable the moment the camera is tilted !

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True XJR but I'm a little concerned about what Erwin Puts states at page 54 of the mentioned Leica publication found here http://www.leica-camera.us/assets/file/download.php?filename=file_107.pdf

 

It says "Leica states that the 50 position of the Tri-Elmar-M gives the best performance, and a slightly lower performance at the 28 setting. Indeed distortion is a bit greater than it is at the 35 and 50 settings. When photographing flat objects like walls, some barrel distortion is clearly noticeable. When picturing architectural objects with depth, this effect mostly vanishes."

 

..it says mostly....so I still need an example to evaluate...do you took pictures of some buildings or walls indoor or outdoor, at exhibitions or so? It would be helpful for me to evaluate.

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Barrel distortions are unknown to Leica ASPH lenses...

 

Sorry, you're wrong at least as far as the Tri-Elmar at 28mm is concerned.

 

Plus my Tri-Elmar has been back to Leica on at least 3 occasions due to the aperture ring losing its indents.

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...doing homework :)

 

The last concern is the maximum aperture of 1:4. It's not going to be a serious problem to always stick to this limit?

 

Roberto,

 

Why not take your M8 and existing lens and just use it in a variety of situations at f4 or smaller for a while- that will tell you if its suited to your style. I have the Tri elmar on the M8 often and think its an essential part of my kit.

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As for speed, what do you shoot? You'll have to decide whether f/4 is fast enough. Remember, Leica is better than most manufacturers about being able to shoot their lenses wide open.

 

I doubt that any lens ever made lacks distortion.

 

Take a look at the TE brochure if you're curious about its distortion. It has negligible distortion at 50 and 35. Here are the diagrams for its distortion performance at 28.

 

Remember, the M8 sensor is 18 x 24 mm. So look at the 'effective distortion' plot at the point x=12, y=9. That's the corner on the M8.

 

--HC

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I'm almost convinced. Still remain some doubt about how well the 28 handles the architectural structures and lines. I really hate distorted lines (barrel distortions)....

 

It would be helpful some architectural example pictures. Thanks

 

The TE shows some 3% barrel distortion at 28 mm. That is very definitely noticeable. (The new Wide Angle Tri-Elmar is just the same.)

 

If you have never worked with M-type Leicas or rangefinder cameras in general, the first thing to learn is to work with one focal length. Experienced photogs mount maybe a 28, and subconsciously they also put on '28 mm eyes'. They see that 28 mm picture before they even raise the camera to their eyes. This is the recipe for fast work, and is easier to learn than you think. Just go out with one single prime lens! It is an education. With experience you will also learn which lens is appropriate for which situation, and for your kind of seing. The frame preview lever is a great learning tool. Beginning with a zoom, even a TE, will mean that you will forever stand fiddling with the zoom ring, instead of taking pictures.

 

Either a 35 mm ('long normal') or 28 ('short normal') are good starting lenses. In the days of the M2, some folks travelled around the world with a 35 and a 90; our equivalents would be 28 and 75 mm. Henri Cartier-Bresson travelled around the globe with a 50 mm Summicron! If forced to do the Grand Tour with one lens, I would unhesitatingly chose the 35 Summilux ASPH.

 

The old man from the Age of the M2

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