Film development equipment help

[harmsr]

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Ok guys - help me with your expertise on tabletop development equipment.

 

I am tired of dealing with "Pro" labs that do not provide consistent development of the film or scratched negatives. (both C41 / B&W) B&W is the worst. I can't get consistent development from either of the two "Pro" labs here in Phoenix.

 

I have been able to find the Jobo CPP-2, ATL-1500, and PhotoTherm Super Sidekick.

 

I probably only shoot about 10-15 rolls of film a month, with the remainder now being digital. They are an unpredictable mix of Portra 160 NC, Portra 400 VC, BW400CN, Tri-X, TMax, XP-2 Super.

 

I would probably prefer one of the two automated machines, just due to laziness and "probably"?? improved consistency.

 

Do any of these units have big advangtages or disadvantges compared to the others.

 

Any help or advise on selecting something would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Ray

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[erl]

Ray,

 

I have used the JOBO ATL 1500 for 5 or 6 years. It is a fabulous machine and absolutely consistent in it's results. Still working faultlessly, but digital has nearly sidlined it, unfortunately. It will be more expensive than the other model, but well worth it for the automation.

 

Chemistry for colour film will be your biggest problem. The Agfa packs were brilliant and surpassed everything for processing IMHO. Regrettably not made anymore to my knowledge. I am toying with the Fuji chemistry which I thinl is really Tetenal. That is probably the best option on offer at present. I need to do more resarch. Scrupulous technique for keeping chemicals from contaminating each other when mixing is important.

 

B&W is a breeze in this machine, again, consistency is the great virtue.

 

You will NEVER scratch a film in this machine.

[santila]

JOBO ATL1500 is the way to go. You can buy it reasonable on e-bay since folks going digital.

Best bet for chemistry is Kodak 5 litre kit. Tetenal is good, comes in 1 liter kit but it is expensive ($40.-)

 

I did used Photocolor Chrome Six in the past but it was also discontinued.

 

Fill the Jobo processor with 110° F plus water prior processing and let it stand for about 15 minutes. Meantime mix chemistry as recommended around 87° F, drain processor, fill bottles, adjust water temperature for 97° F for E-6.

Chemistry is one shot, rinse pales between mixes. Be careful with Stabilizer, not mixing with chemistry used pales.

 

All E-6 films processed at standard time, except Fuji Velvia, Provia where add +20% time.

[stunsworth]

With 10 - 15 films a month and a mix of b&w, colour negative and reversal, your biggest peoblem is going to keep the chemistry fresh - in particular the colour. If you buy a 5 litre colour reversal pack, and only process 5 films a month, you'll end up throwing a lot of the chemistry away if you're not careful.

 

Colour chemistry doesn't keep very long once opened - off the top of my head I think it 3 weeks, but I'm sure someone can give you the correct figure.

[rolfe_tessem]

I would second the recommendation of the ATL-1500 or ATL-1000, which is basically the same machine. It does require a tempered water supply, although the temperture is not *that* critical since the machine itself heats the actual water bath. The tempered supply is used for preheating and for the rinse washes.

 

Also, I believe that the life of the Kodak 6 bath E-6 kit is way longer than Steve implies. I don't have the docs at hand, but I think Kodak rates the unmixed chemistry at a year and the mixed chemistry for something really long, like six months.

 

That is my experience anyway, so I would have no hesitation about using this combo at your usage rate.

 

I used to use only Tetenal chemistry in my ATL-1000, but for some reason their E-6 5 liter kit got really expensive, so I now use the Kodak 5 liter kit for E-6 but I still use the Tetenal 5 liter kit for C-41.

 

This machine will give you conisistent negs and trannys and, if dried in a dust free environment, will be easy to scan as well.

[fuchs]

After having used a CPP2 for a number of years, I recently had the opportunity of buying a friend's ATL1000. This is *really* the way to go. Very consistent results, low chemical usage, eay operation.

Best,

 

Ed

[harmsr]

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Thanks for the recommendations guys. I thought that I could find a 1500 but have only found a 1000. I did just place a bid on a used 1000. Hopefully, I will win it.

 

Ray

[rolfe_tessem]

The main difference between the ATL-1000 and ATL-1500 is that with the latter unit you can customize the programs somewhat more. The ATL-1000 has everything you are likely to need -- E6 3 bath, E6 6 bath, C41 3 bath, C41 2 bath, including push 1 programs and a bunch mroe. The only thing you can't do with the 1000 is program some arbitrary time for a program, which you aren't likely to need to do anyway.