Post Processing Monochrom

[bormov]

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I downloaded a DNG Monochrom file. I've read the amount of information it has is impressive, so I was excited to play in PS. Much to my disappointment, I realized I have no clue how to control these pictures. Am I alone in this?

 

I ended up browsing online for black and white post processing, but I've only found info on transforming from color to black and white. Not only that, I also realized how bad the tutorials are. The black and white pictures they have are nowhere near the Monochrom pictures in terms of quality. Which led me to ponder on what makes a good black and white. I kinda know the answer just by seeing good B&W next to bad ones. But how does one achieve such effect (disregarding composition, just in terms of tonality, contrast, etc)? I am thinking that using PS with the DNG file should be enough, but this is just intuition talking.

 

I am still browsing, but any info would be appreciated. Perhaps someone knows of good tutorials, personal experience, or articles.

 

Thanks!

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[erlingmm]

I recommend Ming Thein's DVD on post-processing the Leica M Monochrome images. He works in Photoshop, but it is fairly easy to "translate" this into Lightroom:

New: Photoshop Workflow DVD for the Leica M Monochrom! – Ming Thein | Photographer

[erlingmm]

...the video can also be bought directly from his iPad App, released just a few days ago.

[Jager]

Well, first there is no single answer as to how a black and white image should look. Questions of tonality, contrast, etc., are necessarily dependent upon scene conditions and what the photographer's intent, vision, and style are.

 

That said, post processing of MM images need not be difficult or involved. I typically will spend eight or ten seconds on each image. A bit more as the selects narrow down. Here are a few quick tips (all assuming you're in the 'Develop' module of Lightroom):

 

- The MM exposure bias is towards underexposure. So first examine your image for that. In many images you'll want to pull the exposure slider up a bit.

 

- Tweak the contrast slider. On high contrast scenes dial it back. On low contrast images dial it up. Don't overdo it.

 

- Look at your image and then at your histogram. You'll probably need to bring the blacks up by sliding the slider to the left. Watch your clipping, but don't be afraid to get your darks all the way to the left of your histogram. Setting your black point is probably the most important post processing step, the correction to the "flat" images the MM is famous for.

 

- Whites tend to not need the same amount of correction as blacks (oftentimes none), but likewise do the same thing for them.

 

- If your scene is very contrasty, with lots of specular highlights, you'll probably want to dial down the highlights.

 

- Likewise, if your scene is very contrasty, with lots of buried shadows, you'll probably want to dial up the shadows.

 

- Add just a bit of clarity, if you like. Don't overdo it.

 

That's it for a basic PP on MM images. Only takes a few seconds per image.

[jaapv]

There is no "best" imo. It is a matter of taste and of the look you want to achieve.

Jager is spot-on in his advice. Additionally I usually hit "Auto" in levels, "linear contrast" in curves and tweak the curve with the "finger tool"

 

Smart Sharpen used in moderation will bring out the last details.

 

If resizing for web use, use simple Bicubic.