otto.f Posted November 11, 2012 Share #61 Posted November 11, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thank you Doppel! I'm looking forward to your feedback. Until then I'll stick to my trial and error method which works reasonably well with 2 or 3 prints on 10*15cm. I use EyeOne hard- and software for calibration in a pretty dim-lit working environment. The latter seems quite relevant to me with respect to the brightness-setting you get when calibrating Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 11, 2012 Posted November 11, 2012 Hi otto.f, Take a look here iMAC and epson 3880 print adjustment. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jeff S Posted November 11, 2012 Share #62 Posted November 11, 2012 I only adjust using LR, it is LR that insists you set, within the LR menu "managed by printer" otherwise ABW mode is not accessible. Otto is telling you to ignore ABW for your own control...as did I. LR works just fine without it. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWC Doppel Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share #63 Posted November 12, 2012 So far I have had better results with ABW than using icc's, I am still learning. Others including Eric Chan do highlight the increase in D-Max using ABW. I am still learning guys, I am only printing B&W and I have achieved better results to my eyes using ABW on cold press natural than the factory icc with similar settings. I will feedback from the epson course Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted November 12, 2012 Share #64 Posted November 12, 2012 ABW versus factory icc?...not surprising. High D-max on matte paper?...perhaps not the best paper choice. There are some beautiful baryta semi-gloss papers available. I think I'm repeating myself, so I'll move on as you begin to work through the process. Enjoy. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted November 12, 2012 Share #65 Posted November 12, 2012 One quick addendum regarding your concern about D-max. LR 4 sliders...exposure, contrast, shadow, black and clarity, for instance...should provide you with a wide array of tonal options. Coupled with paper choice, variations are endless, without necessarily considering ABW. This LuLa article should prove informative. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWC Doppel Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share #66 Posted November 12, 2012 Interesting regarding the point curve, I usually start with exposure then blacks, whites, shadows and highlights then rotate with these as I adjust contrast/tone curve. I have never tried moving the end point on the tone curve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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