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Don't use a IR filter, the IR light that the sensor captures makes weird colours in colours pictures, but enlarges the dynamic range when capturing DNG images and converting them to B&W.

 

I do use B+W UV haze filters on my lenses. And for B&W PostProcessing I use Silver Efex and VSCO ( VSCO Film | Visual Supply Co )

 

The main software suite I use is Aperture 3, and for some things Photoshop.

 

The M8 is really capable of taking great B&W's!

 

If you want, you can take a look at some things I've got out of a M8, in B&W on my 500px page: 500px / Jip van Kuijk / Photos

 

I usually set the camera to DNG+JPEG with the JPEG setting on B&W so I can chimp at my pictures and see what they look like in B&W right on the camera. Later on I only import the DNG files and make them B&W in the computer.

 

Let me know if you want to know any specifics! :)

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Don't use a IR filter' date=' the IR light that the sensor captures makes weird colours in colours pictures, but enlarges the dynamic range when capturing DNG images and converting them to B&W.

 

I do use B+W UV haze filters on my lenses. And for B&W PostProcessing I use Silver Efex and VSCO ( VSCO Film | Visual Supply Co )

 

The main software suite I use is Aperture 3, and for some things Photoshop.

 

The M8 is really capable of taking great B&W's!

 

If you want, you can take a look at some things I've got out of a M8, in B&W on my 500px page: 500px / Jip van Kuijk / Photos

 

I usually set the camera to DNG+JPEG with the JPEG setting on B&W so I can chimp at my pictures and see what they look like in B&W right on the camera. Later on I only import the DNG files and make them B&W in the computer.

 

Let me know if you want to know any specifics! :)

 

I use the same setting and software with great result

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Try removing the UV/IR filter and substituting a 2x yellow filter, I have found this to be effective.

By the way Ihave always been intrigued by your user name, I am aware of the gaelic

poem, you chase photo images with an M8 while he chases mice. Nice modern twist.

Doug.

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Definitely remove the UV/IR cut filter. A processing alternative is to use Channel Mixer in Photoshop. It is the old way of doing B&W in Photoshop and still gives maximum control. In this case no other filter would be used.

 

Others process B&W in the Lab color space instead of RGB. I never mastered it.

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You're in luck! As everyone else has said here, without the IR filter an M8 makes fabulous monochrome shots. In fact, if I had a choice, I'd personally shoot an M8 over the MM :)

 

Personally, too, I vote for C1's control over monochrome conversion. It's a channel mixer, but combined with C1's other controls (including layer controls) it's superb!

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Put the money you don't spend on the M9 or MM and invest in the other tools needed to make great b/w prints....monitor, calibration and editing software, printer, papers, inks, custom profiles and such...and invest even more of your time and effort learning how to coordinate and optimize these tools.

 

I use M8.2s as a starting point for my b/w shots (which are really nice even with the UV/IR filter in place, despite other comments here), and prefer the somewhat crisper files to the M9 for b/w. But I think there's more to be gained on the back end of the workflow than in the difference between 2 pretty darn good cameras already on the front end. (The MM perhaps might be another story in terms of extremely high ISO shots, but those are not my mode.)

 

I've gone back and revised some prints that I thought were already very good to start, by using later versions of LR, better papers, better profiles, different settings, etc, and continually found ways to incrementally improve the results.

 

Of course none of this matters if you don't first get a good pic to start. So I'm assuming that you know the importance of learning to 'see in b/w' and determining how to use your camera to good effect...composition, lighting, exposure and all that. The M8 should become second nature. (Forgive the obvious if you are an experienced b/w photographer.)

 

Jeff

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Something I'd like to try on the M8 and you may wish to consider is doing infra-red photographs with it. A quick search here will lead to several posts on the subject.

I endorse Chris' statement. I am new to IR with the M8, but first results are extremely convincing. Focusing is the big challenge because IR wavelengths focus differently to visible rays. By trial and error I have settled on using the f/8 mark on the DOF scale as the setting for infinity. With the lens stopped down, quite acceptable results are possible. I will try and post an example later this weekend.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The M8 without UV/IR Filter is great for B&W. I recently posted "Golden Gate Bridge" in the Travel and Landscape photo section taken with this set-up. I use M8 for all my B&W and M9 for colour.

 

Try it, digital images don't cost anything.

___________________

Regards, Tom

 

 

 

Photography by Tom Lane

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8096068599_464c930871_o.jpg

Automne NB by careca2013, on Flickr

 

I usually keep the UV-IR filter on, always shoot DNG exposing for the best DR, start processing in LR4 then Camera Raw 7 and do the B&W conversion in Silver Efex 2 . Low contrast lenses for extra spices to the recipe !

Cheers, JM.

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To back up a bit and likely overstate the obvious, for optimal B&W with the M8, conversion is optimally done in post processing and not in the camera? Please restate appropriate settings for capture with the intent of subsequent B&W images. Thanks

 

Yes, post processing DNG-files (RAW).

 

Tore

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