Finally, Leica time!

[Willy Fog]

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Welcome to the forum!

 

Thank you very much

 

My very first Leica has been a M6 classic (I got lucky and found a very late sample, manufactured in 1996). This camera is not only looking as new, but absolutely reliable so far.

 

But looks difficult to find a M6 like you find

 

I strongly prefer the M6 classic over the slightly larger M6TTL, as I also prefer the smaller shutter speed dial and the slightly different meter (mine has the two glowing arrows meter instead of the later three LED meter, which added a dot in the center and removed the beautiful arrow glow).

 

I think at the beginning will be more easy with the dot. The problem is, that I didn't try the Leica M6, so I don't know how bright an easy will be to work with the arrows. Maybe is more than enough. Yesterday I was looking in ebay, looks like is more easy to find a M6 than a M6TTL, but I don't know how easy will be to find one of the latest M6

 

I am in Shanghai and can state, that it would be very hard, to find a nice looking M6 + a fairly fast 35mm lens within your budget at the moment (exchange rate not really helping the matter).

 

Where exactly in Shanghai? I expend around 5 years in Shanghai working. I'm going back to Shanghai on 25th of this month and leaving on 1st. Later I'll be back on 20th till the end of the year. I know that to buy now in Shanghai is very hard. I remember my first year in Shanghai, 1€=10,6rmb, I bought my Canon an a few lens for a very good price, but now looks impossible 1€=7,82rmb

 

There are plenty of shops in Shanghai, where you can buy the gear, but generally one should know, what to look for and be confident in checking the gear out on the spot.

 

Sometimes in Shanghai, let's say China in general, you should be very good on the stuff you are buying, cause is plenty of ''fake'' things. I don't know where I should be the camera. Maybe here in the forum, but I should be sure that the seller is 100% trustworthy

 

Given your general restrictions (1500 EUR and unfortunately not yet decided on preferable focal lengths), I would outline this:

 

Well, if we go up till 1800€uros, nothing will happend, but I prefer 1500€.

 

- late SN Leica M6 classic

 

How easy will be to find an old M6? All the M6 I saw in ebay they didn't say the year.

 

- Canon 35 f2 LTM (it is often referred to as "Japanese Summicron")

 

I thin that my brother-in-law have one, but not sure

 

- Voigtlander LTM-M adapter 35/135 (or an original Leica adapter, but these are selling more expensive recently)

 

My choice would not be the 35/1.4 Voigtlander as a first lens (personal preference).

 

another very nice lens within 250 − 400 EUR is also:

- Leica 35 mm Summaron f3.5 LTM

 

The only problem that is 3.5, right?

 

If you could find interest for a 50mm lens, to start with your M6, the choices are much bigger within the budget.

 

Here I go with another af my stupid questions, a 50mm lens, will be a real 50mm, right? I mean, if I use a 50mm in my Nex7 will be 50x1.5= 75mm

 

If constrained to a budget this small, I would either rethink, to look for a nice, freshly overhauled Leica M4 and pair it with a lens of preference or would tend to buy second hand from reputable sellers on one of the forums.

 

No, I prefer the M6 or M6ttl, the most important for me is the meter. If I have no meter, and I should carry one (maybe my Iphone) maybe I will start to leave the camera at home. I prefer to learn with all in one Leica, as soon as I learned everything or maybe the ruole of Sunny 16, then the meter will be not important anymore for me.

 

If you are in Shanghai, PM me ;-)

 

I'll be in Shanghai from 25th to 1st

 

Thank you very much for your message for of information and ideas.

 

Regards

[Willy Fog]

Very nice photos Dirk

 

going after business

 

Regards

[Willy Fog]

Ok, after more time in the forum and searching in Google, I decided that the lens should be 50mm, why:

 

1- I have more choices for better prices, like Dirk told me.

 

2- Only for one lens, will be much better to have a 50 mm and maybe in the future buy a 28mm.

 

So, we are close to the final decision.

 

M6 or M6TTL and 50mm lens.

 

Thank you for your time and help!

[menos I M6]

I'll be in Shanghai from 25th to 1st

 

Thank you very much for your message for of information and ideas.

 

Regards

 

"But looks difficult to find a M6 like you find "

You basically just look after the serial no. and check the production year.

There is a nice PDF file from Erwin Puts, called "Leica Pocket guide" with an extensive part, covering serial no.

 

"Sometimes in Shanghai, let's say China in general, you should be very good on the stuff you are buying, cause is plenty of ''fake'' things. I don't know where I should be the camera. Maybe here in the forum, but I should be sure that the seller is 100% trustworthy"

There are no known "fakes" of Leica M standard bodies, like a M6, but it sure is mandatory, to know your way around, checking the item properly before buying.

 

It is a practice indeed with collectible or very highly priced vintage rangefinder gear, that items are forged, including change of serial numbers, repaints and engravings.

This is nasty stuff, that likely will not impact you on your journey to a nice standard Leica M6.

 

Maybe it's easier, to find a nice body in Europe these days from a reputable dealer with warranty.

I think, a nice, complete late M6 with full packaging and warranty will run you less in Europe, than an unknown body only from a dealer in Shanghai.

There is one member here, who described his luck in finding actually a brand new in box Leica M6 old stock for a screaming bargain under full warranty - I think, it was Jaap.

 

- Canon 35 f2 LTM (it is often referred to as "Japanese Summicron")

 

"I thin that my brother-in-law have one, but not sure"

If you have a chance of trying this lens, to make up your mind, do it!

It's a a truly beautiful lens - light, very compact, very sharp and beautifully rendering.

 

Leica 35 mm Summaron f3.5 LTM

"The only problem that is 3.5, right?"

Yes, but with pushed TriX you can even shoot with it in the night. A faster 35mm is of course more versatile.

 

"Here I go with another af my stupid questions, a 50mm lens, will be a real 50mm, right? I mean, if I use a 50mm in my Nex7 will be 50x1.5= 75mm"

Not stupid at all - and yes, that's correct.

[Willy Fog]

Thank you for your message Dirk.

 

Ok then, I will try to find this PDF file and check the serial numbers for a M6.

 

And yes, I think will be much better to buy it in Europe. I will keep an eye to the prices here in the forum. Do you mind if in the future I'll ask you for help?

 

I'm not a professional or a trained eye. I can check two different lens with some differences, but maybe I will not find any. So that's why, I prefer to ask for help and now which lens should I buy to keep it forever In the future I'll buy more lens, but first I should make many photos and start to understand the photography better and better.

 

I will try to find some information about the pushed TriX:D I have no idea about this.

 

So, if 50mm is a real 50mm in a Lieca M6, then I'll go for a 50mm. More options and more easy to find something.

 

Here one more question. If I put a 50mm on my M6, which square will tell me the things will appear in my photo?

 

 

 

 

Thanks

[Willy Fog]

Found some info

 

PUSH PROCESSING

Push processing allows you to expose the film at higher

film-speed numbers for conditions such as low-level light,

stop action, or existing light. However, there will be a loss

of shadow detail and an increase in graininess.

Because of these films’ exposure latitude, you can

underexpose by one stop and use normal processing

times. Prints will show a slight loss in shadow detail.

You can underexpose by two stops if you increase

development time by push processing. Prints will show an

increase in contrast and graininess with further loss of

shadow detail. However, results should be acceptable for

many applications. Expose a test roll to determine the film

speed that gives the best results for your application.

You can underexpose TRI-X 400 Film / 400TX by three

stops if you increase development time by push

processing. Prints will show an increase in contrast and

graininess, and an additional loss of shadow detail.

However, results should be acceptable for some

applications. Expose some test rolls to determine the film

speed that gives the best results for your application.

 

I think this is for a ''PRO'' so I prefer to buy a f2/50mm, hehe, more easy.

[Willy Fog]

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Hello!

 

After a conversation with my brother-in-law, he told me to go to his house and touch and try his LeicaM6TTL. We will install a film and let me shoot. He also told me to buy a 35mm/F2 for my first lens.

 

 

Here you have some of his photos

 

http://www.flickr.com/people/peterkarasev/

 

 

http://500px.com/karasev

 

So looks very clear now;) finally decided , M6TTL and "maybe" a 35mm/f2, let's see the prices.

[Willy Fog]

Hello!

 

After a conversation with my brother-in-law, he told me to go to his house and touch and try his LeicaM6TTL. We will install a film and let me shoot. He also told me to buy a 35mm/F2 for my first lens.

 

 

Here you have some of his photos

 

Flickr: Peter Karasev

 

 

500px / Peter Karasev / Photos

 

So looks very clear now;) finally decided , M6TTL and "maybe" a 35mm/f2, let's see the prices.

 

Still not clear about the lens, I'm checking and the 35mm f2 will go out of my budget for sure.

 

So, I'm open if you have an idea which lens should I get for my ''future'' Leica M6TTL .72

 

Regards

[Willy Fog]

Well, here I have the camera and some lens.

 

I really like the M6TTL in silver!!! Very nice.

 

My brother-in-law convince me, he told me, spend more if you need, but buy a 35mm/F2 will be a perfect camera for your trips.

 

I think the combo will cost me around 2000€, right?

 

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Regards

[Scarlet]

I will try to find some information about the pushed TriX:D I have no idea about this.

 

(...)

 

If I put a 50mm on my M6, which square will tell me the things will appear in my photo?

 

Re pushing, what you want to to when exposing the film is to set the ISO dial to the ISO at which you wish to expose the film. For example, if you have Tri-X 400 with the dial set at ISO 800 you have pushed it one stop. ISO 1600 is two stops etc. This way your camera will think it has ISO 800 or 1600 film and the meter will give you the readings for such film.

 

Just don't forget to tell your lab at which ISO you exposed the film.

 

The 50mm frame is the outer one.

 

/S

[Willy Fog]

Re pushing, what you want to to when exposing the film is to set the ISO dial to the ISO at which you wish to expose the film. For example, if you have Tri-X 400 with the dial set at ISO 800 you have pushed it one stop. ISO 1600 is two stops etc. This way your camera will think it has ISO 800 or 1600 film and the meter will give you the readings for such film.

 

Just don't forget to tell your lab at which ISO you exposed the film.

 

The 50mm frame is the outer one.

 

/S

 

More clear impossible!

 

Thank you very much!!!!!!! I'll keep this in a word file just in case I'll need it in the future

 

How beautiful is the M6TTL silver! I'm in love, but the problem is... is not my camera, hehe. Now I'm trying the 50mm and the 35mm, let's see which one I will choose. Looks like the 35mm looks much better for my styles of shooting.

 

Regards

[menos I M6]

Peter Karasev has some nice stuff on flickr!

So you are decided on the body then - if you can stretch budget, a nice 35 Summicron will indeed be all, you could need for a while.

 

It must not be a Summicron though, as there are far less costly, nice alternatives, if you can find a good sample (the Canon 35/2 LTM or also a Hexanon 35/2 being nice lenses).

 

Here is, how a chrome M6 looks with the old Leitz Summaron 35/3.5:

 

love my M6 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

drawback:

- 1m minimum focus distance (later, modern 35mm lenses often focus to 0.7m)

- rather slow @ f3.5

- one helicoid design (aperture ring rotates with the whole barrel, when focussing)

 

positives:

- very sharp in the center, even wide open

- beautiful classic rendering with a little bit of swirl and natural light falloff - if that's what one wants)

- very compact lens (the only 35mm Leitz lens, that beats it in compactness is it's predecessor, the 3.5cm Elmar, which is optically a far worse lens)

- beautiful built quality - they don't make them like this anymore

- prone to veiling flare, when used without hood (like many older designs)

 

Push processing B&W film indeed is as easy, as Scarlet describes.

The secret thing about it is, to find a good lab, that does consistent quality.

It will be very simple for you with a metered M body - just dial the higher ISO, you want, keep it at that the entire roll and note the used ISO speed on the roll with a water resistant marker, once you have exposed it.

 

The Summaron really can be used also in Low light:

shanghai - one day

[Willy Fog]

Peter Karasev has some nice stuff on flickr!

So you are decided on the body then - if you can stretch budget, a nice 35 Summicron will indeed be all, you could need for a while.

 

It must not be a Summicron though, as there are far less costly, nice alternatives, if you can find a good sample (the Canon 35/2 LTM or also a Hexanon 35/2 being nice lenses).

 

Here is, how a chrome M6 looks with the old Leitz Summaron 35/3.5:

 

love my M6 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

drawback:

- 1m minimum focus distance (later, modern 35mm lenses often focus to 0.7m)

- rather slow @ f3.5

- one helicoid design (aperture ring rotates with the whole barrel, when focussing)

 

positives:

- very sharp in the center, even wide open

- beautiful classic rendering with a little bit of swirl and natural light falloff - if that's what one wants)

- very compact lens (the only 35mm Leitz lens, that beats it in compactness is it's predecessor, the 3.5cm Elmar, which is optically a far worse lens)

- beautiful built quality - they don't make them like this anymore

- prone to veiling flare, when used without hood (like many older designs)

 

Push processing B&W film indeed is as easy, as Scarlet describes.

The secret thing about it is, to find a good lab, that does consistent quality.

It will be very simple for you with a metered M body - just dial the higher ISO, you want, keep it at that the entire roll and note the used ISO speed on the roll with a water resistant marker, once you have exposed it.

 

The Summaron really can be used also in Low light:

shanghai - one day

 

Thank you for your message.

 

Looks like I've found the body

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/film-forum/247115-buy-wait.html#post2126886

 

I'll stay some time with the Voigtlander nokton 35mm f/1.4 (my brother-in-law lens) and try to find a Leica Lens for Christmas. But of course, I will study these two lenses Canon 35/2 LTM and Hexanon 35/2.

 

The problem is, that I'm not a professional, I can't notice many differences between lens. Maybe in the future, after a time with the M6TTL I will start to know more about photography. That's why I want to give me some time with the Voigtlander.

 

Maybe we can meet in Shanghai for a beer, what do you think? If I'm lucky maybe I can bring my M6TTL with me

 

Regards

[menos I M6]

That M6TTL looks nice! It's a 2001 made model.

Check the camera out and ask the seller to show it to you, helping to check it (learn the checklist from Stephen Gandy's camera quest site - very good help).

 

If you have the chance, to borrow the 35 Voigtlander for some time, you have a very nice starter kit!

[Willy Fog]

That M6TTL looks nice! It's a 2001 made model.

Check the camera out and ask the seller to show it to you, helping to check it (learn the checklist from Stephen Gandy's camera quest site - very good help).

 

If you have the chance, to borrow the 35 Voigtlander for some time, you have a very nice starter kit!

 

Thank you for your comment

 

There is any special thing that I should check in the camera?

 

Regards

[menos I M6]

Thank you for your comment

 

There is any special thing that I should check in the camera?

 

Regards

 

Here is the basics:

 

Leica M Buyer's Checklist

[Willy Fog]

Here is the basics:

 

Leica M Buyer's Checklist

 

Thank you.

 

I've checked (nearly) everything, looks good

[Cheekyguille]

I too at some point had to make the decision between a M6, M6TTL and M7. Ended up with the M6TTL for several reasons:

 

- Found a camera that was minty and just about 10 years old and really on the newer side vs a lot of the M6s out there.

 

- Prefer the dot in the meter vs just two arrows of the M6 but also like the option of full/only mechanical operation vs the M7.

 

- Prefer the bigger shutter speed dial of the M6TTL, is a good compliment to my M9 when I shoot both digital and film.

 

- Got a bit spooked by all the feedback on the issues, perhaps early issues with the M7. Also feared that the better priced M7s could be problematic.

 

- Aperture priority is great for digital, makes me feel lazy for film as with the M7.

 

So I ended up with a black beauty and very happy with it. I would also recommend that you start with the newest possible Summicron given budget, 35mm or 50mm are my sweet spot, but I would be at 35mm if pressed to make a choice. As far as the purist view, well that is always in the mind but I also own an M2, M3 and an MP and a couple of LTMs :-)

 

Here's a pic with the M6TTL on the left and the M9 on the right.

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