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Dumb Film Question: XP2 Exposure Latitude


Cadfael_tex

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You can under over over expose XP2 using standard C-41 processing and still get acceptable negatives for printing. Rating XP2 lower will give you finer grain. Rate it too low and you'll get dense negatives that are harder to print. Ilford claims ISO 50 is finest grain but with very dense negatives. Conversely you'll get thinner negatives and a bit more grain at higher a higher ISO.

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Under or overexposing XP2 produces usable negatives, but not optimal. XP2, like all films, has an inherent sensitivity that is determined by the manufacturer.

 

For you (or me) there is an optimal "personal" exposure index for your camera and meter. Based on thorough tests, my "personal" EI is 200. Many others get roughly the same result. The point is that 400 is about 1 stop too high for the most usable negatives. Exposing XP2 for 200 ASA produces rich negatives with outstanding shadow details, and highlights that are very unlikely to blow out. My negatives scan beautifully and wet print brilliantly. Suits me totally.

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Under or overexposing XP2 produces usable negatives, but not optimal. XP2, like all films, has an inherent sensitivity that is determined by the manufacturer.

 

For you (or me) there is an optimal "personal" exposure index for your camera and meter. Based on thorough tests, my "personal" EI is 200. Many others get roughly the same result. The point is that 400 is about 1 stop too high for the most usable negatives. Exposing XP2 for 200 ASA produces rich negatives with outstanding shadow details, and highlights that are very unlikely to blow out. My negatives scan beautifully and wet print brilliantly. Suits me totally.

 

Exactly and well put.

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Under or overexposing XP2 produces usable negatives, but not optimal. XP2, like all films, has an inherent sensitivity that is determined by the manufacturer.

 

For you (or me) there is an optimal "personal" exposure index for your camera and meter. Based on thorough tests, my "personal" EI is 200. Many others get roughly the same result. The point is that 400 is about 1 stop too high for the most usable negatives. Exposing XP2 for 200 ASA produces rich negatives with outstanding shadow details, and highlights that are very unlikely to blow out. My negatives scan beautifully and wet print brilliantly. Suits me totally.

 

Michael,

 

Do you send the exposed film to a lab or do you process them yourself? In either case do you expose the film at 200 and develop normally or do you adjust the development as well?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Bob

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I would also recommend to determine the films "optimal" sensitivity and stick to it, if light conditions allow. This will make scanning or enlarging easier. The main advantage will be then to be in the position to capture views, which have a strong variation in brightness while still seeing structures in the brightest and darkest parts ot the image.

 

XP2 is developed in the C41 process, which is meant for colour film (in fact, XP2 and BW400CN are both colour films without the colour information). My lab told me they would push C41 by one stop, simply by raising the temperature to the upper limit of the allowed bandwidth. From this I deduce, that C41 is not meant to be pushed. However, with the exposure latitude of these C41 B/W films, it should seldom be necessary.

 

If one plans to balance exposure and development, classic B/W films should be the best choice - I learned in this forum to over-expose and under-develop these films slightly to reduce the difference between the maximum and minimum density in the negative to make scanning or enlarging easier. In this case, home development should be preferred, which does not take too much effort.

 

Stefan

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I sometimes use the Kodak variant at ISO 200. I like the shadow detail it produces. The compensation at the automatic machine printing stage takes care of everything else - otherwise no change in development takes place. Looking at the film's characteristic curve indicates that this subjective impression is not unreasonable.

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Michael,

 

Do you send the exposed film to a lab or do you process them yourself? In either case do you expose the film at 200 and develop normally or do you adjust the development as well?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Bob

 

Hi Bob,

 

I have the film developed by a local Walmart in their machine. It works perfectly and is cheap. I then scan the film myself at resolution sufficient for excellent viewing on a screen. When I want a print for the wall, I make conventional prints. I have (exceptionally) had big-ish prints made from quality scans - the scans are excellent from this film and the prints were good. I just like silver gelatin prints.

 

I don't develop it myself - mainly because there seems to be only a Tetenal kit for C41, which I would have to order by mail etc etc. All too much trouble since commercial processing is close, cheap, top quality and fast.

 

I would not adjust development time (were I doing it myself). Ilford states that you can use 50 - 800 ASA without adjustments in processing. There may be some small advantage in adjusting - but the film has such wide latitude that would not seem to me to add any advantage. Fabulous negatives can be made using the normal C41 process. So I make exposures and get the film developed normally and the results are great. (The photos may be rubbish but the negative quality is terrific).

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In fact Ilford does not recommend any push development with this film.

 

The best results you will get within iso 200-400 with this film where iso 200-250 is the best rate for having printed classical B&W photos (gradation 2,5) from this chromogene C41 film.

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