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corner fix vs coded lenses


tobey bilek

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Why not just have your lenses coded properly and be done with that, and get on with photography? :confused:

 

I haven't found a template that actually works as it should. I also usually end up converting to b&w. Final insult is that I'll probably move to an M9 or otherwise quit the M8 soon, and the lens menu system ain't coming to M8.

 

All in all, it's not worth all the trouble.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Searching eBay for "adapter 6-bit" gets several dozen adapters milled for coding. You would need to apply the black paint/nailpolish yourself for the actual code.

 

Alternatively, John Milich machines new brass adapters with coding pits milled in...

 

John Milich

Product and Design

63 Flushing Ave

Brooklyn NY 11205

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  • 2 months later...
I haven't found a template that actually works as it should. I also usually end up converting to b&w. Final insult is that I'll probably move to an M9 or otherwise quit the M8 soon, and the lens menu system ain't coming to M8.

 

All in all, it's not worth all the trouble.

I don't like the hassle of coding myself either, so I send them off to Will van Manen Kameraservice. Affordable and fast.

The menu system is not all that hot either, as you have to remember to delve into the menu each time you change lenses.

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Corner fix works perfectly. Nothing else does. I tried to hack around with radial gradient masks in photoshop and color filters. Got close, but no cigar. Just do cornerfix.

 

Get a clean white board from an art supply store and do the photos of it filling the frame . Every lens 35 and wider at every f stop because they are all different. That becomes the data base for the correction. If the board has an imperfection, that will get imaged on every photo, so take care to keep it in good condition.

 

Use a North light outside or two at 45 deg like a copy set up. The copy set up is best. It need not be in focus, in fact better if not. I used infinity

 

The quality of the fix will depend on the evenness of the light so take great care to get this right. If wrong, every photo will show the error. Take a meter reading of the board, then open 1.5 stops to keep it white.

 

All that said, you are best off to code the lens for convenience. The camera correction is still not perfect, but close enough for most photos. For perfect, make a data base of the white board with the camera correction doing the bulk of the work. You will see when you do the first snow scene how good this is.

 

This sounds like quite a hassle. I just took a picture of my white wall which even has texture on it with the aperture wide open and it works. Can't notice any imperfections. Maybe I just have bad eyes.

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I just changed the mounts on my 28 and 90 both still focus as they should, they are pretty good quality and look exactly the same as the original ones I tried using a sharpie but that did not work but once i filled the pits with black paint it worked a treat. I used a cocktail stick to drop the paint in the pit and didn't bother with white. They are so cheap if it doesn't work you can always put the original ones back on. The only lens I've not coded is 35mm pre asph as the mount is different I'm tempted to take the dremel to that but maybe not!

Oh and make sure you use good quality screwdrivers the screws are quite soft metal and easy to chew up!

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I got this thing on eBay for $75. It snaps into place on the lens and comes with a marker. Makes coding any lens take about 30 seconds.

 

The only lens it didn't work on was my 135mm f2.8 because there's a screw right in the middle of the coding area.

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