R lenses on digital body..

[berndr]

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Here's my actual R solution:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digitalforum/213876-r-trifft-a65-mein-neues-spielzeug.html

 

It's just APS-C but this solution has no problems with the stopped down aperture, what you see is what you get! But I'm still waiting for the new Fullframe Sony Alpha SLT...

 

Kind regards,

Bernd.

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[mmradman]

I would look at the Nikon D800. Just announced.

 

CJ

 

Or D800E - D800 sans AA filter. Time to Leitax APO Macro Elmarit.

[steveclem]

Well, your R6 is still a phenomenal camera, and it will still be capable of superb results. Just because digital has joined the party doesn't mean that your film gear has got any worse!

Some of us would say sticking your R glass on some digicam is in fact a big step backwards!

Why do you need to shoot digitally?

 

I would never say I actually need to go digital but having had my slumbering interest restored by the results I've seen both on here and from my own experience, I want to pursue it further.

I always shot E6 or occasionally Kodachrome/Fuji process paid but one of them has died and the others are more limited nowadays.The main reason for change is the sheer scope and new learning curve of digital has got me going, I was far too stuck in my old ways to even consider the option, which was a big mistake on my part I know but there you are. I had other things in my life taking up my attention so the cameras got put away.

The reason I asked for analogue control dials and aperture were because that was where the time warp dial (no pun intended) was stuck at when I stepped off the photography carousel. Ideally I'd prefer to step back on gently rather than leap aboard with all buttons and multiple choice function wheels etc. But I realise options are limited.

I've seen now, via posters here the many ways I can attempt to do this and it does appear that the initial simplicity I craved is not so readily apparent and I will need to adjust and re-acquaint myself with modern systems.

The digicam I currently use (LC1) has the manual options however I'm using auto mostly while I get the feel of things, I can then play around with the physical nature of the machine while I learn about the digital side once the pictures have been transferred to my laptop. I loved using film but for me, I want to absorb more in digital land as the results are apparent quicker, an ethos perhaps not necessarily best for taking photographs but as I say, it's the learning curve and it suits me at this time.

It's a work in progress and I really appreciate the advice

 

Steve

[lars_bergquist]

Steve, the Photokina in September may well bring the solution you are seeking. It will be at least an APS-C solution (15.6x20.8mm) or possibly a M8-like one (18x27mm). And it will certainly be able to take R lenses and have some kind of focus assist.

 

The old man of Endor

[steveclem]

It sounds like something special could make an appearance going from the X1 and other threads here. I've got enough time to wait as an investment of this sort cannot be rushed and at least I'll have more time to get used to the digital world. I've waited several years now, a few months won't be too hard to do........

[viramati]

looks like the new nikon 800e and leica glass could be quite a combo!!

Nikon D800 Preview: 1. Introduction: Digital Photography Review

[steveclem]

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Indeed it does David, my only problem is it looks like a typewriter from the back and I have no idea which of all those buttons and menus I'll actually need.

[andybarton]

The D800 discussion is going on here

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digital-forum/210235-leitax-users-consider-ante-well-truly.html

[steveclem]

I've been following it Andy, for that price I'm unwilling to take a plunge just yet, it still looks like something out of Star Trek and in my digital novice stage, I'd prefer to leave all the razzamatazz to my laptop and some picture editing software. I would hope in the not too distant future Leica could come out with a relatively uncluttered film holder to mount their super R lenses on, they did it with the M's so I'm sure they can do it with an R series body that doesn't feel the need to have an electronic multifunction button that can tell if someones fillings have fallen out or what Hz the electrons are moving about at. Another DMR in fact, retro designed for my R6 at least would be nice but it aint ever going to happen, I know.

[andybarton]

"It ain't ever going to happen"

 

Photokina in September will probably bring something, but it won't be as good as this Nikon and it will probably cost about the same.

[Jaybob]

The NEX cameras have focus peaking, which highlights in the viewfinder the areas that are in focus. Better than focus confirmation IMHO because it's effective everywhere in the viewfinder, not just at a focus point.

 

Focus peaking gets me in the ballpark, but the MF assist function where you can zoom into an area like a loupe is the best feature in the entire NEX line.

 

This my NEX5 setup with the one R lens that I use, a 135 2.8 3 cam , but I use all of the M lenses listed in my signature.

The Hoodman cinema kit makes me feel like I'm holding a camera up to my eye as opposed to the uncomfotable "at arms length" method of shooting that I am not a huge fan of.

 

 

NEX5-N has an optional viewfinder that would make the whole unit much less telescope like in appearance. NEX 7 has a viewfinder built in. The NEX5 (the older model that I have) has no way to attach an EVF, so I got Hoodman'ed.

 

Are there problems with this set up? You betcha.

 

This isn't very stealth. It's much better with the 50 on it, but still EVERYWHERE I shoot, people want to know "what kinda camera ya got there?"

 

No flash shoe. You think you wont need one, but sometimes you do. An adapter to a shoe is available for the NEX7 that adds 400 dollars to a camera that still hasn't shipped. Otherwise it's all proprietary connectors for underpowered units.

 

You can't just start blasting away at ASA 12800 and expect to get good noisless exposures. The sensor is just not that good. With LR3 noise reduction 3200 is the realistic ceiling on my NEX5. NEX5n has a new sensor that may be better, but the lower you set that film speed the better.

 

Positives?

 

It's cheap. The camera, two adapters, and the hoodman cinema kit, 850-900 dollars. Buying more adapter than you think you need, (Novaflex or Voightlander) is recommended. I use the fotodiox and they are good. Avoid inexpensive adapters.

 

Great image quality at those lower speeds 200 400 800 1600.

 

I am used to the controls and I like the layout. There are a million menus that you can easlily get lost in, but once you figure out the things you need to be able to change QUICKLY (for me it's the ISO, the white balance, the metering mode) it's very easy to program those items into a button press and a wheel spin.

[bill]

That seems excessive. The GXR has focus peaking/magnification, a hotshoe and a decent (and tiltable) EVF without having to resort to major cost or surgery. When I get home I shall post a shot of an "equivalent" setup with my 135mm Elmarit-R on my GXR for comparison.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

[stunsworth]

Focus peaking gets me in the ballpark, but the MF assist function where you can zoom into an area like a loupe is the best feature in the entire NEX line

 

I found this a very slow and clumsy way of working with my GF-1, so much so that I don't bother to use M lenses on it any more.

[earleygallery]

Indeed it does David, my only problem is it looks like a typewriter from the back and I have no idea which of all those buttons and menus I'll actually need.

 

You'll need all of them, a digital camera body is practically a computer. How many keys on your computers keyboard don't you need?

 

But, once you set everything up how you want it, then you don't need to touch the buttons unless you want to (to change ISO, view a shot on the screen, change mode etc).

 

As I said in my previous post, there's no need to go digital unless you want to. But, if you do want to, then you need to embrace it and change the way you work a little. It's not film, the cameras are different and the results are different.

[lars_bergquist]

OK, does a serious digital camera really need more buttons than a M9 has?

 

With mechanical cameras, every new function took some serious engineering. With electronic, and especially digital cameras, 'features' are dead cheap – you just program them in. Then you have to find place for a button for that 'feature'. Space for new buttons is the new limiting factor in camera design. Sooner or later, a Canon will come with an external button keyboard. Probably sooner.

 

The next M should have a thumb button to lock exposure (programmable to keep it locked while pressed, or to give an on-off function). On the other hand, the Delete button could well be deleted because you should never delete frames in the field, even less in the camera.

 

The unbuttoned old man

[steveclem]

You'll need all of them, a digital camera body is practically a computer. How many keys on your computers keyboard don't you need?

 

But, once you set everything up how you want it, then you don't need to touch the buttons unless you want to (to change ISO, view a shot on the screen, change mode etc).

 

As I said in my previous post, there's no need to go digital unless you want to. But, if you do want to, then you need to embrace it and change the way you work a little. It's not film, the cameras are different and the results are different.

 

I probably use about 60-80% of them but I see what you're saying, I'm just happier having to do all the adjusting on my computer rather than a plethora of buttons on a camera but then, I'm a bit of a technophobe and would like to see,in an ideal world, a simple digital module that could be inserted rather like a film into my cameras, store all the data and which,when downloaded onto a computer can them be manipulated with all the bangs and whistles known to science. The cameras could be kept smaller, a separate processing module, if needed, could be built into something like a battery pack as an extension of the camera or via a lead to a jacket pocket carried unit and the person behind the lens could carry on taking images and capturing scenes in a less cluttered environment. I don't know enough about design or electronics to state this confidently but I feel, through ignorance and unfamiliarity of modern Dslrs .The popularity of M cameras surely testify to that, and more so the 'P' versions. I also think it's a shame Leica have so far ignored R glass users in the digital world.So far ! A professional would doubtless feel different about this and need to change in situ perhaps but a simple computer program could easily achieve this via a usb cable and a couple of minutes. Less is more, I'll have to have a look at an M8 and see just what that has in regard to the functions I'd like to see but I'm not yet ready to ditch my R lenses for an M system just yet.

Thank you for your replies so far, it's all going into the analogue processor between my ears.

 

NB: Lars, you got in before I could reply but I think we're singing from the same hymn sheet here.

[giordano]

OK, does a serious digital camera really need more buttons than a M9 has?

 

Well, if you don't have autofocus you don't need a button for AF-lock and controls for AF mode. If you don't allow users the choice of matrix, centre-weighted, spot and full-frame metering you don't need a control for that. We're agreed on the need for a proper AE lock button. And that's without going into details such as multi-sensor AF (which some serious photographers need), electronic "spirit levels" (very convenient), or controls that SLRs need but rangefinders don't (e.g. aperture preview, mirror up).

 

With mechanical cameras, every new function took some serious engineering. With electronic, and especially digital cameras, 'features' are dead cheap – you just program them in. Then you have to find place for a button for that 'feature'. Space for new buttons is the new limiting factor in camera design. Sooner or later, a Canon will come with an external button keyboard. Probably sooner.

 

No need. Just a Bluetooth or wifi link to your smartphone or tablet or laptop.

 

The next M should have a thumb button to lock exposure (programmable to keep it locked while pressed, or to give an on-off function). On the other hand, the Delete button could well be deleted because you should never delete frames in the field, even less in the camera.

 

Deleting frames in the field may be bad, but losing shots because your last functioning card is full is worse. No need for a dedicated Delete button, but there must be a way of deleting in camera.

[kanzlr]

I found this a very slow and clumsy way of working with my GF-1, so much so that I don't bother to use M lenses on it any more.

 

it works better with the GXR.

When zoomed in, halfpress the shutter to see the full scene, release to be zoomed in again. super. I halfpress to find the thing to focus on, release to focus, halfpress again to meter and compose/shoot.

 

very fluid.

 

actually, even without the zoom, in mode2 assist the GXR is easier to focus than the Pentax K5 with split prism I had a while ago.

[mmradman]

I probably use about 60-80% of them but I see what you're saying, I'm just happier having to do all the adjusting on my computer rather than a plethora of buttons on a camera but then, I'm a bit of a technophobe and would like to see,in an ideal world, a simple digital module that could be inserted rather like a film into my cameras, store all the data and which,when downloaded onto a computer can them be manipulated with all the bangs and whistles known to science. The cameras could be kept smaller, a separate processing module, if needed, could be built into something like a battery pack as an extension of the camera or via a lead to a jacket pocket carried unit and the person behind the lens could carry on taking images and capturing scenes in a less cluttered environment. I don't know enough about design or electronics to state this confidently but I feel, through ignorance and unfamiliarity of modern Dslrs .The popularity of M cameras surely testify to that, and more so the 'P' versions. I also think it's a shame Leica have so far ignored R glass users in the digital world.So far ! A professional would doubtless feel different about this and need to change in situ perhaps but a simple computer program could easily achieve this via a usb cable and a couple of minutes. Less is more, I'll have to have a look at an M8 and see just what that has in regard to the functions I'd like to see but I'm not yet ready to ditch my R lenses for an M system just yet.

Thank you for your replies so far, it's all going into the analogue processor between my ears.

 

NB: Lars, you got in before I could reply but I think we're singing from the same hymn sheet here.

 

Reading between the lines digital film you wish for is called memory card - very small & easy to work with. As said before digital photography is a new concept, you either embrace it or you don't.

 

It would be contrary to your desires for a compact camera to have insertable digital module, actually removable digital modules have been round for some time, notable examples; Leica DMR, many medium format and large format digital backs - none of them particularly portable.

 

R lenses have digital future on many digital platforms, not Leica's doing (yet).

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[Jaybob]

I found this a very slow and clumsy way of working with my GF-1, so much so that I don't bother to use M lenses on it any more.

 

it works better with the GXR.

When zoomed in, halfpress the shutter to see the full scene, release to be zoomed in again. super. I halfpress to find the thing to focus on, release to focus, halfpress again to meter and compose/shoot.

 

very fluid.

 

actually, even without the zoom, in mode2 assist the GXR is easier to focus than the Pentax K5 with split prism I had a while ago.

 

Sony's shutter button is only a shutter button. Standby to ON to almost no shutter lag.

 

There are three control buttons on the back (ignoring the "Movie" button). The bottom button is dedicated to manual focus assist. One press gets you a 7x view, a second press goes to 14x, third goes back to full screen. You can move that selected zoom area around the frame quite quickly using the click wheel. I personally found it to be very intuitive.

 

 

Focus peaking is in 3 different intensities (and OFF) and 3 different colors as well, white, red, or yellow. Very helpful, if the most of the colors you're trying to focus on are either white, red, or yellow. You can switch it to another color and focus is beyond easy to find.

 

As I said, the whole unit looks a little more reasonable looking with a smaller lens attached to it. The R mount adapter is larger than the M mount adapter, as well. For me the Hoodman cinema kit, is certainly preferable to the arms length, "I have a cell phone that also takes photos" pose. In all honesty, how the NEX looks isn't nearly as important to me as what I'm seeing on the louped up big 3 inch screen, and then on the SD card. Just my opinion, but I'm very happy with the combination.

 

 

You can get a EVF on the new NEXes, either NEX-5n or NEX-7, something I will do when I replace this camera in a few months.