Leica M6 and Summilux M 35 1.4

[Amoda]

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Hey,

 

I have the opportunity to purchase a M6 with 35 1.4 lens for $2,730.

 

As this would be my first Leica, and first film camera, I am looking for advice on the following issues:

 

A) What can I check to make sure it's functioning correctly? I can't really just take a picture and develop it, so what can else can I do?

If something is broken, are they expensive to repair?

C) Am I mistaken, or is $2,730 really low for this kit? Are there several versions, some that are higher cost and others that are lower cost? I'm asking since on eBay it seems that the lens alone sells for $2-4K.

 

Thank you!

[Amoda]

Any assistance would be really appreciated, I meeting the individual tomorrow morning.

 

Another question:

D) How can I tell the difference between a pre and post ASPH 35mm lens?

[wlaidlaw]

Camera:

1) Do a rough check of the shutter speeds. If the slow ones are about right, then the faster ones will probably be OK.

2) Check meter working and if possible check exposures against another camera. Don't accept "well it just needs a battery" suggest the seller gets one and shows you it working. Unlike some older cells, e.g. the PX625 for an M5, the batteries for the M6 are easily obtainable from most pharmacies/photo shops.

3) Look though the back without a film in, while pointing the body with no lens at a bright light or the sun (important not to have lens in or you can burn a hole in the shutter curtains). Get someone to make a shade round the back of the camera and check for pin holes in the curtains both with the shutter cocked and fired.

4) Check there are no wrinkles in the curtains and that they move smoothly at low speeds.

5) Look for serious dents in body or around light sealing area of bottom and back.

6) Check VF clear and nil to minimal fungus growths round RF patch.

7) Check RF correct at infinity (images converge on object at least 1/2 mile /1 km away).

 

Lens:

1) Which 35 Summilux? This lens has been through a number of iterations since 1961. Only the current FLE, the Aspherical and ASPH fetch big money. An older 35 will be worth around $1,000 to $1,750.

2) Check with very bright light or even better a UV light for fungus and excessive dust.

3) Front and rear elements should be evenly coated with no colour change at the edges and minimal scratching. A small amount of cleaning swirl marks will not affect the image significantly.

 

I would say the deal seems a little cheap but it depends how much and how quickly the seller needs the money. Ask why they are not selling on eBay, where I would guess this combo, depending on which 35 Lux is fitted, would fetch between $3000 and $5000+

 

On 35 Luxes, there is a very big sample variation on the previous ASPH. They can be awful with back focus and horrible aperture shift or they can be wonderful. Can you borrow or hire an M8 or M9 to check? Unlike the current FLE model, they don't seem to suffer from colour fringing on the M9. A friend's FLE has been back to Leica for this problem and seems to have come back little improved.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Wilson

[wlaidlaw]

The ASPH lenses will say ASPH on the front ring. The pretty rare Aspherical will say Aspherical on the front ring. The current FLE has a tubular snap on hood. History as follows:

 

Leica 35mm F1.4 Summilux-M (1961-1995),

Model #11870

 

Leica 35mm F1.4 Summilux-M Aspherical (1991-1994),

Model #11873

 

Leica 35mm F1.4 Summilux-M ASPH Version 1 (1994-2010)

Model #11874 Black; #11883 Chrome

 

Leica 35mm F1.4 Summilux-M ASPH Version 2 - FLE (2010-current),

Model #11663 Black only but ? other special versions when sales fall off.

 

Wilson

[wattsy]

Model #11663 Black only but ? other special versions when sales fall off.

 

There's a titanium version available if you are prepared to buy a phenomenally tacky special edition M9 at the same time.

[wlaidlaw]

There's a titanium version available if you are prepared to buy a phenomenally tacky special edition M9 at the same time.

 

Thanks Ian, I had forgotten about the Audi TT M9.

 

Wilson

[lars_bergquist]

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And the hood of the 'FLE' (I call it the v.2) is not snap-on but screw-on with a stop thread. The item # of the hood is 12465 and it is also used by the new 21mm Super-Elmar.

 

The screwball old man

[wlaidlaw]

And the hood of the 'FLE' (I call it the v.2) is not snap-on but screw-on with a stop thread. The item # of the hood is 12465 and it is also used by the new 21mm Super-Elmar.

 

The screwball old man

 

Lars,

 

You will have to tell Leica. I thought it was as you said or a bayonet but I checked on the Leica website on the info sheet for the FLE. Perhaps they meant the cap.

 

Wilson

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[wattsy]

The hood definitely screws on. The only thing that snaps-on is the standard E46 lens cap.

[lars_bergquist]

I don't know if it helps to tell Leica. Their specs sheets contain many ludicrous errors of fact. But I do own both the 35mm Summilux ASPH v.2 and the Super-Elmar, and I do not think that the fact that their hoods are identical, interchangeable and have the same number is due to some special favour they think they owe me.

 

The wide-eyed old man

[Amoda]

Hey guys,

 

I know this is a little late but i wanted to say thank you for all your help! I ended up purchasing the set.

 

It ended up being the M6 Wetzlar, and German copy of the 35 1.4 Pre-ASPH (which I sold for $2500).

 

I loved the set, but I think I'm better served with a cheaper lens - tight budget and all. So in the end I got an M6 for $230, so I'm a happy camper.

 

Cheers,

Amoda

 

Edit: Oh and the hood would screw onto a mount, which snaps onto the lens.

[wlaidlaw]

Amoda,

 

Well done!

 

You might like to think of the Zeiss ZM lenses. I have had four, 50/2 Planar, 35/2 Biogon, 25/2.8 Biogon and 21/2.8 Biogon. They were all great lenses. I sold the 35 and 21 to a friend when I got a 35 ASPH Summilux and a Wide Angle Tri Elmar but still have the other two. This is a better satisfaction rate than my purchases of Leica lenses, whose lenses are a bit like the little girl in the nursery rhyme, who when she was good, she was very very good but when she was bad she was horrid. Voigtlander lenses have been a total wash out for me - three bought, two total duds and one that needed a lot of adjustment (35/1,2) and I still did not like for its low contrast and susceptibility to flare.

 

The Zeiss lenses are not as good as a Leica lens at their very best but they are very close. They are flare bomb proof and very high contrast. It is easy to tone down contrast in post production but less satisfactory to add it artificially. The only two ZM lenses on which I would advise caution are the 50/1.5, which is a very specialist lens, that is designed to draw in an old fashioned way wide open and the now out of production 85/2. This last was very expensive new and generally out-performed by the slightly cheaper Leica 90/2 APO-Summicron. Zeiss have now replaced it by the 85/4, which IMHO would be outperformed by a second hand, usually cheaper and faster Leica Elmarit-M 90/2.8, which is one of Leica's gems.

 

Wilson