Color film developing suggestions please!!!!

[erl]

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Vo, you have a predominately blue cast in those images. It may be your developing or may be your image processing for screen. I don't know. However, first time dev of colour negs is, at best, a gamble. Varying your dev time will have an influence and the only way to work that out is to experiment. That will also shift your colour and I suspect that may be what has happened to you. Try increasing your dev time 20% to see what changes. Eventually you will get a good grip on what variables are affecting your particulary set up.

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[erl]

snipped

 

Playing the devil's advocate for a moment, I might ask why you want to develop your own C41 films, as there's no real variation you can do to the process if you want to get good results. You will, of course, get the satisfaction of having done it all - a kind of development test - and it may be cheaper, although wasteage may reduce the amount you save.

 

The benefits of 'self developing' (col or B&W) is the possibility of greater consistency, avoidance of careless lab handling which is an ever increasing problem in the digital driven world and maintenance of total control of the creative process. Cost is also far less but the other factors are the main reasons. Personal satisfaction must also figure very high on the 'why' scale.

[andybarton]

Slight colour casts are common with C41 processing and can be dealt with in scanning and post-processing.

[Doc Henry]

Vo, you have a predominately blue cast in those images.

Erl,

I think it also comes from the Portra 160 this aspect a little blue or bluish , right?

This is why I prefer the Portra 400 warmer !

look at this link post 109 et 113

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/nature-wildlife/195779-rose-i-love-open-thread-6.html

Best regards

Henry

[tuanvo1982]

Vo, you have a predominately blue cast in those images. It may be your developing or may be your image processing for screen. I don't know. However, first time dev of colour negs is, at best, a gamble. Varying your dev time will have an influence and the only way to work that out is to experiment. That will also shift your colour and I suspect that may be what has happened to you. Try increasing your dev time 20% to see what changes. Eventually you will get a good grip on what variables are affecting your particulary set up.

 

Yes, it is very true about blue cast. I got problem when I pour solution into my tank. I didn't check time after that I only reduce 10 seconds of total developing time. The 1st time so I got some problem with multi-tasks like checking temperature, pouring solution to re-use....etc

 

Finally, I need to use camera raw to change temperature to make it warmer

 

Anyways, Thank you very much for your help.

[AlanG]

It is hard to judge your processing because I don't know what you did in scanning. But the issue does not look like a simple color cast.

 

Since you are so new to this and haven't any real reference on what is the correct procedure, you should shoot some images under controlled daylight balanced lighting (flash is probably the easiest) with standard color test charts so you have a reference when scanning.

 

A test chart has different steps of grey so you can fairly easily tell if you are processing "close" to correctly if all of the steps are neutral. If the lighter shades are shifted one color such as slightly greenish, and the darker shades are shifted to another color, such as magenta, then, then your processing is off and the result is a "crossed curve." This was pretty much uncorrectable in the days of printing negs on paper.

 

You might be able to correct this in scanning by making an opposite crossed curve in the scanning software or in Photoshop.

 

Real labs run control strips in the processor. These are carefully exposed films that are supplied by Kodak, Fuji, etc. and are measured with a densitometer and charted to analyze if the process is drifting out of acceptable limits. If you consistently shoot a test chart image exactly the same way on each roll that you process, you'll be able to measure it in your scanning software to see if you are being consistent. I think the way you are proceeding is very hit or miss and good color processing demands working very tightly.

 

If you enjoy it, that is ok, but I doubt that you'll get the most from your images compared with using a good lab. And C41 processing is pretty inexpensive.

[erl]

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With respect Alan, I don't entirely agree. A good controlled home process is, better than most Pro labs today for a number of reasons. Emphasize 'controlled', which is not difficult.

 

Firstly, the C41 packs available today, along with say, JOBO machines are 'One Shot' processing. This facilitates absolute consistency beyond what commercial labs achieve, which typical drift and then require replenishment. It's 'Russian Roulette' as to when your films go into their process. I gave that away years ago even when the good labs still existed. My image quality took a quantum leap forward such that even clients noticed the difference.

 

you are right about testing film and process times with a grey chart or similar to establish the optimum time/temp for the individual system. Generally, under development is the first result, especially if close temp control is not achieved. Again, that is easily achieved with a largish water bath. Consistency is more important than absolute temperature by the way. If variables exist in a system's process, the important thing is to maintain them consistently.

 

The whole deal is easily effected in reality. Much easier than talking about it.

[AlanG]

I agree one can get good results at home, but working carefully and consistently is important. Whether the home user does as good a job as the lab depends on the home user and the lab in question. But any pro lab would not be a pro lab if it didn't keep the process in control and produce clean scratch free results. I have no idea what the standards are in discounted processing that is typical in one hour labs. I'd suspect some are OK and some are not.

[erl]

Again you are basically right Alan. The problem today is the diminishing prevalence of Pro labs and even the 'other' type of lab. Realistically, I believe for film users to survive, they/we will need to lift our game and tackle home processing seriously and vigorously. It is not rocket science. Just pure routine.

[Lucklik]

Once the bottle seal is broken, the chemicals go off very quickly. You can't keep it for More than a week or two.

 

No you can keep the chemicals much longer.

According to the datasheet 6 week for the used developer and 24 weeks for Blix and Stab

Opened concentration 12 weeks for Dev and 24 weeks for Blix and Stab

[andybarton]

That's very different from Tetenal E6 chemicals in that case. They go off very quickly indeed.

[Lucklik]

Regarding the results.

I dev @ 30C because at 37C the developing times are to short for developing in a tank (not jobo processor)

The results are better, cheaper then the labs I used in the past.

And I can do it 24/7

I have used 5 or 6 1l Tetenal C-41 kits and developed at least 10 films in 1 liter.

[cbretteville]

Thanks for the tips guys!

 

I have a Tetenal 1 liter kit on the way. I've decided to try for two reasons. A) I want to play a little with the new Porta in both 135 and 120. the one lab I like to use is 30 min each way by car from the office, they charge NOK75 (€11) to soup a roll.

 

The full cost of the kit, delivered here in Oslo from Germany is such that if I am able to soup three rolls, I make a profit. I found a source of the kit locally, but his price was about 6x the self import price (wonder what he was on when he set that price)

 

Carl

[erl]

Carl, I have used, and am probably now compelled, to keep using the Tetenal C41 (my Agfa stocks have exhausted). A useful hint is to 'split' the chemistry into a series of smaller bottles, carefully filling each bittle to exclude as much air as possible. I have found I can keep any such totally filled bottles for a considerable period. Once air is admitted, the life nosedives. As I recall, I can 'extract' three separate processing sessions from the one litre kit this way. I use only "one shot" technique, which IMO is vital for quality control.

 

In my case, I have to buy from B&H in NY. The kit costs, I think, $19. Shipping is $60!!!!

 

Looking for an alternative.

[DOUG66]

Hi erl,

 

If you are looking for an alternative.

 

I have been developing both E6 and C41 emulsions since they originaly appeared on the market.

 

I make up my developing solutions from raw chemicals according to the formulae published by

Derek Watkins in "SLR Camera" March 1981 and the British Journal of Photography.

I make up the stock developing solutions at double strength without the developing agents.

The stock solutions keep for about 2 years.

Stock solutions are made up in deionised or distilled water and filtered after the chemicals

are added. Calgon ( Sodium Hexametaphosphate ) can be omitted.

 

For working solutions, I measure out half of the required volumn of stock solution and and

the same volumn of distilled or deionised water. To the water I add about 10% of

the measured stock solution and in it desolve the developing agents. This helps to disolve

the chemicals ( Phenidone is difficult to dissolve ).

When the developing agents are dissolved add the remainder of the stock solution.

 

Note the E6 colour developer requires to be made up 12 to 24 hours before use and left open to

the air. It needs to oxidise slightly for best results. Cover with a filter paper to exclude dust.

 

The developing agents are:

E6 1st developer Phenidone and Hydroquinone

Colour Developer CD3

 

C41 Colour Developer CD4

 

Note: 500ml of both colour developers will process 4 36exp 135 films.

 

Note: For consistant results I use the 1st E6 developer once only and discard.

 

Note the colour developing agents ( CD3 and CD4 ) need to be fresh. buy them only in 25 gm lots.

 

For the stop baths I use domestic 5% acetic acid white vinegar and dilute 1 + 9 parts water,

use once and discard.

 

Bleach I make up according to the ferricyanide formula. I filter it before use and use it until

almost exhausted when I then top it up with fresh solution. It lasts a very long time,

typically 5 to 10 years. If you examine the film on the spiral the backing side of the film

should look blue if bleached, any traces of brown indicates exhaustion and requires more time.

I always filter before use.

 

I use a commercially available Ammonium thiosulphate fixer.

 

 

I wash in tap water which has passed through a 1 micron filter cartridge. A 15min wash is required

after the E6 colour developer when using the ferricyanide bleach.

 

I do not use a chemical fogging agent in the E6 colour developer. Before the Colour Dev.

I expose the film submerged in a white bowl, 6 flashes to both ends of a transparent spiral.

 

I use Photo flow or other available agent or even dishwasher rinse aid after the final wash.

 

For temp, control I use a Hamilton digital thermometer (+/- 0.3 deg C). The only solutions that

require accurate temp. control are the developers. Other solutions will work at room temp.

To avoid temp. shock I warm the stop baths to aprox. 30 deg C. I also warm the tank with water

at 39 C before the developers.

 

I did use water baths and a home built rotating system similar to the JOBO but now I use temp.

compensation using a hand held calculator in a naturally cooling developing tank, details of

which I have published in this forum.

 

You will need to purchase a small chemical balance and a set of weights, to weigh the small

quantities of developing agents.

 

For filtering solutions ram a plug of cotton wool into the stem of a plastic funnel. It is

much quicker than filter paper.

 

Note: Use gloves a face mask and eye protection when handling chemicals needless to say

"NO SMOKING".

 

Good luck.

 

Doug.

[erl]

Thanks Doug. A most comprehensive and detailed account. It reminds me of the days when I used to employ an old fashioned beam balance to weigh my chemicals (back in the late 50's!).

 

I suspect finding convenient sources of supply for some of the chemicals, especially in small quantities, may be problematic in my area. However, I will inquire.

 

I feel my dinosaur skin slowly growing over me.

[tuanvo1982]

I have found that 30 degree is easier to manage

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[cbretteville]

These look great. Which film did you use?

Carl

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[tuanvo1982]

These look great. Which film did you use?

Carl

 

Thx. Ektar 100

[AlanG]

These look great. Which film did you use?

Carl

 

Sorry, but I think someone has to tell you that you have some problems either in film processing or in scanning. I guess some were shot under fluorescent light but that wouldn't fully explain it. As I said before, you probably will do a lot better if you shoot some images with a color chart in them for reference.