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M8 pano again!


Clive Murray-White

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Not overly happy about this thread being shoved out of M8 forum, sure it can be argued that there is a general interest in it but the more persuasive case is that it is M8 specific. Not much that can be done now, lets see if it just withers on the vine because of its planting in different soil.

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How is it M8 specific? It's all about the nodal point of lenses, which is completely ambivalent to the body upon which it is attached.

 

So, any discussion is relevant to all M users and it should have been moved earlier.

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Here's one I did on my balcony. I didn't have a real tripod so just sat it on a bean bag in landscape orientation. About two photos wide and 8 photos stacked. Now I can't wait until the next big storms come to try some other ideas with the lightning and panoramas. Maybe black and white too.

Azure Uptown Dallas Lightning Panorama | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

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Very glad to see that the Panoplant is thriving, great pics too

 

Re: M8 specific - when I suggested that I should borrow my brother-in-law's m34 to get entrance pupil info, I recieved this PM from a member: quoted in part

 

"............that will give you a precise setting on the rig for that camera with your chosen lens mounted. The thickness of the camera, and placement therein of it's sensor, and the positioning of the tripod mount all [as examples] effect the rig setup. You need to do the rig setup with the chosen camera/lens combination you intend to use......."

 

Obviously knowing the entrance pupil/nodal point of various lenses is quite helpful but knowing it and all the other variables in relation to our M8s is what I was hoping to find out.

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[....] lets see if it just withers on the vine because of its planting in different soil.

 

Good point!

 

It seems to apply to the M9 as much as the M8 - at least to me, so IMHO it should be in a general digital context.

 

In fact, if you shoot the M8 in vertical mode with adequate overlap for each pano image is the very same technology.

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This is M relevant. Not digital relevant at all.

 

Maybe you would like to describe how you went about setting up your film M for the pano that you posted.

 

I supose if you did it without a film in the camera you could open the back up, use a focus screen, set the rig up, put the film in and away you go basically as easy as an SLR.

 

That's probably how I'd do it with my Fuji GW670 could even be worth a try with the X-pan, still a lot different to M8.

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Had a spare moment today and made this to show the kind of subject I'm working with, probably should have waited for a less bright day but this'll have to do, M8 (portrait), tripod and Summicron 50. CS5.5 put it all together nicely..............but a very large % of the picture had to be cropped out because I had no way of keeping the camera level as I panned around (about 8 shots)

 

6300550451_9b1942573e_b.jpg

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Maybe you would like to describe how you went about setting up your film M for the pano that you posted.

 

I supose if you did it without a film in the camera you could open the back up, use a focus screen, set the rig up, put the film in and away you go basically as easy as an SLR.

 

That's probably how I'd do it with my Fuji GW670 could even be worth a try with the X-pan, still a lot different to M8.

 

I stand there on my own two feet, with the camera in manual mode (if it's an automatic). Keeping all the exposures the same is essential.

 

I then shoot the extreme left hand shot (in this case, in portrait orientation), turn the camera (not my body) through 1/3 shot width, then take another, and repeat as necessary.

 

I then scan all the shots at the same setting and stitch them together in Photoshop.

 

I see no need to open up backs, use tracing paper, or any other such complications.

 

I have done dozens of panoramas this way and cannot remember the last time I even used a tripod for one. Probably about 18 months ago, for this one

 

Three Graces

 

The following were all done hand held as described above.

 

Albert Dock

 

Langdale

 

Castlerig

 

Obviously, at this resolution, the panorama is a bit lost, but at full size print, the technique works just fine.

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All right, but what's the best standalone application for us peasants who don't use PS, and don't want to?

 

The old man from the Age of the Widelux

 

 

Lars

 

Even though I now have Photoshop CS5

I still sometimes us Panorama Factory V5

and Arcsoft's Panorama Maker 5 Both are good, though

Panorama Factory offers the most control.

In addition, I've found Panorama Factory customer support

to be excellent.

I've used both since each was in version 2

 

Regards,

 

Sam

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All right, but what's the best standalone application for us peasants who don't use PS, and don't want to?

 

I've used Arcsoft Panoramamaker with mostly good results but switched to ICE (Microsoft freeware), which is excellent.

 

Luxembourg Grund, vertical panorama, 5 photos with M8 / Elmar 2.8/50.

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I found looking at Andy's work quite humbling, I'm a professional artist with enough manual dexterity to carve marble into recognisable human heads and draw just about anything I like and yet I think twice about doing handheld panoramas. Even worse I'll wait 'til all the new bits and pieces arrive before I get serious about it.

 

Clearly the human mind is a strange thing, mine will let me carve a perfect nose, but the second I lift a camera up to my face all sort of messages arrive telling me that I'll most likely mess it up, So instead of saying "this should be easy for me" I take out an insurance policy by buying a pile of equipment.

 

And again seeing Andy's pictures I ask myself why don't I just take the Xpan out more often.

 

I couldn't live without Ps Lr etc but then I use extensively to make a living, it is expensive but virtually unbeatable.

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I stand there on my own two feet, with the camera in manual mode (if it's an automatic). Keeping all the exposures the same is essential.

 

I then shoot the extreme left hand shot (in this case, in portrait orientation), turn the camera (not my body) through 1/3 shot width, then take another, and repeat as necessary.

 

Great photos, Andy, also many of the non-panoramic ones.

 

For those who want to try panoramas with a digital camera, it's also important to use either a preset or a manual WB.

 

The main problem with handheld is that the vertical is never maintained exactly, leading to upward or downward bending stitching with less available rectangular material.

 

Even with a simple Panasonic Lumix FZ5 it's possible to make stunning, highresolution extreme wideangle landscapes. Here's London, St. Catherines Dock, 9 handheld portrait photos taken the way Andy describes, stitched with ICE. The result would print as 2.4 meters wide and 0.9 meter high.

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Thanks Yogibear - very impressive pics too, I wouldn't have thought about WB much, for a shot like yours and just assumed that in Auto it would have remained the same but I suppose you could make quite a mess of things if the poor old camera was switching itself between daylight and cloudy as you clicked across several frames. So to really make sure everything is dead right the grey card to set ISO is probably the correct way to go.

 

Fairly impractical in the middle of a big city somewhere but for me out in the bush where I can have a vehicle load of stuff right next to me and plently of time its worth a serious thought.

 

What this thread appears to be doing is collecting quite a nice list of things to consider re:panos, with the most stiking revalation that for 8 out of 10 times hand held and no special equipment at all will provide stunning results.

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